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PMB5 Funky neckline experiment
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LadyRuna
Posted 2010-10-25 8:57 PM (#69208)
Subject: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment



Veteran

Posts: 101
100
Location: Oregon
I took Anne St. Clair's changing necklines class at the ASG National Convention and I decided to try one of them. I started with: blouse - neckline princess seams and then edited in PE to create the neckline.

I sewed it using scrap knit fabrics since this was only a test.

http://www.wildginger.com/forums/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=445&... - closeup of the neckline style
http://www.wildginger.com/forums/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=445&... - what the whole top looks like.

Problems:
"Wings" under the arms - although I lowered the sleeve cap 1", it didn't help as much as I thought it would. There's too much fabric under the arm and there are folds present showing that I may have to either lower the cap more or choose dart override.... I think it's dart override, but not sure.

I checked the armhole shape of the printout against my PMB4 designs (using similar settings) and the armhole is larger by about 1/2"...

To make the neckline, glue the princess seams together at the top (until the seams curve away), cut the upper section off using an arc that starts about 1.75" below armhole and ends about 2.5" higher when it hits the center front. Cut off lower section and separate the two lower pieces. Mirror the armhole-neckline bit you cut off so you have a complete pattern. Cut vertically using a slight arc about where the neckline is. Change the shape of the neckline opening on the larger side to a short arc that goes into a straight line... add seam allowances all around. When you sew it, you finish the neckline edges and gather the extra fabric from the larger side. I didn't gather it enough. How can I be certain? Because the neckline hole is tight enough I have to remove my glasses to pull it on.

The flower fabric up top clearly shows the shaping I used for the upper section.

I'm debating about whether this is a wadder or something I can wear... I'm not sure I'm particularly fond of the color combination I used. (note: due to the fact I was using scraps, I couldn't lay out the fabric in any other way because I didn't have sufficient fabric in either color to do it differently). So... would YOU wear it? Is it wearable for me or does it look too dippy? Since the fabric didn't cost me anything, I have no problems tossing it into the Goodwill box...

I think I should redo it using a different starting seam... the neckline princess looks ODD when used on someone with my figure type. Comments?

My chart for reference for settings if you want to duplicate the what I've done. (I can attach las if you wish)



Style Summary: Andie Letourneau

Chart:
Andie Letourneau
Date: 10/25/2010
Units: Inches

Garment Type: Blouse
Body Shape: Balanced
Difficulty Level: Easy

Style: Classic
Closure: No Closure

Front Neckline: Jewel
Back Neckline: Jewel
Front Neckline Depth: 0.5
Back Neckline Depth: 0.5
Neckline Width: 0.25
Neckline Point: 0

Front Darts: Neckline Princess
Back Darts: Armscye Princess
Front Torso Darts: 1
Back Torso Darts: 1

Dart Override: 0
Bust Pt Vertical: 11.5
Bust Pt Horizontal: 4.5
Upper Front Dart Length: 1.75
Upper Back Dart Length: 1.75
Lower Front Dart Length: 4.75
Lower Back Dart Length: 6
Back Shoulder Dart Length: 3
First Back Dart Position: 3

Armhole Depth: 0
Side/Arm Point: 0
Side/Waist Point: 0
Side/Hip Point: 0
Cf/Extension: 0
Cb/Extension 0
Shoulder Pad: 0
Shoulder Point: 0
Finished Cb/Hem Length: 24
Sideseam Shape: Fitted
Hemline Sweep: Straight
Hemline Shape: Straight

Hip Depth: 8

Sleeve Style: Set In
Sleeve Underarm Seam: Curved
Sleeve Hemline Shape: Straight
Sleeve Length: Three Qtr
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.39
Sleeve Underarm Length: 15
Sleeve Overarm Length: 0
Sleeve Hem Circumference: 12
Sleeve Elbow Depth: 8
Sleeve Elbow Circum.: 10
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -1


