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neckline and armhole facing
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gallinio
Posted 2010-06-23 4:10 PM (#62962)
Subject: neckline and armhole facing



Regular

Posts: 94
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Location: cyprus

Hi has anyone got experience of doing a one piece neckline and armhole facing. I have cut it and joined the pieces and it fits into the area it is going to be stiched into perfectly but I dont know which part to stitch first. the armhole or the neckline and thereafter Im stuck.

I tried doing the armhole first and what a tangle!

I opted for this method for the first time as I wanted to try something different to neckline facing and bias binding in the armhole.

Any help will be appreciated!

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rosemary
Posted 2010-06-23 7:00 PM (#62963 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



Certified Educator

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Location: Houston, TX
If I understand correctly you will need to sew neckline and armholes leaving the shoulders unsewn until after you have turned the garment right side out. The facing side of the shoulders will need to be hand finished. I hope this makes sense and is what you need.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-23 7:24 PM (#62964 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK

Be exceedingly careful to stitch very accurate seams.

 Stitch the front facing to the front and turn so that it is finished except for the shoulders. Stitch the back facing to the back, (or backs) but do not turn.

Clip and trim all the back seams if that is your usual method. Take care that your seams are accurate.

Slip the fronts into the backs at the open shoulders. At this point you can either match the seams and stitch around the tube formed by the shoulders. Or you can simply stitch straight across the shoulder seam.

THe first is of course harder and makes the prettier seam. THe second is perfectly usuable for everyday wear and children's clothing. And is very usful in makeing vests as well by the way.

That leaves the side seam, which can be finished by opening the facing and stitching as part of the side seam.

Coopie

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rosemary
Posted 2010-06-23 8:31 PM (#62966 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



Certified Educator

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500
Location: Houston, TX
Just to say I prefer Coopie's method to mine! How clever. Thank you, Coopie.
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gallinio
Posted 2010-06-24 1:10 AM (#62969 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Location: cyprus

Thank you so much. I will try it today.

I will probably ask more questions about it once I start.

Eva

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pldesigns
Posted 2010-06-24 6:45 AM (#62970 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Location: Holyoke, MA

You can also sew this like a lined vest, if your garment has a cf or cb opening. Trim a scant 1/8 off the seam allowances of the facing at the neckline and armholes.   Sew the shoulders together on both the top and the facing. Place them right sides together.  Stitch  the neckline , stitch the armholes.  Trim, grade , clip and press the seams open as best you can. ( using a little rolled up piece of wool is helpful to get into the tight spots, at the shoulder seam) Reaching through the shoulder seam, pull the sections with the opening through them so the garment is right side out. Keeping  the seam allowances in the same direction , sew the side seams of both the garment and the facing in one continuous pass.  Clip the side seam right at ther underarm juncture.  This method also works well on a lined, sleeveless dress.

Sue

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gallinio
Posted 2010-07-04 7:26 AM (#63089 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



Regular

Posts: 94
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Location: cyprus
Hi I am back with a query.
Coopie I do not understand the part where you say "Slip the fronts into the backs "at the open shoulders. do you mean the cf piece into where? It is a sheath with a zip at the back. If it is possible could you elaborate, I am a amateur still!
Thanks Eva
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-07-04 12:51 PM (#63090 - in reply to #63089)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Location: Norman,OK

Place the finished piece--front or back -- on top of the unfinished one. Then lift the facing and slide the finished front shoulder --(or back as the case may be)-- between the back (or front ) and it's facing at the shoulder. If you have been accurate in your stitching they should match. I usually pin these together so I can check that I have the fronts and backs correctly matched. Don't laugh! I've taken out a lot of stitching in my day!

 Then either stitch across the shoulder seam or open the two so that they make a tube  and stitch around it. I choose depending on how wide the shoulder seam is. Very narrow---stitch across. Wide-- stitch in a circle. This choice also depends on how accurate I have been. Sometimes you can hide an excess on the facing side. 

This really takes longer to say than to do!! I went back and reread your question. It doesn't matter if there is a zipper or not. Still works the same way, only with two backs instead of one.

Coopie



Edited by cfonfold 2010-07-04 12:54 PM
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gallinio
Posted 2010-07-07 5:37 AM (#63108 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Posts: 94
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Location: cyprus
Thanks Coopie. I was away for a few days. I will try it tonight and give you feedback. Much appreciated!
Eva
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gallinio
Posted 2010-07-16 6:48 AM (#63245 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Location: cyprus
Thank you Coopie! It worked out great. It took me a while to work out because im more of a visual person. The finished result looks so professional. My biggest problem was that I had stitched the side seams already and I had automatically joined the front and back facing together as I usually do.
Eva


Edited by gallinio 2010-07-16 6:49 AM
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-07-16 9:53 AM (#63261 - in reply to #63245)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



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Location: Norman,OK

I'm glad it worked out! I was actually thinking about you this morning and wondering if you were left puzzled and confused!Often what seems simple to me is complicated to another.

 As to the side seams etc. ---streamlining your production process is an on-going thing. The more you sew the easier it is to see the best "next" steps for you. I often do things completely out of  "order" simply because I am too lazy to get up and press just then!

 One of the things I try to teach is to think as you go, stitching everything you can before you take it all to the ironing table. In a shop, you have to take turns with some of the equipment. And it drives me nuts to see people standing in line to press one seam before they move on---when it is perfectly obvious that there are darts that could be stitched while waiting or gathering threads that could be sewn---or some other next step to be taken. And this is certainly one way to improve your speed and accuracy.

Coopie

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gallinio
Posted 2010-07-16 10:37 AM (#63268 - in reply to #62962)
Subject: RE: neckline and armhole facing



Regular

Posts: 94
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Location: cyprus
I am learning so much from this forum and the software as I was never taught to sew and the patternmaking classes I have done are so basic.
I wish I had found Wildginger before.
I bought my software last year but was "nervous" to try it, but now Im raring to go!
Thanks again!
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