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Bemberg rayon
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thistles
Posted 2010-11-11 1:20 PM (#70204)
Subject: Bemberg rayon



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Location: United States

Hello,

I'm making a skirt out of a wool/cotton crepe with a Bemberg rayon lining.  I plan to dry clean the finished skirt.  According to my some of my fabric books, I should take the wool to the drycleaner for steaming.  What about the Bemberg?  Should I "pre" dryclean it?  I don't want to get into any hand washing.  Do I tell the drycleaner to steam the wool or just tell him to dryclean it?

I've only sewn with cotton before, so I don't know the ropes here.

Thanks for your help!

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cfonfold
Posted 2010-11-11 1:42 PM (#70206 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

IF you're sure you will dry clean ,then send the lining with the fabric. The rayon in my experience will always shrink some.

I wash most everything I stitch. So I do that first with every thing. Linings, interfacings, tapes, zips,fabrics. Can't hurt!

Coopie

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thistles
Posted 2010-11-11 5:23 PM (#70210 - in reply to #70206)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Thanks for your help, Coopie!  I took them both to the drycleaner and asked them to dry clean.  Is that what I should have asked for?  My Claire Schaeffer book says to have the drycleaner steam the wool, but when I asked them to steam it they wanted to know did I want steaming or drycleaning?  Well, I didn't know so I just asked them to dryclean.  What the heck do they do when they dryclean, anyhow?  Like you, everything I own can go in the wash!  I was afraid to try it with this fabric, though, since I'm not familiar.  I have washed rayon in the past, but not this kind.

Thanks!

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rowena___.
Posted 2010-11-11 5:37 PM (#70211 - in reply to #70210)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: music city, USA
i wash everything, even wool.  even leather, although that causes most people to faint.  you can steam your own wool at home, just put a sheet in the washing machine in HOT water, make it soaking wet, then spin it out.  lay it flat, lay your wool on it, roll the whole thing and leave it for a day or so.  unroll it and press it dry.  tedious, but does the job.

however, i don't do that.  i put a swatch in the wash, in the cycle i would wash the garment in.  if the swatch changes too much to be used for that project, i save it for a different project.  


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Susan in Miami
Posted 2010-11-11 5:52 PM (#70212 - in reply to #70211)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: Miami, Florida

Pam Erny has interesting information on her website about an easy way to preshrink wool in your dryer. I tried it with very expensive Italian tropical weight wool and it came out beautiful, the hand did not change at all. Take a look and decide for yourself... http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/search/label/More%20Sewing%20Tutorials .

Susan

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thistles
Posted 2010-11-11 6:13 PM (#70213 - in reply to #70212)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Thanks for mentioning Pam's site--I love her interfacing and hadn't thought to check her tutorials.  It sounds like a convenient process.  I don't really have room to do the sheet wrapping technique.  Since I am using the drycleaner this time, will I get the pre-shrinking I need?
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thistles
Posted 2010-11-11 7:10 PM (#70214 - in reply to #70213)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: United States

I think what I am asking is will the drycleaning do the pre-shrinking, or do I need to tell the drycleaner to specifically steam shrink it?  And is this true for both the wool and the rayon, or just the wool?

Thanks for all the guidance so far!  I have also written to Vogue Fabrics, where I purchased it, for some input, but I'm not sure how quickly they will be able to get back to me.



Edited by thistles 2010-11-11 7:12 PM
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sewsally
Posted 2010-11-11 7:58 PM (#70215 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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I think you want to have the fabrics "steam shrunk".
Tell your dry cleaner you are going to make a jacket and don't want shrinkage when you have the garment cleaned.
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thistles
Posted 2010-11-11 8:41 PM (#70216 - in reply to #70215)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: United States
Thanks everybody!  I think I am starting to get the idea.  Next time I plan to undertake this at home.  My Threads Archive says that Bemberg can be washed, and I like all the wool tips offered here.  You guys are great!
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Marilyn R in IL
Posted 2010-11-12 8:49 AM (#70225 - in reply to #70216)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Bemberg rayon can definitely be washed. It does wrinkle--a lot. If you like, wash and dry it, but be prepared that it will not look perfectly smooth again even with careful pressing. Ask me how I know... I use bemberg rayon in ALL cases where I need a slippery lining. I have never had a shrinkage problem with garments that are subsequently dry-cleaned--I suppose it is technically possible that the lining will shrink, but since I use a steam iron during construction of the garment, it just hasn't happened. I am pressing with steam--while sewing--the rayon the whole time. I guess that must take care of it. Anyway that's my experience.

I have taken wool crepe to the dry cleaners and asked them to steam shrink it. I have also washed and dried wool crepe trying for a felted wool look. Washing and drying it does shrink it some, but nothing like when felting wool jersey in the machine. Washing does change the hand of the wool and the look. All depends on what you want!

Marilyn
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-11-12 11:31 AM (#70237 - in reply to #70225)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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In the case of a badly wrinkled piece of fabric like this, I would throw it in the dryer again, on low heat, with a damp towel, just for ten minutes or so. The wrinkles should fall out.

I've done this with velvet, too, and it works beautifully.
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barbara
Posted 2010-11-12 12:59 PM (#70240 - in reply to #70237)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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the shrinking in the dryer sounds promising, although I have never tried it. In my experience the dry cleaners will not steam shrink it unless you ask them to and when I asked them to did it, they didn't know what I was talking about. It was wool crepe and it came back bigger, I think they stretched it out when they pressed. I steamed it myself at home and made the jacket and it is fine. I am wearing it tonight, in fact.