Seam Allowance: 0.5
Hem Allowance: 1.5
Facing Width: 2

Chest Ease: 2.5
Waist Ease: 0.75
Hip Ease: 2.5

Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 14.5
Neck Circumference: 13
Natural Waist: 31.5
Hip Circumference: 41.25
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 68
Weight: 160
Bra Cup Size: G
Center Front Length: 14.5
Front Shoulder Width: 13.75
Front Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Center Back Length: 16
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.25
Bicep Circumference: 13.5
Bust Radius: 4.75

Finished Garment Measurements

Front Neck Length: 9.6
Back Neck Length: 6.7

Front Armhole Length: 10.6
Back Armhole Length: 9.4

Front Sleeve Cap Length: 0
Back Sleeve Cap Length: 0
Across Bicep Width: 0

Front Chest Width: 25
Back Chest Width: 19

Front Hem Width: 22.9
Back Hem Width: 21.9

Front Waist Length: 16.1
Back Waist Length: 16.1

Front Hip Width: 21.9
Back Hip Width: 21.9
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-10-26 8:44 AM (#69231 - in reply to #69208)
Subject: RE: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment



Veteran

Posts: 160
1002525
Location: Ontario
That's cool! Because you are using knits, I would recommend slightly decreasing the ease in the chest and hips. Not sure if it will fix the wings but it might help. Your cap height is -1 but I believe you want a positive number to tighten the armpit. Try 0.75 for cap height. And it will be more flattering if you use a darker colour on the sleeves and sides and a lighter colour in the middle.
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sewsally
Posted 2010-10-26 11:08 AM (#69237 - in reply to #69208)
Subject: RE: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1057
10002525
Location: North of Seattle, WA
I usually raise the armhole for knits and use zero bust ease.
I often check the width of the sleeve and raise the cap so the sleeve will be snugger.

Edited by sewsally 2010-10-26 11:09 AM
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LadyRuna
Posted 2010-10-26 11:09 AM (#69238 - in reply to #69208)
Subject: RE: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment



Veteran

Posts: 101
100
Location: Oregon
I thought that if you raised the cap height you then couldn't raise your arm because the cap was too tall? (or if you do raise your arm, then the whole side seam rises?).
I'll test that.

I wish I could have done it with the fabrics reversed - but I only had very small scraps of the flower print and none were wide enough to make even a short sleeve. I didn't want to have to piece the sleeves together... It's sounding like this shirt will be bound for Goodwill...
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EasilyAmewsed
Posted 2010-10-26 4:09 PM (#69264 - in reply to #69208)
Subject: RE: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 528
50025
Location: Eugene OR
The colors bug me, but the idea is cool. Maybe do it all in the same fabric and do some serious topstiching?
Neckline princess might not be bad if the middle panel wasn't so contrasting. I had never tried neckline princess as I have enough East- West at the bosom by nature without the emphasis of a seam line. <

Belinda had a good fix suggestion for the batwings - it involved not using your actual bust size, but going smaller ( can't recall in what thread this was). The bust size drafts at armpit level, which is not always where the real bust fullness is. I tried this last night in a 25% stretch knit top and it it was far less saggy. I have a low average (b cup) bust, but this works because I use a larger cup size for body depth, and I chose my actual above the bust measure + .5. I often raise my armhole depth a little, but haven't in V5 yet..still checking things out.
I have not tried this in wovens yet, but have a sloper set to sew up with this chart so maybe the idea will carry over.
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Belinda
Posted 2010-10-26 6:47 PM (#69274 - in reply to #69264)
Subject: RE: PMB5 Funky neckline experiment



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1072
10002525
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Belinda had a good fix suggestion for the batwings - it involved not using your actual bust size, but going smaller ( can't recall in what thread this was).

If it helps, I wrote about this recently on my blog which is probably the best place to find this info.
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/2010/10/blue-strokes-part-2.html
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