Unbalanced Shoulder Measurements
Pattern Master 5 programs allow the use of a right and left chart for unbalanced shoulders.
The Sewing Guide has information on using two charts.
Draft to the highest shoulders.
Then pin the low shoulder starting at the shoulder point, tapering to the neck to determine changes to the Front Shoulder Slope and Back Shoulder Slope measurements.
Unbalanced Shoulders
Look at the black lines on the picture. Looking at the balance line drawn on the fitting dress, you can see it is dropping.
To determine the change to the slopes, start with .25 and pin from the shoulder point to the neck edge.
If the balance line is still not level (or at least close), repin increase the amount.
Once you determine the amount of change set the second chart. This example would be for the right chart.
Reduce the FSS and BSS each .5.
You may want to drop the armhole just a bit for this chart. The armhole level is determined by the CF and CB lengths which must be the same for both charts.
Shoulder pinned .25 inch.
Shoulder pinned .5 inch