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Mens Shirt Sewalong?
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dotmoll
Posted 2011-02-02 4:28 AM (#72272)
Subject: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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I decided that I would sacrifice some rare sewing time this month and join the Patternreview men's shirt sewalong. I'm going to use TailorMade, though it's just possible I'll use a PMB5 draft (!!).

No problems making rough n ready stuff for all my men, but I dither over options when it comes to "nicer" menswear - don't have the courage to trust my instincts the way I do with womens' garments.

Anybody want to join me making a man's or menswear-styled shirt, considering things like collar settings, depth of sleeve placket, width of cuffs/button plackets etc?
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StMike
Posted 2011-02-02 7:21 AM (#72274 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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I would like to join in. Where is the "Sewalong?" How do I get signed up? I have made 7 LS mens dress shirts with TM and there are a lot of tricks to get the results you want. That is, I have made a whole lot of mistakes and learned from them. Could still profit from more experience with the program.
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rosemary
Posted 2011-02-02 8:57 AM (#72275 - in reply to #72274)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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StMike - 2011-02-02 6:21 AM

I would like to join in. Where is the "Sewalong?" How do I get signed up? I have made 7 LS mens dress shirts with TM and there are a lot of tricks to get the results you want. That is, I have made a whole lot of mistakes and learned from them. Could still profit from more experience with the program.


What's an LS mens dress shirt?
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StMike
Posted 2011-02-02 1:57 PM (#72286 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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LS = Long Sleeve.
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rosemary
Posted 2011-02-02 2:50 PM (#72288 - in reply to #72286)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Thanks, StMike.
The pattern review site is here http://sewing.patternreview.com but I could not see the men's shirt sewalong info - maybe you need to be a member which I'm not - although it's a very useful site.

I ought to join you all - would like to make one and haven't used tailor made in a while.
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Nancy Arnold
Posted 2011-02-02 4:49 PM (#72290 - in reply to #72286)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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I think she may be referring to the "Male Pattern Boldness" Shirt Sew Along: http://www.malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/

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dotmoll
Posted 2011-02-02 5:16 PM (#72291 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Yes Nancy, that's the one...though I thought we could have a thread here to consider the TM/PMB issues as we go.

I'm planning on making a long-sleeved shirt to make sure I get sleeve and cuff worries sorted out.

The patternreview thread showed a yoke plus princess seaming/shoulder gores look that I see OFTEN on Japanese menswear.

With this kind of yoke, I really wonder about how deep to make it in the back. Ideally, I want to incorporate the shoulder dart (or some of it) in the lower seamline of the yoke/upper seamline of back body pieces, as that's what I see in a very interesting close-fitting '70s shirt pattern I have.
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rosemary
Posted 2011-02-02 5:36 PM (#72292 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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I'll likely keep mine simple!
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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-02 8:38 PM (#72293 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Hi,
would you like to be more precise in what you need to draw the shirts? For example, give us an approximate sketch, some general measurements, and when you set for a pattern consider me to be the one who makes the grading for your pattern ( I'm using Coordonate Grading Cameo) and it's my pleasure to join such a project.

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2011-02-02 8:39 PM
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dotmoll
Posted 2011-02-03 6:21 AM (#72294 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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I wasn't thinking of choosing just one design...shall we say "neat casual/everyday business" long-sleeved shirt with button front and collar, designed as you wish?

How does that suit other people?
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magenta
Posted 2011-02-03 6:25 AM (#72295 - in reply to #72294)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Suits me. If i can find some suitable fabric in the stash, I'm in!
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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-04 11:47 AM (#72309 - in reply to #72294)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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To start a pattern we need some measurements, send some main measurements to apply in the style we design.
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StMike
Posted 2011-02-04 12:02 PM (#72311 - in reply to #72309)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Cristina - 2011-02-04 10:47 AM

To start a pattern we need some measurements, send some main measurements to apply in the style we design.


I can send my chart but it will have to wait until this evening as it is on another computer.
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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-04 4:09 PM (#72313 - in reply to #72311)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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You can send the text file of the chart
or just the 5 main measurements:
center back
chest
waist
hip
pant overseam (waist-floor)
and with these we'll get a proportional sloper.

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2011-02-04 4:26 PM
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StMike
Posted 2011-02-04 5:59 PM (#72318 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Here is my Shirt Chart; it is a separate chart for dress shirts only. My neck actually measures 15.75" but if I leave it that way in the chart, the neck opening is way too big. So, I have to trick the program and use a much smaller neck measurement. Also, to get the front and back neck balanced I had to fool around with the shoulder lengths and back widths until the front and back neck opening was balanced.

I don't know what a pants over seam is and have never used that? My inseam length is 31" or 32" depending on the crotch depth and where I put the waist, which is usually about 2 inches below my belly button whereas my natural waist is about 1" above the belly button. In the chart, I have set the crotch length so as to approximately hit 2" below my belly button.

St Mike Chart:

Chest Circumference: 42

Back Shoulder Width: 17.5

Neck Circumference: 14.5

Natural Waist: 39

Hip Circumference: 41.5

Crotch Length: 28.5

Height: 71.5

Weight: 190

Center Front Length: 15.5

Front Shoulder Width: 17

Front Shoulder Slope: 18.5

Shoulder Length: 6

Center Back Length: 17.75

Back Shoulder Slope: 19

Bicep Circumference: 14.5



Edited by StMike 2011-02-04 6:00 PM
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rowena___.
Posted 2011-02-04 6:13 PM (#72319 - in reply to #72293)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Location: music city, USA
Cristina - 2011-02-02 6:38 PMHi,would you like to be more precise in what you need to draw the shirts? For example, give us an approximate sketch, some general measurements, and when you set for a pattern consider me to be the one who makes the grading for your pattern ( I'm using Coordonate Grading Cameo) and it's my pleasure to join such a project.Cristina

the forum users will all be drafting their own patterns, using whichever WG product they prefer.  these patterns will draft to their custom measurements within the program.  grading is not required.

