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TM Collar Band Scaling
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StMike
Posted 2010-10-07 4:45 PM (#67770)
Subject: TM Collar Band Scaling



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I am working on yet another dress shirt using the TM pattern. I wanted an easy way to modify the collar stand width in PE. Currently, the collar stand comes in only one width - 1 inch. I wanted a 1.25" width. There were several solutions already mentioned: sew with smaller seam allowance; make another shirt patter using the Band selection for collar - that option has a number of different band widths including a 1.25" one. Then, I tried redrawing the band in PE with some success but more work than I wanted. Then, just while practicing with the scaling tool in preparation for sewing with stretch fabrics, it occurred to me that I could use that tool to scale the collar stand width to 1.25". It worked! In PE, I selected the collar stand piece and scaled vertically 125% (after removing seam allowances). Now, no more creating two patterns and then merging them just to get a band with the 1.25" width. Lisa. Any potential problems with the shape of the modified stand? I measured it and it seems to be right on target.
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SueC56
Posted 2010-10-07 4:58 PM (#67771 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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Sounds like an elegant solution, accurate and easy.  
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dianas
Posted 2010-10-07 10:22 PM (#67797 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling


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StMike - 2010-10-07 4:45 PM

I am working on yet another dress shirt using the TM pattern. I wanted an easy way to modify the collar stand width in PE. Currently, the collar stand comes in only one width - 1 inch. I wanted a 1.25" width. There were several solutions already mentioned: sew with smaller seam allowance; make another shirt patter using the Band selection for collar - that option has a number of different band widths including a 1.25" one. Then, I tried redrawing the band in PE with some success but more work than I wanted. Then, just while practicing with the scaling tool in preparation for sewing with stretch fabrics, it occurred to me that I could use that tool to scale the collar stand width to 1.25". It worked! In PE, I selected the collar stand piece and scaled vertically 125% (after removing seam allowances). Now, no more creating two patterns and then merging them just to get a band with the 1.25" width. Lisa. Any potential problems with the shape of the modified stand? I measured it and it seems to be right on target.


Brilliant.

If you did what I think you did I don't think there'd be a problem as the joining edges to collar and neckline would be the same as the original pattern. You can always sew a test with muslin.

Diana
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Trish
Posted 2010-10-08 12:57 AM (#67811 - in reply to #67797)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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Brilliant.

I think so too!

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-10-08 7:00 AM (#67814 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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I think it would be easier to just draft the band collar the desired width.

You can use the collar from the dress shirt with it.

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StMike
Posted 2010-10-08 8:40 AM (#67822 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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I was using the band, and that works. But I wanted to find a way to do it all on the PE screen at once. Using the band entails creating a second copy of the entire pattern, removing all the pieces except the band, saving it, then merging it with my original shirt pattern. That works, but it is a lot of machinations. The scaling still requires some doing on screen - removing seam allowances, scaling, putting seam allowances back, etc. But I don't have to fool around with the other band collar shirt pattern and then merge it. I want to print my pattern all from the same screen.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-10-08 8:43 AM (#67823 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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Not sure why you are printing from PE.

I would print the shirt pattern.  Use page print so you don't print the band.

Then draft with the band the desired width and use page print to just print the band.

Or you could print the full shirt with the band, and then select the other collar and just print it using page print.

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StMike
Posted 2010-10-08 9:03 AM (#67825 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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I print from PE because that is where I am when finished tweaking the pattern. I have tried all those iterations you mention, but I still like my approach best. Why don't you like the scaling method?
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EasilyAmewsed
Posted 2010-10-08 4:23 PM (#67873 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling


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Scaling sounds like a less demanding in hand coordination than how I just did the same thing. I selected the entire top of the collar band, held down my left mouse button, held down ctrl and did a quick drag. I let go of ctrl, and while still holding down the mouse button, typed in .25. The entire top line of the collar was moved up exactly .25 , - essentially a manual slash & spread.

I considered offset, but that's not the same, especially when dealing with any piece that has a curve in it and unlike a forearm, I think the neck in more constant in girth. I guess if the collar & band want to ride to the back, but the shoulders and front neck depth are fine, then I'd need more spread.

I haven't used scale except for knits, scaling .jpg tracings or toy making either since I avoid math when possible. 
I'm working in PMB, trying to recreate a 70's type shirt my very slim DS loves, but figure the PE functions just the same in TM. I've just cut out the pattern so dunno how this experiment will turn out yet, but I have hope.

As for printing out of PE, oh heck yeah..do it all the time since I paste in my summary info onto one of the larger parts of any pattern I make, not to mention some specs or notes about manual redraws I did such as custom darts.
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StMike
Posted 2010-10-08 5:32 PM (#67875 - in reply to #67770)
Subject: RE: TM Collar Band Scaling



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Putting notes and other pieces of information on the larger pattern pieces in PE is a terrific idea. I can think of all kinds of things I will put on there now. For example, some of the changes that were made in the design and where. I like that idea a lot. Thanks much. Also, your method of widening the neck band works like a charm, too. Although it requires some dexterity, it is a very clever solution to the problem of a too thin neck band. Another thing I have done is to measure that Collar/Neck Band seam and then shorten the collar piece to fit exactly. I shorten it from the collar front. It is usually close to 1/4." Your method would work well for that change, too. There is too much ease in required in sewing that collar seam for me, and I got poor results. I really like the effect of shortening the collar piece to fit.
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