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40's and 50's Jeans
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-09-13 2:37 PM (#66323)
Subject: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
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Location: Ontario
I need some jeans and I love these Freddies of Pinewood styles. These would be awesome with a flannel lining. Toasty warm in the winter with a hint of colour when the cuffs are rolled up. Some of the styles have a button at the waistline between the center front and side seam. They are described as side zipper 'hidden inside the pocket." There are also some very cool side button styles and
dungarees. (Some of the pictures have arrows beneath them and you can see different views.)

Anyone know how to draft a side zipper inside a pocket?




Edited by marieannepynn 2010-09-13 2:46 PM
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Katy in AZ
Posted 2010-09-13 2:55 PM (#66325 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


Member

Posts: 24

Where is the zipper hiding?

I know! I know!

The zipper in inside the pocket. Imagine your pants before you attach the waistband and before you baste the tops of the pockets in place.

The zip can be in the under pocket anywhere it is convenient, but out-of-sight behind the slanted opening. Basically, you would stitch a slot shape, cut the center line with angles to the corners, turn and topstitch over the zipper edges.

The under pocket is stitched to the underlap of the waistband and the upper pocket to the overlap, thus, the button ends up on the side front.

Now, I make my slant pocket edge pants (not jeans) without any zipper at all. I just leave the center edge of the left pocket unstitched for several inches ( the difference between the waist and hip measuements) to allow for getting in and out. One must just remember not to put valuables in this pocket as it is not very deep. It is deep enough for a tissue though.

Katy in AZ
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-09-13 4:14 PM (#66330 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
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Location: Ontario
Awesome! Thanks Katy. Do you own a pair? You know an aweful lot about them.
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patmiller3
Posted 2010-09-13 5:22 PM (#66331 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


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Posts: 166
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Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing book shows how to put a zipper in a side pocket.

Pat
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Katy in AZ
Posted 2010-09-13 6:17 PM (#66336 - in reply to #66330)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


Member

Posts: 24

No, I have to try on any pants. Mine are Lee granny jeans with elastic side inserts. That's why I sew.

BTW, my favorite pants fabric is cotton poly twill from Fabric.com 35% cotton, 65% poly. It comes in lots of basic colors. I suspect it is uniform fabric. It wears like iron and holds it color to the end. I give them touch up ironing on the crease most of the time, but not always. TR-008 is the number for wine color which is a very pretty dark red. I own brown, khaki, dark green, navy and white pants in this fabric.

Katy in AZ

Edited by Katy in AZ 2010-09-13 6:19 PM
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-10-14 1:05 PM (#68165 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
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Location: Ontario
Someone over at the FedoraLounge was kind enough to post pictures of their hidden zipper. I actually cut out tiny paper pattern pieces to see and feel how this hidden zipper worked. It's pretty cool!
pocket zipper
pocket zipper
pocket zipper
pocket zipper

Am I crazy or do these pants not have darts? Hehe, maybe those are hiding too, in the side seam.
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barbara
Posted 2010-10-14 1:20 PM (#68170 - in reply to #68165)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


100010010025
when I took a pants fitting class, it was suggested not to put in a dart in the front. It would draw too much attention to an area, that we tend to not want attention. I think a dart makes the front bulky for me.

I suppose it would depend on your shape. For me I am very straight not much difference from hip to waist, so the dart really doesn't matter much.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-10-14 6:08 PM (#68187 - in reply to #68165)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Location: Norman,OK

At least part is in the cf seam. Look at that bias.

Coopie

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EasilyAmewsed
Posted 2010-10-14 7:45 PM (#68197 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


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Location: Eugene OR
That is SO cool... I always hate how closures make a lump under a top.  * save  for ref *
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-11-25 1:20 PM (#70742 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
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Location: Ontario
Okay so here is my second muslin.
Greaser jeans,second muslin

Greaser jeans,second muslin

Greaser jeans,second muslin
Style Name: Greaser
Date: 23/11/2010
Last Update: October 1, 2010
Chart: Marie-Anne Pynn

Garment Type: Pants
Style: Jeans
Waistline: Waistband
Darts: Darts
Front Waist Darts: 0
Back Waist Darts: 1
Closure: Side Zipper
Leg Style: Flared

Front Crotch Curve: Round
Back Crotch Curve: Round

Pant Length: Ankle
Inseam Length: 32
Hemline Flare: 1
Waistband Width: 1.5

Front Dart Length: 3
Back Dart Length: 7
Front Dart Position: 3
Back Dart Position: 3

Sideseam Movement: 0
Center Front Waist Drop: 0
Center Back Waist Drop: 0
Sideseam Waist Drop: 0

Front Crotch Extension: 0
Back Crotch Extension: 0
Front Crotch Break: 0
Back Crotch Break: 0

Hip Shape: 0
Skirt/Pant Circumference: 25.75
Knee Width: 0.5
Knee Depth: 24.375
Hip Depth: 8

Applied Pocket Style: Patch
Applied Pocket Height: 4.5
Applied Pocket Width: 4.5

Seam Allowance: 0.5
Hem Allowance: 2
Facing Width: 2

Waist Ease: 0.75
Hip Ease: 2
Crotch Ease: 0.75


Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 34.75
Back Shoulder Width: 14.5
Neck Circumference: 12.5
Natural Waist: 25.75
Hip Circumference: 34
Crotch Length: 26
Height: 66.75
Weight: 120
Bra Cup Size: C
Center Front Length: 14.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14
Front Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Shoulder Length: 4.25
Center Back Length: 16
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.5
Bicep Circumference: 11
Notes: Hip depth - 9

