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Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?
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pelli73
Posted 2010-09-12 9:14 PM (#66281)
Subject: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Member

Posts: 19

Location: US-Illinois
A quesiton for the experts
I'd love to make this Vintage Vogue pattern using PMB, because I'd really like it to fit when I get it done
I know some of how to translate it to PMB, but am not that proficient with PE yet-so my question is, how would you go about recreating this pattern in PE? I've gotten as far as the jacket starting as a fitted jacket with shoulder princess front and back-would I just shorten the princess line to make the curve to the side seam, then use the offset function once I'm satisfied with the look of the curve?
What about that neat little "flounce" feature in the back? I know how to do the curve between the princess seam lines, but how do I put that extra fabric in for the soft folds?
As I've said, I "almost" know what I need to do, but I'd love to hear how those of you who really understand PE would go about creating this one!
Thanks so much for the input
Carole



(IMG_0062-PMB.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_0062-PMB.JPG (34KB - 4 downloads)
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rowena___.
Posted 2010-09-12 9:36 PM (#66284 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



20001000500100100100
Location: music city, USA
draft a close fitting jacket with the princess seam.  then lengthen it in PE so as to add enough to the bottom to draw your style lines.  which style line is the fitting line is so hard to tell in renderings, it looks to me like neither princess seam crosses the bust point in this drawing, so it would help to see the line drawing or the pattern pieces.

the lower section at the back is cut from the center section--you can see the seamline in the drawing--then slash and pivot to get the desired fullness.

this is not exactly a hard pattern but it is definitely not a beginner project.

muslin, muslin, muslin.

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familysewn
Posted 2010-09-13 6:48 AM (#66296 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Veteran

Posts: 129
10025
Does it look like the shoulder seams are extended and shoulder pads?
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-09-13 12:19 PM (#66314 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Veteran

Posts: 160
1002525
Location: Ontario
I did find a line drawing here. I thought for sure this jacket had shoulder pads but they are not mentioned in the yardage and notions. If you don't use shoulder pads, you should consider sleeve heads to achieve a nice shape.
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Beverly A.
Posted 2010-09-13 6:03 PM (#66335 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Elite Veteran

Posts: 631
50010025
Location: Near Houston TX
Shoulder pads ARE mentioned in the yardage as batting. Apparently, you make your own and I would suppose there is a pattern provided for them. I would not make that jacket without pads or sleeve heads.
Beverly A.
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-09-13 6:32 PM (#66337 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Veteran

Posts: 160
1002525
Location: Ontario
Well there you have it. Thanks Beverly, I missed that.
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pelli73
Posted 2010-09-14 9:08 PM (#66407 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Member

Posts: 19

Location: US-Illinois
Thanks for the pointers. I'm definately going to try drafting this one myself. I'll post pic's if/when I get it finished. I really love the styles of the 40's.

One question I do have-what do you your muslins? I've got mine carefully folded with my quilt fabric, and will probably use them in small quilt projects. Juat curious what others do with all that good fabric once the test fit is done.

Carole
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rowena___.
Posted 2010-09-14 9:21 PM (#66408 - in reply to #66407)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



20001000500100100100
Location: music city, USA
unless i have a compelling reason to use actual muslin, i always use inexpensive, but attractive, fabric.  that way even if it isn't perfect, i end up with something wearable.  if the finished garment doesn't fit or otherwise ends up not being right for me, i donate it to a local women's shelter, they are always happy to have my things and they tell me often that the women they serve are always pleased to get something special.


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rebells
Posted 2010-09-15 10:33 AM (#66418 - in reply to #66407)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
5002525
Location: Minneapolis, MN
pelli73 - 2010-09-14 7:08 PM I'm definately going to try drafting this one myself. I'll post pic's if/when I get it finished....Carole


Please don't wait until you're finished.  Post each step, even the ones that don't work, so we can all learn with you.
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barbara
Posted 2010-09-15 9:41 PM (#66425 - in reply to #66407)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


100010010025
i save my muslins and put them with the pattern and wrote the pattern # and size on it. If I need it again for fit or for someone else to try on I have one. I figure if I went through all the trouble to make it and it is not wearable, I might as well save it for future reference.
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Olwynmary
Posted 2010-09-16 12:08 AM (#66431 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


