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| Sewing casual jackets versus tailoring|
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Location: MO Ozarks
|I'm not exactly sure what I am asking here, but I will give it a go. I have never made a jacket (except for fleece zip front types). I think what is holding me back is the whole notion of tailoring. I would like to have some basic jackets to wear over casual tops, whether pullovers or button front styles--I am not interested in a highly tailored suit-type jacket. |
Where would be a good place to start as far as fabric types and styles? What are your interfacing suggestions for casual jackets, both types of interfacing and where to interface? I know I just need to dive in.
Location: Mohnton, PA 19540
Kathy, I love tailoring. I go for the couture. I just finished a Chanel Jacket sew along. My pictures are under "glendad" in the photo album. Tailoring used to be very time consuming but well worth the results. Today with iron on interfacings and you can do a nice jacket with much less work.
I would start with a wool fabric. I like to use iron on wefting for interfacing when I want a quick jacket. Match the weight to you fabric. Of course you will want to line it.
As far as style keep it simple. My favorite all purpose jacket is the classic jacket with a lapel collar. I like the 2 piece sleeve but you can use a plain sleeve as well. Pockets are optional. One thing I think is absolutely necessary in a jacket is shoulder pads. If you have sloping shoulders you will want them thicker than if you have squared shoulders. Just choose the correct setting in PMB for the shoulder pads.
I hope that helps.
Edited by Glendad 2011-01-27 4:16 PM
Location: North of Seattle, WA
|Check out Judy Barlup's Japanese Tailoring recordings and her book at Uniquetechniques.com. |
|Cate - Gold Coast|
You probably also need to give some consideration to the bottoms because this affects both the length and the design features. Short jackets may look fine with a dress but they can look odd when combined with an overblouse and capri pants for example. Also the overall image. How casual do you want to be? What activities do you plan to do when wearing the jackets.
I find stretch denim a great fabric for casual jackets - I would probably use a double yoke but no interfacing except to support buttons or cuffs/waistbands. Stretch cotton sateen can be nice if you don't mind wrinkles. Linen is very co-operative to sew and if you completely interface it, the wrinkles are minimised.
If, like me, you also suffer from a short plump neck, try collarless jackets - they are quicker and they don't fight with the collars on your tops.
Location: Near Houston TX
|Short, plump necks also look good in a collar that is longer that the neck-choking kind you normally see. However, regarding the question about casual jackets: A casual jacket can be made many ways without a collar. Even a lowered jewel neck can look good. Much of the design consideration would depend on whether you will normally wear the jacket buttoned or unbuttoned. V neck with buttons starting at the bust level, deeper V with one or two buttons starting at the waistline. A rounded V is another option. I made one jacket with a scoop neckline where the buttons start just above the bustline. |
A casual jacket does not have to be lined. Again this depends on what season you will wear it in. I would line a winter jacket but might forego a lining in a summer one. How "formal" do you want this jacket to look? That will affect the design and fabric choices. One option re: lining. I have made summer jackets without lining the body of the jacket but have lined the sleeves. It is easier to put on the jacket that way and keeps the sleeves from too much wrinkling.
A couple of favorite jackets for summer are knits. They are interfaced only in the facing areas, and, not lined at all. (They have short sleeves). I have not even serge-finished the seam allowances. Just the facing edges. Lazy of me.
I do put sholder pads in any jacket, tailored or casual. I have very square shoulders but the pads make the jacket look good on you. Otherwise your shoulders look droopy. Anyway, you have a lot of choices before you. Have fun and let us know what you decide.
Location: Germantown, Tennessee
For style inspiration, I often look to Coldwater Creek...
...and many times I will actually go into the store and try on jackets, to see which ones I do and don't like. I did this today. I tried on one jacket that was so cute...a sort of 'swing' style with a pleat in the back (it was a different jacket, but the back was like this one)...not something that I would have thought would look good on a busty figure but it did! It wasn't lined, though, and it dragged over my clothes when I put in on and off (the sleeves were lined and the seam allowances had the Hong Kong finish).
The fabrics are not always as nice as I would like on these jackets, though. The one I tried on today was an acrylic boucle' weave. If you can find a nice wool fabric, it is much easier to get a good result than if you are working with a lesser-quality fabric like acrylic. I have a jacket in-progress that is made from a coarse woven silk...it was very nice to sew on, and forgiving when I ripped. (My jacket has no collar...deep V neckline, ah princess seams and 3/4 length sleeves...a close fitting jacket, not an overcoat.)
Another source of style inspiration is pattern books! And PatternReview...and sewing blogs...
|I make a lot of tailored, lined jackets. They look great for a long time. I also make a lot of what I call "shirt-jackets". These are basically blouses that I wear over tops, and I've made them from lightweight fabrics to heavier like denim. The jean jacket style is another style I don't line. You can see samples of all of these at www.flyingember.com/sewing/sewing.html. If you have a question whether it is a tailored jacket or a shirt jacket email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.|
|i think getting a book on tailoring would be a good idea. Get the easy tailoring type book. Jackets for Real people, the Zapp method of curure sewing. or Tailoring Ladies jackets. they may have one at your local library. Just look for easy talioring type books. They use interfacing for shaping and have lots of tips. |
|Do you have a good pattern for jackets? |
If you don't I could send you one to test for your measurements.
Location: MO Ozarks
|Thanks for all the comments. For now, I am interested more in unlined, casual jackets. Just something to have an extra layer when it is cool in the winter, or when the air conditioning is too cool for me in the summer (which is almost always). I think I would like something like an upholstery or denim weight fabric. |
Perhaps my main question would be what kinds of interfacing would you recommend for this application? Do you recommending interfacing around the armhole as well as the collar and front edge?
Location: San Diego, CA
|I just finished an unlined princess line kimono style jacket. It was also collarless with curved v neck and curved front hemline. The fabric was a soft medium weight acrylic/poly blend. I interfaced all areas covered by the front, neckline and front hem facings with iron-on easyknit interfacing. I also interfaced the back hem for more weight and stability.|
Edited by JoAnndjob 2011-02-03 5:07 PM
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