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I had a questions from the Pants Design class why I usually don't use the Wild Cut or other pants settings. I think this is a good questions and am starting a little show and tell on pants and settings. To do this I also have to show the history of the WG pants drafts.

I opened V2 and thought it would be fun to see what the pants drafts and options looked like in 2000. This is all there was - no defaults or tab for other design options.







Here are the measurements that were used.

The front and back body depth choices of least - most for the body placed the side seam and adjusted crotch extensions.

The waist level was set using the front and back waist to floor.





















Here is a screen shot of V3 as it was release in 2003. You can see that the L and J were changed to Round and Flat and the Wild Cut was added.











































Here are what the different drafts looked like, with and without the Wild Cut.

I have also highlighted the crotch break in red. This is the place the straight segment from the waist ends and the curved part of the crotch seam starts.





With V3 original release I used the Wild Cut often. It was the easiest way to add height in the back without making other changes to the measurments, such as crotch depth and hip depth.





I also used the flat drafting, reducing the ease when using it. That is because the program drafts to the base - in this case the round crotch and then adds selected settings, the flat crotch which add more width below the hip depth. Looking back knowing what is to come - I think most had the hip depth high.











The January 2005 Update made changes in the way pants draft.

These are the measurements. The waist to floor front and back measurements and the body depth settings were removed from the measurement screen.

The pants waist was added to settings.



These were added to the settings.

For these pants the test pants are done to a level waist. The drops are added as needed in settings.

If I remember correctly the hip shape and the crotch tool was added after the first update.





























Here are the new pants. I have highlighted the crotch break, the place where the curve starts. You can see it now defaults to hip depth.

The round crotch shape is on the top and the flat on the bottom.

The Wild Cut is on the right side.

If you go back up to the original Wild Cut drafts, you will see the updated round looks like the old flat crotch shape.

I found I no longer use the WC to get more back length since this was now available in settings and didn't make other changes to the crotch shape.











































Why the change to the level waist?

This made it easier to control the hip curve and reduce the jopher look on the side.

This change also made us think of a way we could check the pants, since if they didn't come up to the natural waist they were not an accurate test of the chart.

The only check was to take a crotch length and then measure the crotch length to see if the pattern was going to be long enough. This worked very well for the the first workshop using the new V3 pant.

We then started asking for this when getting charts to check. We would measure on the full screen and increase the crotch depth to get the needed length.

This worked so we worked out a forumula that we could give the coach to check the crotch length and give a suggested change to the crotch depth. The crotch length was added to the chart at that point. It only triggered a message from the coach. (The measurement coach was "let go" when V4 was released)

As a note, the crotch extensions in the program are a forumula based on the hip circumference. This is standard in pattern drafting.

In 2005 we also went to on line fitting classes so this created a need for a way to mark the pants that the fit could be evaluated with a picture. At this point we started asking that the hip depth be drawn on the fitting before sewing.

To check the fit this hip lines needs to be level front to back and side to side.

Pants Fitting Guide

This article in the Wiki shows this hip line and how it can be used to check pants fit.

We also started asking for circumferences 4, 6 and 8 inches below the waist to help place the hip. We found most were placing it high.

The hip needs to be as close to your "seat", what you sit on as possible as that is where you need sitting ease.

The desired fit in the upper ab should be smooth.

The hip depth can be below your fullest depth and still give you enough room because 2.5 inches of ease is added.

A review of charts made us realized that 8 was an expected hip depth. Commercial patterns and RTW put this at 8 - 9 inches down from the natural waist.





Using all the knowledge from fitting pants in V3 some changes were made to the V4 pants. We have found this gives most a good fit from the start and also makes it possible for us to suggest any changes, because we know the start point.

Crotch Length has become a working measurement in the program. We have found that pants now come to the natural waist almost every time. It's also very easy to see if this measurment is not correct. We can also look at a chart and based on weight know if the number is close.

Weight plays a important part in the crotch length measurement because it includes the tummy and tush.

Hip Depth is now a default. The programs uses 8, but this can be changed. The first pants should be made using the default of 8.

Users have reported that even if their largest circumference is higher that putting the largest circumference in the hip circumference and using the default of 8 gives a good draft.

We ask that you draw the hip line on with a marker so it will show in a pictures. This also lets you look in the mirror and see if you hip is level.

Anytime you make a pant it is a good idea to mark the hip level for fitting purposes. This is easily done with the narrow tape that quilters use and is easily removed when you have finished your pants.

Knee depth is now a design setting. It determines the leg break for slim cut, flared and boot cut pants.

The program defaults it to 20. This measurement does not affect the pants sloper because the leg is tapered and does not have a knee break. You can use the default to know what knee depth you want to put in defaults for pants.

The Waist Drop/Raise settings leg you make minor adjustments to the waist level without affecting anything else in the draft.

Pants Waist is now a default. It's important to remember the natural waist circumference is put in the defaults the first time a chart is saved. After that the pants waist is a default and is not affected by any changes in the measurement chart.

The minor change options are still in the program but I am finding they are not needed. It's easy to add a setting - almost impossible to take it from a program.

It is also important to remember that fabric will make a big difference in how pants fit, but's that a story for another time.