Lower back dart - 7

Guideline #1 0.25

Guideline #2 0.75

Guideline #3 0.25

Guideline #4 0.75

Guideline #5 1.125

Guideline #6 1.25
Finished Garment Measurements


Front Waist Length: 13.2
Back Waist Length: 13.2

Front Hip Width: 18
Back Hip Width: 18

Front Crotch Length: 12.5
Back Crotch Length: 14

Front Hem Width: 6.2
Back Hem Width: 6.8

Coming along.... I may add some ease. I would like them to have a more casual relaxed fit.
I added the yoke in PE, it's purely esthetical. Because my lower back dart length is 7 I thought it would be best if the yoke wasn't involved in dart work.

I find that the front upper thigh is a little tight when I walk and sit. Is this a hip ease issue? The back crotch is a little tight but I have a little excess at the crotch front. Is there a way to transfer crotch length from the front to the back. Perhaps a flat crotch for the front only. Or should I use the crotch extension functions, extend the back and reduce the front?

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barbara
Posted 2010-11-25 5:04 PM (#70746 - in reply to #70742)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans


100010010025
you have drag lines in the front from tummy to hips, so maybe you need to decrease the front waist length. you might need more ease, but maybe there is too much length and it is not falling in the right place.

Fro the front crotch, it might be too long, so use a shorter crotch length and changing the shape of the crotch might help. try a negative crotch break, just look at the changes in the pattern and see what you think. I think the back looks good, and I think they just need a few adjustments to perfect.

You don't have any horizontal lines that I can see, and you need to keep everything level, so it hangs straight. I think it works best to work backwards with pants. Do all the changes in your muslin. cut it, pin it take tucks, do what ever it needs to get it looking better and take it apart and see what you got.

hopefully someone smarter will give you more advice. I don't cook on thanksgiving, it was the only thing I did right in my marriage, I inadvertently cooked bad from the very beginning.
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-12-03 9:10 AM (#70982 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
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Location: Ontario
Thanks for the reply Barbara. I hope you had a wonderful thanksgiving. I played around with the crotch depth setting and experimented with the crotch extension. What worked was decreasing the back extension which pulled the front crotch closer to my body. I don't have any pictures yet, hopefully I'll get to it sometime today.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2010-12-03 9:44 AM (#70984 - in reply to #70982)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Location: Miami, Florida

Your fix is what works for me also. Hope you are as happy with your pants as I am with mine.

Susan

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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-12-03 11:36 PM (#71021 - in reply to #66323)
Subject: RE: 40's and 50's Jeans



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Posts: 160
1002525
Location: Ontario
Here are the pictures and style sheets.
Pattern Master: Boutique 4
Wild Ginger Software, Inc.
Copyright: 1998-2010

Style Details

Style Name: Greaser5
Date: 03/12/2010
Last Update: October 1, 2010
Chart: Marie-Anne Pynn

Garment Type: Pants
Style: Jeans
Waistline: Waistband
Darts: Darts
Front Waist Darts: 0
Back Waist Darts: 1
Closure: Side Zipper
Leg Style: Flared
Back Crotch Shape Up: 0.1 clicks

Front Crotch Curve: Round
Back Crotch Curve: Round

Pant Length: Ankle
Inseam Length: 32
Hemline Flare: 1
Waistband Width: 1.5

Front Dart Length: 3
Back Dart Length: 7
Front Dart Position: 3
Back Dart Position: 3

Sideseam Movement: 0
Center Front Waist Drop: 0
Center Back Waist Drop: 0
Sideseam Waist Drop: 0

Front Crotch Extension: 0
Back Crotch Extension: -0.75
Front Crotch Break: 0
Back Crotch Break: 0

Hip Shape: 0
Skirt/Pant Circumference: 25.75
Knee Width: 0.5
Knee Depth: 24.375
Hip Depth: 8

Applied Pocket Style: Patch
Applied Pocket Height: 4.5
Applied Pocket Width: 4.5

Seam Allowance: 0.5
Hem Allowance: 2
Facing Width: 2

Waist Ease: 0.75
Hip Ease: 2
Crotch Ease: 0.5


Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 34.75
Back Shoulder Width: 14.5
Neck Circumference: 12.5
Natural Waist: 25.75
Hip Circumference: 34
Crotch Length: 26.5
Height: 66.75
Weight: 120
Bra Cup Size: C
Center Front Length: 14.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14
Front Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Shoulder Length: 4.25
Center Back Length: 16
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.5
Bicep Circumference: 11
Notes: Hip depth - 9

Lower back dart - 7

Guideline #1 0.25

Guideline #2 0.75

Guideline #3 0.25

Guideline #4 0.75

Guideline #5 1.125

Guideline #6 1.25
Finished Garment Measurements


Front Waist Length: 13.2
Back Waist Length: 13.2

Front Hip Width: 18
Back Hip Width: 18

Front Crotch Length: 12.5
Back Crotch Length: 13.1

Front Hem Width: 6.2
Back Hem Width: 6.8

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket
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