I only use actual muslin - well, old sheets actually - for slopers/fitting garments. Otherwise, like Rowena, I make the trial garment (we called it a toile in England) out of stuff I find on the $1 or $2 a yard table. I look for something with a similar weight, drape and hand to the fashion fabric. Even if it needs further minor tweaks, I often find I can wear the "toile" as a garment, particularly around the house, or in the case of the armhole princess tops I am currently working on, under a vest or jacket.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans
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marieannepynn
Posted 2010-09-16 10:50 AM (#66464 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Veteran

Posts: 160
1002525
Location: Ontario
I save mine too now. Both of my computers crashed last winter and I lost everything. So now I save my muslins and I pin the pattern information to it. This way if I want to make another one, or make something similar I already have a muslin. I also print off the summary, the pattern pieces (to fit page), the yardage and layout. I also go through the construction of the garment in my head, everything from the cutting (how many, and in what fabric for each pattern piece) to the hemming; I type and print that too. I have a nifty little binder where I keep it all. It's divided according to garment type. I can't wait until it's full! I purchased some patternmaking tools from PGM so when I have a pattern that's passed all the tests, I trace it out in oak tag, and then punch and hang it up with pattern hooks.
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-21 9:21 PM (#88867 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
pelli73 - 2010-09-12 8:14 PM

A quesiton for the experts
I'd love to make this Vintage Vogue pattern using PMB, because I'd really like it to fit when I get it done ...
Carole


Carole,

I love and actually bought this pattern but have not yet made anything from it. I actually think I have lost the pattern now since I couldn't find it the last time I cleaned up and organized. I would love to know if you ever achieved a final draft that actually worked.

If you did, could you post your file? I would love to see it.
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ursula
Posted 2014-10-22 10:31 AM (#88871 - in reply to #66284)
Subject: RE: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Elite Veteran

Posts: 616
500100
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Hello, Rowena. I miss you on the forum.
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-22 11:20 PM (#88889 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

I decided to make this a practice project to learn the program better. I have no illusions that I know what I am doing but I have an idea based on Catina's tee shirt conversion video on YouTube. I have an idea of what needs to be done, alot of aligning, arcs, breaking, etc. I have no idea how the finished garment will work...or not...but I have nothing but time here to work on this.

I am going to guess it will take me a few weeks...months...but that is ok. So far here is what I have done. I created the following garment in PMB.

Style Summary: Vogue_Vintage_Arcs_Blazer

 

 

   Chart:

 

Amy Thomas

   Program:

Boutique v6

   ate Saved:

10/22/2014

   Last Update:

October 10, 2014

   Units:

Inches

 

Style

 

   Garment Type:

Jacket

   Style:

Classic

   Center Back Shape:

Shaped

   Front Neckline:

Straight Vee

   Back Neckline:

Jewel

   Closure:

Single Breasted

   Jacket Length:

Short

   Waist Fit:

Fitted

   Hemline Sweep:

Straight

 

Darts

 

   Front Darts:

Princess Panel

   Back Darts:

Princess Panel

   Front Dart Style:

Straight

   Back Dart Style:

Straight

   Front Torso Darts:

1

   Back Torso Darts:

1

 

   Upper Front Dart Length:

1

   Lower Front Dart Length:

3

   Upper Back Dart Length:

1

   Lower Back Dart Length:

6

   Back Shoulder Dart Length:

3

 

   art Override:

0

   Bust Cup Adjustment:

0.188

 

   Bust Pt Vertical:

11.25

   Bust Pt Horizontal:

4.25

 

   Shoulder Dart Position:

0

   First Back Dart Position:

3

 

Sleeves

 

   Sleeve Style:

Set In

   Sleeve Underarm Seam:

Tapered

   Sleeve Hemline Shape:

Straight

   Sleeve Length:

Wrist

   Sleeve Placket:

No Placket

   Sleeve Underarm Length:

17

   Sleeve Hem Circumference:

8

   Sleeve Hem Allowance:

2

   Sleeve Elbow Depth:

8

   Sleeve Elbow Circum.:

10

   Sleeve Cap Ease:

0.84

 

Details

 

   Hemline Shape:

Rounded

 

Settings

 

   Seam Allowance:

0.625

   Hem Allowance:

2

   Facing Width:

2

 

   Chest Ease:

2.5

   Waist Ease:

1

   Hip Ease:

3

 

   Front Neckline Depth:

5

   Back Neckline Depth:

0.25

   Neckline Width:

0.25

   Neckline Point:

0

 

   Side/Arm Point:

0

   Side/Waist Point:

0

   Side/Hip Point:

0

 

   Finished Cb/Hem Length:

23

   Armhole Depth:

0

   Hip Depth:

8

 

   Shoulder Height:

