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Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-07 4:03 AM (#89038 - in reply to #89028)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Karen Maslowski - 2014-11-06 9:40 AM Well, here's the problem. You've done all this work, but without making the fitting garment first to check your measurements. Any tweaks you needed to make cannot be applied to your PE work without serious cutting and pasting. If you had STARTED with a tweaked measurement set, and then done the PE work, the garment would fit you perfectly with no more adjustments.

 Respectfully Karen, I disagree for the following reason It is most likely a construction issue since it is only on 1 side of the body. If it were a drafting issue, it would have appeared on both sides of the back in that same area. I would think that the re-drafting would work on whatever measurements were put in to draft the raw pattern pieces from. Now, I did have to do a slash/pivot on the side darting between the very center back panel and the next one but that only added about 1/2" to the bottom hemline.

Having said that, I'm very impressed that you were able to do the changes so well that it looks very similar to the vintage pattern.

Thank you very much. Coming from you and Christina, that is high praise indeed. At the risk of sounding insufferable, I guess my 45 years of sewing experience, as well as my 20 years of graphic and web design experience, has really paid off with this program. It just "clicked" with me. I never understood geometry either, failed it twice in high school, until I studied Astrology. Then all those degrees and angles made sense. I am not trying to sound superior, I am just one of those people who get and want to share my excitement with someone else. Very few people I know sew so you all, my friends, are who I have to share with.

 

I submitted my dress fit garment for review. I have made my pants fit garment and will submit it for review tomorrow.

Time to watch Project Runway AllStars! Thank goodness for DVR's!

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cfonfold
Posted 2014-11-07 5:44 AM (#89039 - in reply to #89034)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



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Hi LisaH, the left side is shaped beautifully over the hip! Add the shoulder pads as Cristina suggests and the shoulder will fill out nicely. THe wrinkles are probably stitching problems. Muslin isn't the most willing fabric to be eased!

Are you planning to add the strap effect over the shoulder?  It's a strong design element. Actually are you planning to make this up to wear? Can't wait to see. Nice set of lines on you.

Good job,

Coopie

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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2014-11-07 8:49 AM (#89041 - in reply to #89038)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Member

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Well, I'm glad it worked for you! It's such an incredibly challenging project, and you've done an amazing job of it. I was just very nervous for all your hard work. :-)
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-07 9:55 AM (#89042 - in reply to #89039)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


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Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
cfonfold - 2014-11-07 4:44 AM

Hi LisaH, the left side is shaped beautifully over the hip! Add the shoulder pads as Cristina suggests and the shoulder will fill out nicely. THe wrinkles are probably stitching problems. Muslin isn't the most willing fabric to be eased!

Are you planning to add the strap effect over the shoulder?  It's a strong design element. Actually are you planning to make this up to wear? Can't wait to see. Nice set of lines on you.

Good job,

Coopie

Coopie,

Yes, the left side wasn't that bad at all, just the right and if you looked closely, you would see the seam "tab" that I didn't quite get into the inside of the garment. I pulled up the shoulder points to indicate thin shoulder pads and it did eliminate the wrinkles along the front. Overall, I am happy with my efforts and really won't mind duplicating them. There are still some issues I want to address before I cut into the fabric.

I have this  lovely tan polyester fabric I picked up at Walmart a few years ago that I just have not done anything with yet. It is mid weight and a bit flow y which I think would look great in the peplum area. I am just not so sure about the jacket body and whether or not it would need a fusible interlining to stiffen it up a bit. The photo of the jacket made up seems stiff. The fabric recommendations are all wool but I think that might just be a sign of the 40's?

I am also considering a 2 tone. I have a rust colored sheer that would look lovely as the peplum. Maybe contrasting piping of the rust along the princess panel seam lines? I am still trying to visualize which would look classy and which would look like just a project.

 



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-11-07 10:00 AM
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-08 4:29 PM (#89047 - in reply to #88952)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Cristina - 2014-10-27 9:37 AM . Did you found the solution to save the layout sheet you created ( youtube )?

No and Lisa and I looked at it. She could not duplicate the problem either on her machine. It may be my  computer settings although I can't imagine why one portion of the program works fine but the other doesn't. Makes no sense to me.

