Checking the Pattern Master V3 Measurement chart
The relationship of the measurements is as important as the actual number. This is the check list used by Tech Support when looking at a chart. The chart is changed so it is in balance.
1 - The Front Shoulder slope is usually 2.75—3.25 inches longer than CF. 3 inches longer is a good start.
2 - The Back Shoulder Slope is usually 1-1.5 inches longer than CB. 1.25 is good start. Weight or a curved back can result in a BSS that is longer than the FSS.
3 - The Back Shoulder Width is usually 14—15.5 inches average. Added weight will result in padding on the upper back and make the measurement longer.
4 - The Front Shoulder Width is usually .5—1 inch less than BSW. For added weight can be 2” less. Weight is added more to the back than the upper front.
5 - BSW minus 1/3 neck should leave 2 Shoulder lengths plus a dart. The Shoulder Length is usually 4—5 inches.
6 - Bust—Underbust check difference and compare to Bra size. A = 5 inch difference, B = 6, C = 7, D = 8, etc.
7 - Side Seam Length/ Waist Level—36” plus 1 inch for each inch of height over 60 inches. So for a height of 66 inches a side length of 42 is expected. This measurement is used by Calculate Measurements. It is also used to determing the default pants sloper length and to populate the dropdown menus.
8 - Crotch Depth/Crotch Length — Measure the Crotch Length on the full screen. Increase or decrease the Crotch Depth to get the needed length. The Crotch Length is information only and does not affect the draft.