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By Helen S.

Here are the pattern pieces as drafted:

I knew there was no way the garment would resemble the drawing since I have a modest C cup. So it was necessary to modify it.

Steps to modify the pattern:

(I am including the keyboard shortcuts for each step.)

1. My default is to bring grouped patterns into the Pattern Editor, so my first step was to copy the front pattern piece (CO) so that I could always start over, and to save the pattern with a different name.

2. Select one of the front pattern pieces and zoom to that piece (ZS). While still selected, ungroup the pattern piece (GX)

3. Select and delete the grain line

4. Select the line tool (LI) and draw a line connecting the midpoint on the cutting line at the hem and the midpoint on the cutting line at the cowl facing.

5. Since the fold line for the cowl does not already have a center point, we will intersect (IN) that line to the center line, removing the right hand length.

6. Now we need to cut (BR) each line crossed by the center line. Reselect the cut tool after each cut by pressing the space bar. OR you could use the intersect tool (IN) as we did in step 5 to shorten each line.

7. Now delete the right hand side of the front.

8. Draw a line (LI) from the underarm point to the center front line. Intersect that line (IN) with the center front line and then break (BR) the center front line on the intersection point.

9. Save the file with a new name.

10. Now you have to decide how full you want the cowl. I chose to increase the width at the neck by about 6 inches, so as a visual guide I located a point (LP) at 3 inches from the center front at the cowl fold line.

11. Select entire upper front with the box selection tool (SC) and then select the rotate object tool (RO). The pivot point is the underarm seam line point and the further away from that point you move your cursor, the better control you will have over rotating the object. I eyeballed the rotation until the intersection of the fold line and the center line was approximately over the 3 inch point on the original fold line. This did not need to be really exact. If I needed to be exact, I would have made a line connecting that 3 inch point to the point at the intersection of the center line and the under arm line. Then measure that angle and use rotate angle instead of rotate object.

12. Now connect the center front line and the cowl facing cut line using the intersect tool (IN). Group the pattern piece (GP), and you are ready to print.





© Helen S. April 21, 2011