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Pants Waist Circumference

Pants draft to the measurement in the Pants Waist Circumference Default/Setting. The first time a measurement chart is saved the waist measurement listed in the chart becomes the Default Pants Waist Circumference. If you change the waist measurement in the chart this also changes the Pants Waist Circumference in Defaults. If you use a different pants waist in defaults, go to Edit Defaults and enter the desired pants waist circumference.

Crotch Length

The Crotch Length measurements determines the crotch depth used in the program. The program adds the amount of crotch depth in ease to the crotch draft. This measurement is taken to a level natural waist.

Waist Drop

The position of the waist is adjusted using the Waist Drop settings. This settings take the waist up and down.

When dropping the waist reduce the dart length the amount of waist drop.

Check the waist circumference and enter the measurement in the Pants Waist Circumference box in settings.

The pants waist is the seam between the pants and the waistband. If you want the top of the waist band to be 1 inch below the waist, you would drop the pants waist 2 inches to allow for a 1 inch waist band.

For a facing finish 1 inch below the waist you would drop the waist 1 inch.

Usually low rise pants are dropped more in the front than in the back. In RTW pants you will often find the front is 1 1/2 inchs lower than the back. This allows you to sit and not have the pants go too low in back.

If you change your Waist in the measurement chart you need to change the low waist circumference in Pants Defaults if you use you natural waist measurement as your pants low waist circumference. Once you save your chart the natural waist becomes the default pants/skirt waist.

Inseam & Hem Circumference.

You may set the desired inseam and hem circumference for pants in Defaults. This may be changed in settings while drafting pants.

Hem Circumference—Knee Width

The Knee Width for the Slim Cut, Boot Cut and Flared leg drafts to the Hem Circumference plus the Knee Width setting. The amount of Knee Width is added to both sides of the grain line front and back. A Knee Width of 1 adds 4 inches to the knee width.

Hem Circumference—Boot Cut Leg

The Boot Cut does not draft to the Hem Circumference setting. It drafts the selected Hem Circumference plus the flare setting. The knee width is set separately.

Hem Circumference—Flared Leg

The Flare Setting determines how much is added to the front and back hem circumference based on the hem circumference setting. A flare setting of 1 adds one inch to the back hem circumference and 1 inch to the front. With a hem circumference setting of 15 the drafted circumference would be 17 inches.

A hem flare of 5 would add 5 inches to the front hem circumference and 5 inches to the back hem circumference for a total hem circumference of (15 + 10) 25 inches.

Hem circumference in settings plus 2 times the flare setting give the finished hem circumference.