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Annette wrote:

The first thing I did was to take my stretch fabric and wrap it around me (with the stretch going around my hips) until I had the "fit that I wanted". Then I measured the length of this fabric (say 40") and compared this with my actual hips (say 45"). By dividing 40 by 45, the answer was .888 which I rounded up to .9 (or 90) which gave me my horizontal scale 90% that I used later in PE.

I went into Style Editor and drafted a Surplice Blouse - see style sheet attached. No seam allowances. I allowed 1.5" ease at Hips, Waist and Bust. I saved my pattern and then opened it in PE. I scaled the pattern horizontal 90% and left vertical at 100%. Then I added seam allowances - details of these are printed on the pattern pieces. The only thing needed to finish off the blouse is 4 ties - 1.3/4" x 15" cut on lengthwise grain. The pattern shows a dart in the back but I didn’t sew it � I should have deleted it from the pattern but in my haste I forgot - sorry

Garment Type: Blouse Style: Blouse Closure: No Closure Front Neckline: Surplice Back Neckline: Jewel Hemline Sweep: Straight Hemline Shape: Straight Front Darts: No Darts Back Darts: No Darts Sideseam Shape: Fitted

Front Waist Darts: 0 Back Waist Darts: 1

Back Neckline Depth: 0.25 Neckline Width: 1 Neckline Point: 0

Finished Cb/Hem Length: 24 Hip Depth: 8

Sleeve Style: Set In Sleeve Underarm Seam: Tapered Sleeve Hemline Shape: Straight Sleeve Length: Three Qtr Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.58 Sleeve Underarm Length: 12 Sleeve Overarm Length: 18.632 Sleeve Hem Circumference: 10.5

Seam Allowance: 0 Hem Allowance: 1 Facing Width: 2

Chest Ease: 1.5 Waist Ease: 1.5 Hip Ease: 1.5





Kirsten wrote: Your knit top worked out so well and the fit of the knit is so good, that is something I am still working on, For the first time I understand your method of scaling.I am going to try it.

Please tell me why did you add ease and then scale down? Was that to get a bit of ease at waist and hips but still scale the shoulders. Did you scale the sleeve as well.

Annette wrote: It just made sense to me to add some ease when creating my pattern. Then I just scaled as I described. I've done exactly this with previous stretch garments and was happy with the result, so I just keep doing the same thing.

Yes, I scaled the sleeve too but that's because I like my stretch sleeves to fit snug like RTW but to accommodate my bicep measurement.