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rowena___.
Posted 2011-02-04 6:22 PM (#72320 - in reply to #72291)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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dotmoll - 2011-02-02 3:16 PMYes Nancy, that's the one...though I thought we could have a thread here to consider the TM/PMB issues as we go.I'm planning on making a long-sleeved shirt to make sure I get sleeve and cuff worries sorted out.The patternreview thread showed a yoke plus princess seaming/shoulder gores look that I see OFTEN on Japanese menswear.With this kind of yoke, I really wonder about how deep to make it in the back. Ideally, I want to incorporate the shoulder dart (or some of it) in the lower seamline of the yoke/upper seamline of back body pieces, as that's what I see in a very interesting close-fitting '70s shirt pattern I have.

start by slashing the pattern from about the middle of the back armscye, perpendicular to the grainline and all the way to the center back, making the yoke seamline.  then extend the center-most dart leg to the yoke line, slash, and close the dart.

this will give a working pattern to use for fitting purposes.  you can adjust from there as needed.

in the first edition of our book, the yoke lesson begins on page 49.  i'm not sure where it is now, i haven't seen the latest printings so it might be on a different page.  if you have that book you can see the steps for the front bodice yoke.

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dotmoll
Posted 2011-02-04 8:05 PM (#72323 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Thank you for that! I notice that "half way" is about where the body/sleeve alignment box and circle fall...not having any idea, I tended to end the yoke a bit above that, about half-way between that mark and the end of the shoulder dart.

By the way, I assume the yoke should have some relationship to the shoulder-blade, coming at least down to the "outside" (narrower) end of the shoulder blade. It seems that "halfway down" would almost cover the "inside" (wider) end of the shoulder blade. That's very deep for a modern shirt, isn't it?

The TM "square yoke" defaults to roughly the same depth as the default shoulder dart....which is about a quarter of the armhole depth, halfway between the alignment box and the shoulder point.
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StMike
Posted 2011-02-04 8:48 PM (#72326 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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The depth of the yoke in the back depends on the shape of the back. I learned that the hard way. The yoke bottom seam should be approximately where the perpendicular curvature of the back is at its greatest. That will allow the shirt to hang down smoothly from the lower yoke seam across the back. If the yoke is too shallow, the shirt back will billow out below the seam forcing open the pleats as it goes over the curve of the back; if the yoke is too deep, then the back of the shirt looks out of balance.
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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-04 10:40 PM (#72327 - in reply to #72319)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Edited by Cristina 2011-02-04 10:55 PM
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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-04 10:40 PM (#72328 - in reply to #72319)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Each software has its own way to make patterns, its own formulas to calculate the lines and arcs, so I had cases when I modified a body measurement to get a proportional pattern - and I also found on the internet authors who advise how much to adjust one body measurement to get the slopers well done.
And this pant overseam maybe it has its own purpose somewhere deep in software background formulas - that's why I need it.
I'll set your measurements in my charts and I'll let you know about the proportion of the sloper that I get, and then decide about a style
Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2011-02-04 10:54 PM
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dotmoll
Posted 2011-02-04 11:42 PM (#72333 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Thanks, Mike, it's really useful to have a shirt-wearing AND sewing POV. It would be worth doing a "yoke muslin" or cut-out to confirm where the yoke seam falls on the wearer's body.

Overseam - is Cristina maybe talking about the outseam (sideseam from waist to floor)? Only problem with this measurement is that it has more variables than with the inseam measurement - waist level, waistband width, ease, and of course hem length.
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rowena___.
Posted 2011-02-05 12:45 PM (#72343 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?



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Location: music city, USA
where to locate the yoke seam depends on what the yoke is for.  if you want to incorporate the fitting darts in the seam you have to create a yoke that will allow for that, located in such a way that the release is where the body needs it most.

if you are just making a yoke for show, you can cut it wherever you want.

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Cristina
Posted 2011-02-06 12:59 AM (#72359 - in reply to #72333)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Hi EV,
that distance measured from waist to floor is an important key to body proportion as part of the Height.
It is not influenced by the style chosen.
Almost all length lines of the pattern include in their formulas the "Height"
To get a good proportion I consider "Chart-Height" flexible to change until I get the right proportion for the sloper
but in slightly changing Height I always keep constant that body specific measurement that I called it "overseam"
(as distance waist ot floor) - and of course, I keep two eyes opened on CenterBack measurement

Can't wait for all of us tol get to a common denominator with StMike sloper,

Cristina



Edited by Cristina 2011-02-06 1:02 AM
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LasVegasMike
Posted 2011-02-13 7:22 PM (#72506 - in reply to #72272)
Subject: RE: Mens Shirt Sewalong?


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Location: Las Vegas Nevada
Hello sewing group. I'm participating in Peter's sewalong for the men's shirt. Though I've had Tailor Made for a couple of years, work and life has gotten in the way of me actually using it. But now I thought it would be a good time to start. I'm on my second sloper, as the first one was too tight. I tried taking the measurements myself as I don't have a readily available helper. Once the second sloper is done, hopefully later today I'll see how that one fits. I'm very to see this thread and really want to learn how to properly use the software and make a nice, wearable shirt. I am going for a regular, business type shirt that I would wear to work.
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