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Suggestions please....
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-19 5:31 PM (#74773)
Subject: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Friends,

I have a fitting/ease choice dilemma. I have made 2 semi-fitted jackets -- one in PMB3 and one in PMB4 (which seems to draft the same as PMB5, please correct me if I am wrong). My PMB3 jacket is very comfortable and I thought it was a good fit (ease B-5, W-3, H-5), so I used the same ease settings for the PMB4/5 jacket. When checking shoulder pad placement for the PMB4/5 jacket, I realized that I had tons of extra fabric at the back chest width, so I lengthened the back darts upward 2 inches and this took out "some" of the problem, but since the fabric was a stripe, it accentuated every flaw and the jacket was put together (and tailored out the whaz) past the point of no return -- I wasn't going to rip it apart -- but I can alter the pattern/start from scratch for the future.

There is too much fabric across the middle of the back to the armscye notch mark. I know that fabric choice can make a difference and the PMB3 jacket is in the classic lapel style with back shoulder and bust darts and is an embroidered poly microsuede. The PMB4/5 jacket is a classic lapel style without the back shoulder or bust darts and is a 100% cotton. Upon looking at pics taken by DH, I can see that the poly does "hide" the problems of the excess fabric, but the cotton gives undue attention to the flaw with the stripe (and from the back looks much better on a hanger than on me). So... I am asking for suggestions on how to get a good fit across the back. The front fits just fine. I'm attaching pics of the back of the jackets and back pattern pieces in case they help (keeping fingers crossed that the technology works for me). The patterns, when stacked on top of one another have the same measurements --

Across the back to the armscye notch mark -- 14.25 inches
Back chest width -- 19.25 inches
Back armhole length -- 9.9 inches

I don't have a pic of me in my sloper as I am tweaking it, but my local PMB colleagues assure me that the fit is good across the back.

So, is this a sloper fitting problem, or an ease choice problem? Suggestions welcome!!!

Thanks!!

Julie



(IMG_1860 (2).JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_1860 (2).JPG (18KB - 3 downloads)
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-19 5:33 PM (#74774 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
And now for the rest of the pics....



(IMG_1857 (2).JPG)



(IMG_1858 (2).JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_1857 (2).JPG (76KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments IMG_1858 (2).JPG (76KB - 2 downloads)
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Susan Palmer
Posted 2011-04-19 6:25 PM (#74778 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....



Veteran

Posts: 164
1002525
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Hi Julie,

Is the poly (flowers?) jacket back cut on the fold?

Of the two jackets, the poly does appear to fit better, but I can't imagine that the cotton stripe fabric would have stretched so much in the waist area as the shoulders look nice like the poly.

As for the cotton stripe I'm wondering if you would consider taking the waist darts out and letting the jacket have a looser, "boyfriend jacket" look.

Susan

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-04-19 6:49 PM (#74781 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Looks like shoulder slope difference.

That can cause the extra folds in back.

Without the summaries/Design sheets for both and the charts I can't give a better answer.

Also is one without a shoulder dart or was it rotated into the armhole.

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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-19 7:24 PM (#74782 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Yes, the poly jacket is cut on the fold. The striped jacket does not have a shoulder dart. I don't know that letting out the back darts would really help, but rather accentuate the boxiness and I really did want this jacket fitted. Karen, will try to get the docs to you -- sometimes I have trouble with that....

Julie
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Cristina
Posted 2011-04-19 10:24 PM (#74789 - in reply to #74782)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 374
1001001002525
In the striped jacket, I would modify the jacket sloper
to replace the back waist darts with sideseam darts
to consume that extra waving fabric
and to offer more ease over hips.

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2011-04-19 10:25 PM
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-20 9:45 AM (#74797 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
All right, here's my attempt at the summaries/design sheets. The Classic Lapel Jacket is the Floral, poly jacket and the Classic Lapel Jacket 2 is the striped cotton jacket. Here goes....



Attachments
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Attachments Classic_Lapel_Jacket_Julie_DesignSheet.dxf (41KB - 8 downloads)
Attachments Classic_Lapel_Jacket_2.las (26KB - 6 downloads)
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-20 9:57 AM (#74798 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Apologies that the style sheet for the striped jacket (Classic Lapel Jacket 2) simply refused to upload anfter at least 6 tries. Also, re: fit at the hips, the floral jacket was unbuttoned and the striped jacket was buttoned, so that may influence how it appears to fit. The question still remains, is the semi fitted amount of ease simply too much for my small body frame?? Is there somethig else I should be thinking about to solve this? Keep those suggestions coming!!

Thanks.

Julie
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-04-20 10:29 AM (#74799 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I need both - you can send to me at support@wildginger.com

But looking at the picture the answer is the angle of the shoulder.  It is higher for the stripe jacket making it droop in the body.

Looking at the patterns the FSS is an inch longer.  Since it can't stick up it fits down to your shoulder and it's angle, putting extra fabric (droop) in the back.

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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-04-20 1:43 PM (#74803 - in reply to #74773)
Subject: RE: Suggestions please....


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Yes, the FSS is an inch higher for the striped jacket, but the length of the armscye for both jackets is the same. Please explain how the shoulder slope would make a difference if the armscye is the same...

Julie
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