Roll-Up Sleeve Pin Tuck shirt
ROLL-SLEEVE PINTUCK SHIRT
Jeannine created this project.
PROGRAM: PMB4
STYLE EDITOR PATTERN PIECES USED:
Front, Sleeves and Collar
Dresses
Style: Bodice, Bodice Length: Empire Waist, Front & Back Neckline: Jewel, No Yoke, Side Front Darts, No Back Darts
Sleeve: Set In, Underarm Seam: Tapered, Hemline Shape: Straight, Sleeve Length: ¾, No Cuffs, No Placket, Sleeve Length: 17, Hem Circ.: 13, Hem Width: 1
Collar: Dress Shirt, Points: 1, Spread: 1, Center Back Width: 1.5
Skirt: Darted, Hemline Sweep: Straight, No Hemline, Skirt Length: Mini, Skirt Settings: Length: 11
Front Dart Lengths: Upper:1, Lower: 3, Front Torso Darts: 1
Settings: Hem Allowance: 1, Ease: Chest: 3, Waist: 2, Hips: 3, Button Size: 5/8, Num. Buttons: 8
Back
Yoke:
Blouses, Style: Blouse, Yoke: Square, No Back Darts
Lower Back::
Blouses, Style: Blouse, Back Neckline: Jewel, Back Darts: Shoulder Princess
Back Dart Lengths: Upper: 1, Lower: 3, Back Waist Darts: 1
No Hemline, Hemline Shape: Curved
Settings: Hem Allowance: 1, Ease: Chest: 3, Waist: 2, Hips: 3, Blouse Length: 26
Please note: If a setting has not been included, it's because the program defaults were used.
PATTERN EDITOR STEPS:
Merge all three patterns. Keep: Dress Front Top, Dress Front Bottom, Dress Sleeves, Dress Collar, Blouse Back Yoke, Blouse Back Shoulder Princess Panels. Discard the rest.
Option: Keep Dress Facings and skip Button Placket Step.
Front:
Using Side Back Shoulder Princess Panel side seam measurements, adjust length of Front Bottom to match.
Overlay Side Back Shoulder Princess Panel over Front Bottom. Adjust Front Bottom hemline to match.
Back:
Overlay Back Yoke over Center Back Shoulder Princess Panel. Remove panel pattern where doubled by yoke. Repeat for side panel.
Adjust lower darts as necessary (mine were lengthened to 6" from waist point).
Front A-Line Empire Waist Adjustment:
Draw a vertical line from bust point on Front Top to lower seam line. Locate mid point. Draw a horizontal line from mid point to center front seam line. Mark location.
Create an arc from bottom side seam line corner to newly marked location. Adjust arc to create a slight curve. Create a new lower seam line using the arc line.
Overlay Front Top over Front Bottom, matching up side upper corners. Recreate Front Top upper seam line to match.
Front Pintucks:
Using finished hemline mark and the offset tool, create a second temporary hemline 1" above.
Measure width of front lower dart at seam. Divide by eight. Remove original dart.
Draw a straight horizontal line from side seam to center seam at narrowest point. Locate midpoint.
Create a vertical line running from upper seam line to temporary hemline 1" to the left of midpoint. Using the offset tool, create three more lines 2" apart, one to the left and two to the right. Using the Intersect tool, even up bottoms and tops of vertical lines with upper seam line and temporary hemline. Remove temporary hemline.
Using the Rotate by Units tool, apply the Dart/8 number to create a line opposite both sides of each vertical line.
Sleeve roll tab:
For a 2" sleeve roll: 6 5/8" x 1" with rounded top and button.
Button Plackets (optional):
Right: 1 ¼", Left: 7/8", both with 3/8" seam allowance
note: my pattern has already been adjusted to remove excess on center front.
Pocket (optional):
4" x 4" with rounded bottom corners and 1 ½" wide center inverted pleat.
Pocket Top: 4" x 3/8" wide double fold biased tape from self-fabric.
Pattern
DKNY Inspiration Shirt
DKNY Back View
Pin Tuck Shirt Back View
Pin Tuck Shirt Close Up