Getting Started with measurements
It is easiest and often most accurate to use Express Fit and let the program calculate the rest of the measurements.
To do this enter Express Fit numbers. Uncheck the boxes next to Custom Fit. Click on Calc Measure on left side bar.
If you feel you must enter some custom measurements only enter the Center Back and Biceps. Please let the program calculate the rest of the chart.
You may set the following defaults if desired:
Bust point,
Set Bust Point and Wrist Hem Circumference (Set Defaults, Sleeves. Long Sleeve Wrist Hem Circumference).
The program will calculate them if you do not set them.
Once you have your chart, set up the Dress Sloper.
Dress SloperWe are finding Bra Cup size in Australia running very different than US sizing. To double check take a high bust circumference above the full bust. 1 inch difference is an A, 2 a B, 3 a C, etc.
Here is a link to a site that we feel gives good bra sizing info. I may not be what you currently use, but we feel the size info works well with Wild Ginger programs.
International Bra Size CalculatorChecking the Pattern Master V4 Measurement chart
The relationship of the measurements is as important as the actual number. This is the check list used by Tech Support when looking at a chart. The chart is changed so it is in balance with these guidelines.
1 - The Front Shoulder slope is usually 2.75—3.25 inches longer than CF. 3 inches longer is a good start.
2 - The Back Shoulder Slope is usually 1-1.5 inches longer than CB. 1.25 is good start. Weight or a curved back can result in a BSS that is longer than the FSS.
3 - An average Center Back length is 15 - 16 inches. Padding or curving in the upper back will increase the length.
4 - The Back Shoulder Width is usually 14—15.5 inches average. Added weight will result in padding on the upper back and make the measurement longer.
5 - The Front Shoulder Width is usually .5—1 inch less than BSW. For added weight can be 2” less. Weight is added more to the back than the upper front.
6 - BSW minus about 1/3 neck should leave 2 Shoulder lengths plus a dart. The Shoulder Length is usually 4—5 inches. The back and front neck opening should match. An exception is when the back of the neck is padded, the back neck opening will be slightly wider than the front neck opening. The neck measurement only affects the back neck opening. It should be taken high and tight.
7 - Bra Cup Size determines the size of the side bust dart and the finished length of the Center Front. To get a larger or small side bust dart to up or down cup letters. The default side bust dart uptake is determined by the difference between the bust and the waist. If there is little difference, the dart will be too small. To increase the dart, increase the bust cup letter. You will also want to shorten the CF and FSS. Increasing the cup adds to the CF length, so shortening the number in the chart will keep the CF from getting too long. The front waist of the pattern should be level with the side.
8 - The program defaults the placement of the bust point using the Settings Bust Pt. Vert and Bust Pt. Horz. The Bust Pt. Vert is the distance from the neck shoulder point to the fullest part of the bust mound. The Bust Pt. Hort is the distance from bust point to bust point, divided in half. The defaults may be changed in Edit Defaults - Darts.
Dart Point Default Settings