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seam allowances
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Glendad
Posted 2010-12-28 3:08 PM (#71680)
Subject: seam allowances



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Location: Mohnton, PA 19540

My daughter is going to be entering the work force and will be in a profession type job.  She is 22 with a figure like I had at 22.  I would like to start sewing for her again but I know I will have to be modifying some of the pattern in PE to add style elements to her clothing. 

My question is how is the best way to handle seam allowances.  Do I put them in PE and if so how do I do that or do I add them after I print the pattern?  What has been your experience if you have done editing in PE?

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Susan in Miami
Posted 2010-12-28 3:56 PM (#71681 - in reply to #71680)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Glenda,

I always add my seam allowances in PE if I have been adjusting the pattern and have removed all seam allowances (or even just some). It is easy and quick but practice first. The tool to use is the offset tool. After you choose the tool it lets you enter how large you want to offset (how large you want your seam allowances in this case) make your choice and click on apply. You will see a cross, click with the cross on the line that you want to add seam allowance to (You have to do this line by line) and then move the cross to the side of the line where you want your seam allowance and then click again. Your required seam allowance should be in place. When I am not sure of fit I always make 1" seam allowances on the side seams or even all vertical seams.

Hope this helps, Susan

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rowena___.
Posted 2010-12-28 5:50 PM (#71685 - in reply to #71680)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Location: music city, USA
FWIW i nearly always draft without seam allowances then add them in PE.  i use different widths for different areas of the garment and it is just such a simple process that it isn't worth fiddling with it in the drafter.  

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cfonfold
Posted 2010-12-28 6:16 PM (#71686 - in reply to #71680)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Location: Norman,OK

And off the other end of the scale--I add no seam allowances until I cut. At that time I chalk in what I need, where I need it. I like having my sccisors or Rotory blade distanced from the paper pattern.

Coopie

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rowena___.
Posted 2010-12-28 6:18 PM (#71687 - in reply to #71686)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Location: music city, USA
coopie, i used to do that and then i discovered that my stitchers were so inexperienced that they did not know what sizes of seam allowances i use on what parts.  without that info on the pattern they wouldn't sew if i wasn't in the room.  LOL

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Glendad
Posted 2010-12-28 6:52 PM (#71688 - in reply to #71681)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Posts: 146
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Location: Mohnton, PA 19540
Susan in Miami - 2010-12-28 3:56 PM

Glenda,

I always add my seam allowances in PE if I have been adjusting the pattern and have removed all seam allowances (or even just some). It is easy and quick but practice first. The tool to use is the offset tool. After you choose the tool it lets you enter how large you want to offset (how large you want your seam allowances in this case) make your choice and click on apply. You will see a cross, click with the cross on the line that you want to add seam allowance to (You have to do this line by line) and then move the cross to the side of the line where you want your seam allowance and then click again. Your required seam allowance should be in place. When I am not sure of fit I always make 1" seam allowances on the side seams or even all vertical seams.

Hope this helps, Susan

Thank you Susan.  I just learned another skill in Pattern Editor.  Now I have options for modifing patterns.

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Glendad
Posted 2010-12-28 6:53 PM (#71690 - in reply to #71680)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Posts: 146
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Location: Mohnton, PA 19540
You have all given me a lot to consider.  Thank you very much.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-12-28 9:43 PM (#71692 - in reply to #71687)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Well now-- that stitcher is ME, and I must confess that I take all kinds of short-cuts! But I do miss the little stinkers!

Coopie

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Marilyn R in IL
Posted 2010-12-29 11:51 AM (#71703 - in reply to #71688)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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I also draft without SA's and add them in PE. Using Susan's explanation, I'll just add that you can use the spacebar to repeat the use of the offset tool. Add the SA, hit space bar and go to the next seam to add another SA. It's really very quick that way. You can then close the corners by using the line tool and right clicking or snapping to the corners. Again, use the space bar to repeat the action with the line tool.

I have tried using different sized SA's like the pros on the list use. However, I have had some unfortunate results when it came time to sew the garment. I sewed the collar w/.625" sa's, trimmed and then realized that I should have only sewn a .25" sa. My collar was rather thin. Add to that, I forgot that I also used .25" sa on the neck edge, but sewed a .625" sa. So I ended up with a wide neck and skinny collar... I'm afraid I am a home sewer and not a pro--even though people may pay me occasionally to make something. I have gone back to always drafting 5/8" allowances in PE and then trimming later--safer for me that way!

HTH, Marilyn
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Trish
Posted 2010-12-29 10:20 PM (#71708 - in reply to #71688)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

I do draft and save my patterns with seam allowances.  This way, when I adjust a pattern in PE, I only have to add seam allowances to the areas I have changed, as oppposed to having to add ALL seam allowances. 

Sometimes I might change enough of the initial pattern that I ended up deleting all the seam allowances I started with, but that is usually NOT the case. 

I don't tend to use a variety of s/a sizes, either...like Marilyn, I find it easier to stick to one size s/a!  It is only a little more work to trim a seam after sewing, and if it prevents mistakes, it is worth my time! 

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Beth in Wichita
Posted 2010-12-30 8:23 AM (#71711 - in reply to #71708)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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What Trish said.  Except that I use 3/8" SAs on everything.  
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Trish
Posted 2010-12-31 12:14 AM (#71730 - in reply to #71711)
Subject: RE: seam allowances



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Location: Germantown, Tennessee
Beth, I now also use 3/8" s/a on most things, and it is because of YOU!  You mentioned doing this several times, so finally I tried it.  Now, if I am trying something new that I think might not fit right, I will increase the s/a size, just in case...but generally 3/8" is good for me, too!
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NancyM
Posted 2011-01-03 11:24 AM (#71802 - in reply to #71680)
Subject: RE: seam allowances


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A confession: I draft with seam allowances and then edit even if I am planning to scale the pattern. Here's my "reasoning" (AKA excuse): when I need to scale I am nearly always making tops or dresses out of fabrics with a stretch factor of 15% to 40%, and scaling horizontally by 3% to 6%. (I scale just a little vertically too only if I'm working with slinky.) At 6%, the difference in width of seam allowance works out to .0375"--for a typical no-closure knit top with four side seam allowances, a total of .15" for the whole garment body. With a somewhat stretchy knit fabric, this makes no never mind--heck, I can't sew all that accurately anyway. Maybe with princess seams I might remember to make the vertical seams just a tiny tad skimpy to compensate, but otherwise I just don't worry about it. I think if I were sewing lingerie or of course swimwear or dancewear, and using super-stretchy fabrics, I'd probably do it right.

Nancy

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