0

   Shoulder Length:

0

   Shoulder Point:

0

 

   Cf/Extension:

0

   Cb/Extension

0

   Button Size:

0.5

   Number of Buttons:

3

 

 

In PE I arranged the front pieces and back pieces together, in order, to see where the crescents for each princess panel should go. To start with, I notice that the front curve is much shallower and extends further towards the sides of the jacket. After a bit of fussing, I think the front curve now looks pretty good. The wide part of the hem has now been moved back into the front side panel. Now, this is as far as I am going to go for the moment. I need to really look at this pattern and try to get an idea of how wide these arcs are and about where they are placed. That will take alot of trial and error, I think but once I have something I like, I will post.



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-10-22 11:26 PM




(vogue1019-1.jpg)



(vogue1019-2.jpg)



(vogue1019-4.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments vogue1019-1.jpg (76KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments vogue1019-2.jpg (94KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments vogue1019-4.jpg (94KB - 0 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-10-23 9:19 AM (#88891 - in reply to #88889)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Expert

Posts: 1984
1000500100100100100252525
Location: Norman,OK

Hi Lisa, If you're going to do a lot of editing, change your seam allowance preference to zero. It will be much less confusing. You'll find that in settings. Looks like your off to a good start. Take Karen's reminder to heart!!

Coopie

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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-23 4:53 PM (#88897 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Excellent point, Patricia. All those seam allowances were starting to confuggle me. Eliminating them really helped! Like I said, I really don't know what I am doing here, this is more to learn the functions of the program. If I actually produce a wearable pattern, all the better!

Starting over. After all, this is practice and starting over is part of the process.

Karen's reminder? I didn't see that.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2014-10-23 5:48 PM (#88899 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Tech Support

50005000100010025
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Please do a fit garment to verify your measurements and check for any defaults you would like to set. It's fun to play in PE, but sad if it doesn't fit as you would like it to.
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-23 6:29 PM (#88902 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oh, ok yes, of course I will. Thanks for the reminder, Karen.

Let's start with this instead.

I redid the pattern to print without the seams and lengthened it about 4" for room for the slylelines (thanks for the pointer!).

Grouped into front and back sections, aligned seams from hip down.

Added waist and hip line markers.

Measured each pattern piece at the hipline.




(new.voguePE-1.jpg)



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Attachments new.voguePE-1.jpg (59KB - 0 downloads)
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2014-10-23 7:59 PM (#88907 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Tech Support

50005000100010025
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
But, if your chart is not right, all this work is just for practice.
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-23 10:37 PM (#88909 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Yes, this is just for practice to get to know the commands and everything. If I were to do it for a fashion garment, a muslin sloper would have to be fit first and many more measurements and fine tuning of placements would be required.

I did put some placement lines such as for the hemline and jacket finished length according to the information on the back of the pattern (thanks Vogue patterns online!).




(new.voguePE-4.jpg)



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Attachments new.voguePE-4.jpg (71KB - 0 downloads)
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-24 1:34 AM (#88910 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Well, it didn't take as long as I thought but this is really rough. I did check some measurements along the seam lines though and everything lines up well. Next step, create the facings, print and sew up on a muslin.

Edited by lhaase0217 2014-10-24 1:36 AM




(new.voguePE-final.jpg)



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Attachments new.voguePE-final.jpg (60KB - 1 downloads)
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-24 2:19 AM (#88911 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Opps, wrong front draft. This is much better.



(new.voguePE-final.jpg)



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Attachments new.voguePE-final.jpg (80KB - 0 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-10-24 9:03 PM (#88914 - in reply to #88911)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Expert

Posts: 1984
1000500100100100100252525
Location: Norman,OK
Hi Lisa, very nicely done! Can you show me where you added the extra fullness across the lower back?
Post an las. file if you would like feed back.
Coopie
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-25 1:11 AM (#88919 - in reply to #88914)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
2525
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

cfonfold - 2014-10-24 8:03 PM Hi Lisa, very nicely done! Can you show me where you added the extra fullness across the lower back? Post an las. file if you would like feed back. Coopie

 I just did a quick slash and pivot in a couple of places.  It is rough, I am sure the draping would not really hang properly if this were to be constructed but, as a means to understand the program, I am pleased with the result.

 The LAS file is too big to upload. I will try and whittle it down and upload later.

Lisa H

 



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-10-25 1:19 AM




Attachments
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Attachments Vogue_Vintage_Side_Wrapped_Blazer.las (69KB - 1 downloads)
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