Shoulder and Neck Pattern Balance for V4 programs
The width of the neck opening should match front and back. The only exception is there may be a small difference if there is a lot of padding on the back neck area.
The front neck opening is the front shoulder width minus the shoulder length and the neck width default setting. The neck width default setting for the fitting garments is .25.
The back neck opening is about 1/3 of the neck circumference plus the neck width default setting for the fitting garment.
If the neck does not balance first check the Neck Circumference. This measurement is taken high and tight. Again, it only affect the back neck opening.
If the back neck opening appears to be correct, make the front neck opening wider by reducing the shoulder length.
You may need to do a combination of adjusting the neck circumference and the shoulder lengths to get a good neck opening.
Unbalanced Neck Opening
Neck Opening Patterns
An unbalanced neck can cause shifting in the neck area. A smaller front can pull the back neck up, above the bone at the nape of the neck.
The wide back will try to pull the front neck up as the front spreads to match the back neck opening.
As you move the neck most likely will shift.
Checking the Neck Balance on Show Full Screen
There are two ways you can check the neck balance on "Show Full Screen"
Click to "Show Full Screen."
Select the front bodice and Flip Vertical. Draw the front over the back, matching the center lines. You can see if the neck is balanced.
Another way it to use Line and Intersect.
Select Line and hold down the ctrl key so the line is straight. Draw a line from the neck shoulder point towards the center front. Do not worry about length. After drawing the line use Intersect to match the line to the Center line. Click on the line you drew and click on the center front line. Repeat for other pattern piece. Click on the finished line to read the length to see if the front and back match.
Checking Neck Balance on Show Full Screen
Shoulder Length and Front Neck Opening
The shoulder length measurement does not make the shoulder wider. It determines the front neck opening.
The width of the front shoulders is determined by the front shoulder width measurement.
Both of these examples have the same front shoulder width. Example 1 has a shoulder length of 5 and example 2 has a shoulder length of 6.
When you put them over each other you can see the total shoulder width stays the same. The front neck opening gets smaller.
To change the total shoulder width you must change the front shoulder width measurement.
Shoulder Length and Front Neck Opening
Shoulder and Neck Measurements Summary
1 - FSW minus SL determines front neck opening. (The defaults for the SL is .25 from the neck - so a SL of 4.75 will default to 4.5)
2 - FSW determines the total width of the shoulders - it places the shoulder point.
3 - Back neck opening is about 1/3 of the Neck measurement in the chart.
4 - Back shoulder dart is the BSW minus 1/3 neck, minus SL.
5 - If the back shoulder length drafts smaller than the SL measurement (minus default) then either the neck is too big or the BSW too small. The purpose of the dart is to true the BSW to the FSW.