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The is a great way to use the facing with the fly front opening creating a built in waist band.

Select in Drafter Slacks—Fly Front Closure—Facing Pocket—Western

If a lower waist is desired drop the waist to where you want the top edge of the finished pants.

My Settings
Slim Cut Leg—16 hem, knee .5
Facing 1.5”
Darts - 2 front and 2 back
Trouser Pocket—Depth 7, Opening 2—Bag depth as desired.
Inseam—Desired length.
Hip Ease - 2"

Fabric
I used a light twill. Other choices would be a bottom weight woven pants fabric such as Lightweight Denim, Poplin, Twill, Linen, Gabardine, Wool. Wool Blends.




Yardage
Calculate needed yardage in the Yardage Calculator. For plaids use a plaid layout.


Notions
7 inch zipper
Woven Fusible Interfacing

I fuse the interfacing to the fabric and then cut out the facing pattern pieces. This uses more interfacing but cuts very accurate pieces.

Pattern Preparation

Tape fly to pattern front to create a cut on fly.

Back Facing—remove CB seam allowance and cut on fold.

Front Facing—Extend CF of Facing 1 inch. This will allow the facing to extend to the under side of the fly zipper. This extension is not exact and will be adjusted during construction. You can do this in PE with Offset and Intersect, but it’s faster to do with a pencil before cutting out the facing pattern piece.

Marking the Pattern

Mark Darts - I use snips in the edge of the fabric and a pin at the dart point, but use the method you like best.

Use a short snip in the fabric to mark the CF of the front between pants and cut on fly.

Sewing Instructions

1 - Sew CB crotch seam from waist to crotch. Stop sewing 2 inches before the crotch point.

2 - Sew the CF crotch seam from 2 inches from the crotch point to 5/8th inch above the bottom of the cut on fly.

3 - Place a straight pin at the CF snip mark pointing down the CF line.

4 - Open pants front with right side up. I place the fly so the top stitched side will be on the left side of the pants. Press the CF seam.

5 - Turn pants to wrong side. Press the right side of the cut on fly back 5/8 inch.

6 - You have now prepared the Fly for the zipper. Mark down from the top edge the amount of the seam allowance plus 1.5 inches. I use 5/8 seam allowances so I mark down 2 1/8th inches.

7 - On the under side of the fly place the zipper stop at the mark. Pin in place with a couple of pins. Edge stitch close to the zipper coil edge.

8 - Fold the zipper to the other side of the fly. Pin in about 3 places through the zipper and a single layer of the fly. Stitch down the center of the zipper. You will finish the fly top stitching later.

9 - Sew front and back darts. Press.

10 - Place pocket front over upper side of pants front. Sew along the facing at what will be the pocket opening. Trim fabric from pants. Turn front pocket to inside. Under stitch or top stitch as desired.

11 - Place pocket back in place. Pin the back pocket to the front pocket matching the edges. Sew the pocket edges. Baste the pocket at the pants waist.

12 - Sew front and back legs together at inseam. Press open.

13 - Match crotch seam. Finish sewing crotch seam. Reinforce if desired. Trim to 3/8th inch.

14 - Sew side seam. Press to the back. This lets the pocket lay smoother.

15 - Sew the side seam of the facing. Do a clean finish at the bottom. (1) Turn up the bottom edge the amount of the seam allowance and press well. Trim to 1/4th turn up on the inside. Or (2) Trim off seam allowance and serge or finish with a binding such as Seams Great.

16 - Pin facing in place. Open out the folded part of the fly. Don’t worry that the front edge does not match the open fly. Sew facing to top edge of pants. Clip and trim seam.

17 - With facing still folded to the front and the top fly extension open, sew down the press line for the top fly. For the under fly sew down the press line at above the zipper. Turn to the inside. Trim excess fabric to allow for a sharp turned corner.

18 - Turn facing to the back. Under stitch as close as possible to the folder corners.

19 - Pin facing in place along lower edge. Edge stitch along the lower edge of the facing. You have now finished the waist.

20 - Pin a paper fly in place to use as a guide, and stitch along the edge to secure the top fly.

21 - I edge stitched the pocket edge from facing stitching to top edge. This is optional.

22 - Sew a pants closure above zipper.

Nancy used the fly front facing on a skirt.