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side seam zipper
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-03-31 2:37 PM (#74150)
Subject: side seam zipper


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I need to put a side seam zipper in a sheer lined dress. The fabric is a light colored woven so I know i must someway have the zipper hidden by the lining. Where can I find clear concise instructions to put in this zipper.
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ChristineBrown
Posted 2011-04-01 10:11 AM (#74203 - in reply to #74150)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


Generally this means slip stitching the zip to the lining, but here's a link from Threads:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4971/a-shortcut-to-great-lining...
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-04-01 11:02 AM (#74205 - in reply to #74150)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


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Thank you Christine. I will print that out. I'm not quiet sure how that will work since I need the lining to hide the zipper from view through the sheer fabric but I will read and re-read and maybe I will begin to comprehend.

Edited by Grandma C 2011-04-01 11:02 AM
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julie w
Posted 2011-04-01 6:40 PM (#74220 - in reply to #74150)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


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Grandma C, what if you make the lining an underlining ie baste the two layers together and then insert the zipper to both layers or will this make the zipper seam to thick?
No expert, just thinking aloud.
Julie
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-04-02 11:18 PM (#74287 - in reply to #74150)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


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Julie W., I have thought of that but I hesitate because I have the lining nearly constructed. Guess I will practice the frog stitch tomorrow and do just that. I am sure I have had RTW though with the lining separate except for the zipper and the other usual attachment places. I had 2 voil dresses as when I was a teen and I seem to remember the lining was actually an interlining. Oh well!!!!!!!! Thanks everyone for the advice. I know that Threads article will help me and I will definitely read the/ or some sewing instructions when doing something I havn't done before.
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-04-03 2:00 AM (#74292 - in reply to #74150)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


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I copied this paragraph from, http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=1331.0 ,on sewing silk chiffon but it explains my delima with this sheer fabric.

"The pattern calls for a zipper in the CB - I put it there, then promptly ripped it out and put it in the side seam. The show through was horrible. At least it's shorter and less noticeable in the side seam. If I were to do it again (I'm not going to take it apart again), I'd figure out a way to get that china silk lining between the zipper tape as there is such a color contrast."

I guess the inner linning is the only way. Will it pucker as I sew because of the layers of slippery fabric??
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-04-03 8:57 AM (#74303 - in reply to #74292)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper



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Just curious, but did you use interfacing under the zipper area? I always do this step because it stabilizes the fabric and keeps show through at bay.

Susan

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Grandma C
Posted 2011-04-03 9:17 PM (#74322 - in reply to #74303)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper


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Susan I havn't gotten that far yet because I know I have a problem to solve first. Shouldn't I use a fusable sheer tricot innerfacing Just on the seam allowances in the zipper area.
I have received instructions for inserting the zipper treating the zipper area of the lining and fashion fabric as one unit but still having the rest of the lining attached only at the usual places. It was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks everyone for the help.

Edited by Grandma C 2011-04-03 9:27 PM
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-04-03 10:40 PM (#74325 - in reply to #74322)
Subject: RE: side seam zipper



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Grandma C,

I usually use interfacing just in the zipper area of the seam allowance but if show-through is your problem then you can use a very lightweight, sheer interfacing in the entire bodice or just the back bodice if that is where the zipper will be. I know that you have decided to put the zipper in the side, so you might want to think about using a sheer interfacing as an underlining for the entire bodice. If the directions that you now have will make it work without this step, then by all means follow those directions.

Susan

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