I think doing it yourself is the best. You can just lay the fabric on a table with towels under it and use your iron on stream and go over the entire piece of fabric and let it dry. That should shrink it enough. When you wash the rayon it will get very slippery, but you can work with it. you can iron it, it is a lot of work. I always use the bemberg lining whenever possible and it is worth the extra work, I soak the interfacing in warm water, use towels to take out the moisture and then let it dry. I have heard from some sources it is not necessary, but it you put all that work into a project, you don't want anything to ruin it.

I am up to try the dryer technique. DD may need a tweed coat. So maybe a new project coming up.
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Glendad
Posted 2010-11-12 5:34 PM (#70247 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: Mohnton, PA 19540
I soak then spin all my wools.  I had a very bad experience with a drycleaner.  My fabrick came back fuzzy and partly felted.  I recently bought a front load washer with a wool setting.  I was give some beautiful wools.  The person who had owned them was a smoker and the wool smelled like smoke.  I washed them in the washer and laid them flat to dry.  the came out beautiful.
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vickys
Posted 2010-11-13 9:10 AM (#70270 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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A little off the topic of bemberg rayon but about dry cleaners...

I bought a beautifully woven wool king size blanket. After winter, I took it to the 'dry' cleaners. After I picked it up, I hung it in my closet until the following winter. When I took off the hanger to make my bed, my beautiful king size blanket was now about crib size.

My dogs LOVE it.

I haven't taken anything to the cleaners since.

Vicky S
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-11-13 9:55 AM (#70271 - in reply to #70270)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Dry cleaners aren't what they used to be, and that's a fact.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-11-13 11:10 AM (#70278 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Posts: 1972
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In maybe 1962--I took a red wool men's jacket--the first I had ever tailored, to our neighborhood cleaners to be pressed before having my customer pick it up. Bless the man--he took a good look at it, complimented me on my work and told me to take it home and undo the lining across the hem and sleeves. Then to put them back with a jump hem if there was enough excess. Or else leave them loose. That he could not promise that the lining would not shrink. I did, and they did indeed! There were a dozen of these jackets for our local high school men's ensemble.

Bless old fashioned neighborhood merchants. It would have been a disaster. I learned my lesson. I treat everything. I simply don't trust anymore. Rayon is a bit difficult to treat but I really think that it is the very best lining to wear. And as a friend says, "it really wants to be a lining--It just follows the contour of the garment!"

Coopie

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Gloria in South IL
Posted 2010-11-13 12:52 PM (#70284 - in reply to #70278)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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Location: Sparta Illinois
Does the type of rayon lining you use have a name?
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-11-13 5:23 PM (#70302 - in reply to #70284)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Bemberg. I hand wash, line dry, and press. I have for years bought it form the school shop. Since we ordered it by the bolt in usable colors we got a good price. I have not looked locally yet.

Coopie

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PCMomwad
Posted 2010-11-14 12:46 AM (#70323 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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The name I know bemberg lining as is Ambiance.  I use it for 98% of my lined garments.

I have not had trouble with it shrinking in suit jackets I dry clean, but like others, I steam press a lot and leave a jump hem.

However, I have had it shrink when I wash it.  One one vest, I had to piece in 3/4" at the bottom!  If I'm going to wash the garment, I prewash the rayon lining.  If I'm going to dry clean, I don't bother.

I don't sew with wool as much as I used to, but I haven't done much more than steam it with my iron held a few inches above in years...

Google Ambiance lining fabric
Ambiance is a rayon lining created by Logantex Fabrics. It is processed in Japan and it is a luxurious feeling rayon. It is the preferred lining of many of our customers at The Sewing Place because of its versatile, mid-weight comfort and breathability. We carry the complete line of Ambiance, see all 89 colors below. It is 45" wide, washable and dry cleanable.



Edited by PCMomwad 2010-11-14 12:48 AM
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-11-14 10:32 AM (#70351 - in reply to #70323)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Thanks Phyllis. Honestly I think most of what we get locally is Poly and wretched to wear!

Coopie

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rowena___.
Posted 2010-11-14 11:50 AM (#70357 - in reply to #70351)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Location: music city, USA
same here, there is no bemberg in nashville, or if there is, whoever has it is keeping it a secret.  i usually order whole bolts of black and white, and i dye anything i need to match.

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PCMomwad
Posted 2010-11-21 12:17 AM (#70610 - in reply to #70204)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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Google Ambiance Rayon lining or Ambiance Bemberg Rayon and you will find lots of fine fabric stores sell it.  I usually purchase 5-8 yards of basic colors like black, navy, and gray. 

I do not like to wear poly lining or anything acrylic!

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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-11-21 7:11 AM (#70613 - in reply to #70610)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Phyllis, thank you for posting this; it reminded me to add my new resource for Bemberg!

Solo, which sold fasteners, and had a great notions catalog, recently sold to a company named Wawak. They are a 100-year old alterations supply firm, and they carry lots of colors of Bemberg Ambience rayon linings. The one limitation is amounts; it seems as though you can choose between "put ups"-or precut pieces, or by the bolt.

You can find them here: http://www2.wawak.com/

They sent me a very nice catalog, by the way.

Edited by Karen Maslowski 2010-11-21 7:12 AM
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pldesigns
Posted 2010-11-21 7:56 AM (#70616 - in reply to #70613)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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You can also get a color card of Ambiance from Fishman's in Chicago , or color samples from Sawyer Brook in Mass. ( SB will also match your color for you if you send a swatch)

Sue

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thistles
Posted 2010-11-21 11:51 AM (#70623 - in reply to #70616)
Subject: RE: Bemberg rayon



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I got mine from Vogue fabrics on-line.  They have a really extensive color selection and they have an option to let them choose the best color match for your fabric, which I did.  I'm very pleased with both the fabric and the color.
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