As far as my actually relying on any information in the yardage calculator, I lay patterns myself. Very seldom do I rely on the Delcor provided with patterns other than some of the construction tips and instructions.

Lisa did suggest that at least I can save the layout in PDF format if I really needed to save a layout. It would be nice, however, to have everything working properly. I do keep getting some errors while working and the program freezes for a bit.

I equate that to it being a new program. I don't know if v5 was based on the same programming language as ver6.

Either way, I get what I need out of the program. Eventually Lisa will figure it out and provide an update for it.



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-11-08 4:35 PM
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Cristina
Posted 2014-11-08 6:59 PM (#89048 - in reply to #89047)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Extreme Veteran

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Hi LisaH,

Did Lisa said that she can Save the Layout
while you can't yet save yours as Vintage-Vogue-Layout ?
Maybe soon you want to go from muslin to fabric and you need the already saved Layout.

Cristina
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-08 8:45 PM (#89050 - in reply to #89025)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Cristina - 2014-11-05 7:06 PM

Hi LisaH,

the back flared piece may be constructed also as to

slash the basic bottom part in 4 places like rays starting point somewhere on the sideseam

and landing on the hem line, creating 1" openings along the hem line of the panel

so you get the best distribution of the flares in the fabric

Cristina

Ok, now that Karen has helped me fine tune my fit garment (the one I thought I had did not work out afterall), I am ready to create the true pattern. As I have mentioned, the peplum is really the challenge here, at least for me. From the photos of the jacket sewn up real time, the peplum seems really stiff through it's center back seam. I tried it on the grainline in my 1st muslin and changed it so that the center back lies on the bias instead.

So here I am, trying to figure out where to put the slash and pivot lines to create the drape. I know that the side seam must lay on the straight of grain. On the portion that used to be the back panel, I divided the width of the hemline into 1/4's and placed points at 1/4 and 1/2 from the center back seamline. I feel if I go too much further towards the side seams on the pivots, it won't look right.

After drawing the lines and intersecting them, I am at this point. How much to pivot at the hemline? On your tee-shirt conversion, you used 1" on your pivots. Should I add more pivot lines? I am thinking of using a sheer for the peplum. Will that even matter as far as how much to pivot? Ultimately, I would like to see 3-4 nice drapes to the peplum.



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-11-08 8:49 PM




Attachments
----------------
Attachments peplum.las (3KB - 7 downloads)
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-09 2:09 AM (#89051 - in reply to #89048)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
I did manage to correct the glitch with saving the layout in Yardage Calculator. I had a random (blankfilename).lyt file in the layouts folder. I simply deleted it and now everything works just fine.
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Cristina
Posted 2014-11-09 8:06 PM (#89053 - in reply to #89050)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Extreme Veteran

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Try 1" each, testing only the bottom panel
to check the draping on a thin testing fabric
- and chose the aspect you want
- less flare-formal, maxim drape-joyful.
Your project is an inspiration to us.

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2014-11-09 8:09 PM
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-10 7:07 PM (#89055 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

I went to Hancock Fabrics to get some thread, lining fabric and buttons for this project. Here is a photo of my materials. I picked up that plaid thinking it might make an interesting lining. The lightest lining fabric I thought to put in the sleeves as they won't show like the body lining.

I originally drafted the center front panels for a 1/2" button so I need to redraft that panel and print. I also shortened up the back panel dart that was 6" long to 4" long. My reasoning is that since that dart at 6" migrated into the peplum and I wanted to avoid having to do some slash and pivots to that area to close it off.

The buttons.....oh my the buttons! Because the style lines of this jacket are what makes this jacket special, I wanted some nice buttons that would blend into the over color scheme, not be a glaring addition so I went with these stone look buttons. Kinda reminds me of marble.

I will post photos along the way of construction. First is the muslin.



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-11-10 7:10 PM




(arcs.jacket.materials.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments arcs.jacket.materials.jpg (77KB - 0 downloads)
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Cristina
Posted 2014-11-10 10:41 PM (#89057 - in reply to #89055)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Extreme Veteran

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Hi LisaH,

Following brief measurements I used Cameo
to make the Human Croquis
for you to compare your patterns with your "new dress form".

Place your pattern along the Template
to see how your patterns are following the laws of proportions

The file I would like to attach is a DXF file
which can be opened in PM 4
and saved as las
so you can open it in PM6,

Is there anybody here who has PM 4 to convert LisaH Croquis into las
and send it to LisaH? I'll send the dxf to your email, friend!

