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Another stripes question....
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-27 9:21 PM (#72895)
Subject: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Ok, me and yet another question. This one has to do with welt pockets and a striped jacket. I marked the placement of my welt pockets prior to sewing my front darts. Now, given the curve created by the dart, if I follow the original parallel to grain welt pocket placement, it will look "wrong". I'll attempt to attach a photo (no promises it will work). Suggestions welcome.

Julie
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-27 9:28 PM (#72897 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Trying to attach picture again....
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-27 9:29 PM (#72898 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Trying to attach picture again....
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Sewhappy
Posted 2011-02-28 12:11 AM (#72904 - in reply to #72898)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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I admire your tenacity!
Keep trying, I'm holding my breath.
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-28 10:38 AM (#72917 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Trying to attach picture, yet again (third time a charm??). When trying last night, the screen said something about the server having issues, so I'm hoping the bright light of morning will allow the pic to work this time. I did make it smaller (although by a different method than usual -- couldn't make that open to work). I'm considering whether to scrap the single dart and do 2 narrower darts hoping that the newly found "tilt" won't be as prominent. Here goes...

Julie
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-28 10:39 AM (#72918 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Posts: 158
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Trying to attach picture, yet again (third time a charm??). When trying last night, the screen said something about the website not being able to display the page, so I'm hoping the bright light of morning will allow the pic to work this time. I did make it smaller (although by a different method than usual -- couldn't make that open to work). I'm considering whether to scrap the single dart and do 2 narrower darts hoping that the newly found "tilt" won't be as prominent. Here goes...

Julie
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-28 10:42 AM (#72919 - in reply to #72918)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Posts: 158
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
And again...



(IMG_1826 (2).JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_1826 (2).JPG (72KB - 2 downloads)
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2011-02-28 10:45 AM (#72920 - in reply to #72919)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Julie, just put the welt on the bias. And don't obsess. (I know, easy for me to say!)
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-28 10:52 AM (#72922 - in reply to #72920)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Karen,

I would, except that I've already cut and interfaced the welt pieces so that the stripes are vertical rather than horizontal and I thought I'd try it with this jacket. Saw a cool cheater trick from Sandra Betzina -- you machine baste your welts at the center which allows you to match stripes, patterns, etc. then when you press them open, they are ready to insert into a turned out welt pocket -- viola, perfectly matched (or contrasting) welt pockets! Yes, I'm obsessing over striped fabric -- and making this jacket is therapy for me at the moment... Will have to think about it.

Julie
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Barbie
Posted 2011-02-28 11:15 AM (#72923 - in reply to #72922)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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I would break that big dart into two smaller darts.
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Sewhappy
Posted 2011-02-28 12:22 PM (#72928 - in reply to #72922)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Julie,
Do I understand correctly that your trying to align the vertical stripes in your jacket to vertical stripes in the welt 'lips'?
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-02-28 12:38 PM (#72929 - in reply to #72928)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Dale,

Yep. OK, I know it won't be an "exact" match by the time I get to the one end -- and I think that breaking the dart into 2 smaller ones is the way to go here -- but yes, that's the general idea. I'm thinking I can align the welt stripes closely with the majority of the stripes on the jacket -- was something that Saville Row tailors used to do with their own clothing and when customers got wind of it, they wanted theirs to look that way too rather than having horizontal stripes as was standard. I went to a seminar by Sandra Betzina where she showed multiple welt pockets -- not exactly traditional either -- some matched, some were definate contrasts -- she had welt openings that were triangles, circles, various shapes, but the welts themselves were esquisite -- her secret -- baste them together for whatever "match" you wanted for the pattern in the welt fabric, press open so that the lips were centered, lay it into the welt opening as desired, pin and stitch. Really slick technique, and for something like this stripe, something I can definately do a somewhat respectable "match" for. Or, at least that's the idea -- it may end up being an exercise in frustration or complete folly by the time I'm done. I'm tailoring the whaz out of a $5/yd fabric jacket for therapy at the moment to keep from going stir crazy re: serious family illness I can't really do anthing to help. Let's me test a new pattern and brush up on some skills and keep from looking at the clock.

Julie
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Sewhappy
Posted 2011-02-28 4:24 PM (#72937 - in reply to #72929)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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That sounds like a great seminar. I was recently considering if I should purchase a subscription to her online tutorials.
I hope this works out for you and gives you some needed distraction.
I wish you good luck and less stress for you and your family.
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Glendad
Posted 2011-02-28 8:55 PM (#72953 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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I like your challenge.  It sounds like something I would enjoy doing.  I have one thought.  Looking at your dart I think it is going to be difficult matching the stripes on both side of the dart.  I think you are going to have to choose to match one side and let the other side be off a little bit.  To keep both pockets looking the same you may have to adjust the opening slightly so that the stripes line up.

Do you have any extra fabric to cut the lapels on the bias?

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Trish
Posted 2011-02-28 11:57 PM (#72960 - in reply to #72923)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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I agree with Barbie...divide the dart into 2 darts, and make sure that their size doesn't change the rhythm of the stripes.  You can sew them slightly smaller or larger than designed so that the stripe pattern flows nicely.
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Julie in OH
Posted 2011-03-01 5:47 PM (#72979 - in reply to #72960)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Posts: 158
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Here's what I did. I replaced the single dart with 2 narrower ones -- gave a cleaner look and made the welt area look less "wrong". As for the pockets -- the vertical stripes weren't going to work without looking a bit "wonky" to one side or the other. So.... I decided to use the "designer's perogative" and went with bias welts pointing toward the center front. The result is below. Thanks for all of the suggestions and I hope this inspires someone. Now, off to sew some more....

Julie



(IMG_1828 (2).JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_1828 (2).JPG (43KB - 4 downloads)
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Sewhappy
Posted 2011-03-01 6:07 PM (#72980 - in reply to #72979)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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This looks fantastic!
Great solution, the stripes pointing to the center gives it a smart look.
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Neednewduds
Posted 2011-03-01 6:13 PM (#72981 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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PERFECT. I have not been reading this thread. Told myself I wasn't about to match any stripes, checks plaids..Life is too short at this point. Sure glad I changed my mind, Now this is something I will save to try myself later. THANK YOU. Very good job. I love those little touches that adds so much to a garment.
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2011-03-01 7:28 PM (#72982 - in reply to #72979)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....


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Gorgeous!
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Belinda
Posted 2011-03-01 8:35 PM (#72983 - in reply to #72979)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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Wow fantastic result! Don't you love the internet sewing community? Always there with wonderful ideas and suggestions to make sure our garments turn out perfectly.
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kirsten
Posted 2011-03-02 12:31 AM (#72988 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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Thank you for posting this question and then your results.

I absolutely love stripes, I am not sure if I would have attempted the pockets, now I am going to try in a few months when our winter arrives.
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magenta
Posted 2011-03-02 2:57 AM (#72990 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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That looks fantastic. What a clever solution! Will keep this in my memory bank.

Sarah
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ambro0
Posted 2011-03-02 5:04 AM (#72992 - in reply to #72979)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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Great result!! Looks very professional. Thanks for sharing.
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PCMomwad
Posted 2011-03-04 11:18 PM (#73021 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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That looks fab!  The angles of those welts are a great design feature, and changing the one dart into two was worth every....ripped...stitch.

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TessainGabriola
Posted 2011-03-05 12:02 AM (#73023 - in reply to #72895)
Subject: RE: Another stripes question....



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That is gorgeous!! Makes me want to make a jacket with welts like that!
Tessa
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