The Power Tee
The humble tee shirt is one of the most versatile of all wardrobe items.
It can be plain and simple...
or brightly colored and embellished.
It can be feminine and flirty...
or all business.
Of course, the best tees are those that fit well and suit our body shape.
Darts and Fit
To create a pattern with no darts, the darts are rotated into the armhole and the armhole is redrawn.
For a C cup or larger, the dart will still try to form in the armhole.
Armhole Shape and Sleeve Cap
Armhole shape and sleeve cap will also influence fit.
Shirt below has the classic sleeve on the left side and the tee shirt sleeve on the right side. The choice here is between style and function/comfort.
Princess Panel tee below – has shoulder and armscye princess seams (the dart equivalents), a classic armhole with sleeve cap height decreased by 1 inch (2.5 cm), curved veeneck, and fit and flared sleeve.
Wild Ginger Stretch Gauge
General Guidelines for the Power Tee
Necklines for Broad Shoulders and Narrow Hips
Choose necklines and collars with vertical lines to visually narrow the shoulders – deep vee, deep scoop, keyhole, tab collar, built up, and vee neck collar.
Darts for Broad Shoulders and Narrow Hips
Choose darts and dart equivalents that create vertical lines to visually narrow the shoulders – shoulder princess, neckline princess, princess panel, blouson, waist darts, shoulder tucks.
Sleeves for Broad Shoulders and Narrow Hips
Choose sleeves with smooth sleeve caps and fullness at the elbow or wrist – flared, bell, cuffed with gathers, raglan, long circle, lantern, flared gored, fit and flared, bishop.
Necklines for Broad Hips and Narrow Shoulders
Choose necklines and collars with horizontal lines to visually widen the shoulders and de-emphasize the hips – wide shallow scoop, square, and sweetheart, wide diamond, shallow cowl, off the shoulder, sailor collar, and ruffled collar.
Darts for Broad Hips and Narrow Shoulders
Choose darts that create horizontal lines above the waist to visually widen the shoulders and de-emphasize the hips – armscye princess, side bust and side waist, armscye panel.
Sleeves for Broad Hips and Narrow Shoulders
Choose sleeves with large sleeve caps, short sleeves, and sleeves with no detail at the wrist – puffed, juliette, leg-o-mutton, tailored, petal, short flared, dolman, kimono, cap, short set in.
Necklines for Rectangular Shapes
Choose necklines and collars with horizontal lines to emphasize the face and minimize the waistline – notched collars, deep vee and scoop necks, vee neck collar, triangular and shawl collars.
Darts for Rectangular Shapes
Choose darts and style lines the slim the waistline and emphasize the shoulders and hips – shoulder, armscye, and neckline princess, princess panel, french darts, and color blocking.
Sleeves for Rectangular Shapes
Choose sleeves and cuffs with fullness and the top and bottom to add curves at the waistline – petal, circular, fit/flare, cap, leg o’mutton, flared gored.
For more great ideas on styles for your body shape, check out our Style Match program at the link below. Style Match - Body Shape and Image Analysis