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2014-11-10 10:42 PM
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-27 6:06 PM (#89142 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Well, I finally finished this jacket. Here are the photos.



(arcs.jacket.fnished.front.jpg)



(arcs.jacket.finished.back.jpg)



(arcs.jacket.finished.side.jpg)



(arcs.jacket.finished.lining.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments arcs.jacket.fnished.front.jpg (43KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments arcs.jacket.finished.back.jpg (34KB - 3 downloads)
Attachments arcs.jacket.finished.side.jpg (39KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments arcs.jacket.finished.lining.jpg (63KB - 0 downloads)
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Grandma C
Posted 2014-11-28 1:17 AM (#89145 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Elite Veteran

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Just lovely!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great design
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thistles
Posted 2014-11-28 12:26 PM (#89147 - in reply to #89142)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



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That's a beautiful design.  Very nice work!
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-28 2:32 PM (#89148 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Thank you, Ladies. I was happy with the way it turned out. I accidentally snipped the lining near the peplum seam and had to bolster it with interfacing and a zig-zag satin stitch but no one but me (and you all, now) will ever know of it. I have another vintage pattern I want to reproduce but that is for another thread.

This was so much fun that even my son noticed how much I am enjoying it. So much so, that, when we get a bit ahead, he is going to buy me the men's wear program so I can make him Tee Shirts to fit (he is really long waisted and broad shouldered) and jeans/pants that will fit over his huge calves. And a blazer, he says. LOL
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margie2
Posted 2014-11-28 4:07 PM (#89149 - in reply to #89148)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Elite Veteran

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LisaH, it a lovely jacket! Have to ask...Why didn't you use the plaid lining? I love patterned linings and try to use one whenever I can. I can see that with all the seams the plaid might end up not looking as nice as the solid.

Margie
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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-11-30 6:52 PM (#89163 - in reply to #89149)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Margie,

I, too, loved the plaid and I think I could have matched it at the hemline fairly well. I thought to just use the solid on the peplum. The problem was that the plaid was actually a drapery fabric, rather stiff and heavier than my fashion fabric. Since I added interlining (Tailor's Magic or something) to make it a bit more tailored, I felt the heavy plaid would have been just too much.

Also, I showed it to my son and asked him if he wanted some new curtains in his room and he wants the plaid for the lining in a new blazer for him. He has promised to buy me the mens wear program so I can sew for him. 

 



Edited by lhaase0217 2014-11-30 6:54 PM
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margie2
Posted 2014-11-30 7:57 PM (#89164 - in reply to #89163)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Elite Veteran

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That plaid will make a great lining for a blazer! Good choice.
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-12-01 8:48 AM (#89169 - in reply to #89148)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



Expert

Posts: 1984
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Location: Norman,OK
Nice job LisaH! And the seaming over the hip area is really beautiful.
Coopie
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cindysews
Posted 2014-12-03 6:53 PM (#89174 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



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Wow! Amazing workmanship!
Cindy
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TessainGabriola
Posted 2014-12-03 10:44 PM (#89176 - in reply to #89163)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?



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lhaase0217 - 2014-11-30 3:52 PM

Also, I showed it to my son and asked him if he wanted some new curtains in his room and he wants the plaid for the lining in a new blazer for him. He has promised to buy me the mens wear program so I can sew for him.  

  

 

Ha!  You are soo done!!!   He's right though - you do beautiful  work.   (And you have raised a son who appreciates beautiful work!)

 

Tessa

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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-12-10 7:42 PM (#89227 - in reply to #66281)
Subject: Re: Vintage Vogue pattern-how would you do this in PMB?


Regular

Posts: 72
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Thanks everyone. I wear it no matter whether I am wearing cool or warm colors, I don't care if it matches I really like it. The ladies at Hancocks really liked it as well and I have been telling them about this program. I am a walking billboard for PMB!!

Yes Tessa, I am done. I have already been drafted to make him lots of Tee-Shirts that actually fit his long torso so he can take them to a local silk screen printer and get custom prints on them. He is weird, at nearly 30 he still loves Ninja Turtles and still watches cartoons. Strange child.
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