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How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-03 10:07 AM (#62783 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Coopie - I like your method a lot better than mine so I will try it that way today.  What got me so disgusted last night was that I knew PMB drafts kimono and dolman styles without transferring all of the dart out of the side seam on my patterns.  This has been a real learning experience.

This is the description from Textile Studio website:  "Romantic long and flowing dress features a U shaped neckline, semi-fitted bodice with soft V shaped waistline with darts in front & back. The 3/4 circle skirt has a V shaped hem. The pattern includes long and short sleeve options. Sewing time 2 1/2hours."

The designer suggests washing the garment and then allowing it to drip dry in order to get it to hang/drape correctly.

This dress hangs fairly straight but has a pleasant swish when walking and doesn't restrict your stride.

P.S.  Don't pay any attention to what I posted about setting the flare to 8 and getting a 3/4 circle skirt.  That is only true if I want a 16 inch skirt length.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-03 11:03 AM (#62784 - in reply to #62783)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

What is the difference between your side seams ? If it is .5 or less just let it ease it'self in. The bias in that area should do that fairly naturally.

And now anathama!--if it's more--just change it! How much shape do you want at the side? Is one seam more curved ? And remember the goal here is to get a dress that you like to wear. Drafting the perfect pattern is not! Agonizing takes all the fun away.

All custom work must be tweaked somewhat. Even if I felt the pattern was perfect--ha,ha,--I would cut the muslin with large side seams and pin fit to my very unique body. Custom work 'ya know.

Coopie

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rebells
Posted 2010-06-03 1:38 PM (#62786 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
I am now working from the sheath because it gives me better control of the waist. I fiddled with the sleeve length until I found the one that made the side seams almost the same.  It is less aggravating for me to shorten a sleeve than to redraw a side seam.

I have a question:  I have transferred the waist dart to the hem.  If I redraw the hem arc from front to side seam some areas are longer than they were before.  Do I redraw the entire hem or just fill in the gap made by the transfer?
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-03 3:20 PM (#62787 - in reply to #62786)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Good choices! Always play to your strength! You prefer to shorten sleeves---I prefer to adjust the side! The hem could be either a curve or a straight line. I think it is straight. Check the original. And you might measure the width at the hem. I really should have turned the skirt pattern pieces so that they indicated that the CF & CB were on the bias. Bad technique on my part.

Good luck on your muslin work.

Coopie



Edited by cfonfold 2010-06-03 3:21 PM

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ursula
Posted 2010-06-04 9:12 AM (#62794 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Elite Veteran

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Location: Cape Town, South Africa
From all the pictures and diagrams I can see what the dress is like, but what exactly is the meaning of the name of the dress? i.e. TS Barcelona dress? Sometimes it seems like you have a secrect code in America, quite hard to crack when you live in darkest Africa!! Would someone explain to me, please?

Ursula
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-04 9:16 AM (#62795 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Ready to cut the bodice muslin today.  Here is my pattern, so far:



(20100604barcelona_done_forum1.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 20100604barcelona_done_forum.dxf (39KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments 20100604barcelona_done_forum1.jpg (52KB - 7 downloads)
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-04 9:34 AM (#62797 - in reply to #62794)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Ursula - It is the Barcelona dress pattern published by Textile Studios and designed by Loes Hinse.  I have no idea why it is called the Barcelona.  A lot of independent pattern companies give their patterns names rather than numbers.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-04 9:42 AM (#62798 - in reply to #62795)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Wow! "You've come a long way baby"! Or are you too young to remember that?

This looks like a good set of patternwork. And this is also the point where my stomach begins to hurt---'till the fitting is over!

Keep telling yurself--custom work--a tweak here and there.

Coopie

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rebells
Posted 2010-06-04 3:25 PM (#62806 - in reply to #62798)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Its about the right age.
 
Good thing for muslins.  I thought I was just going to be testing to make sure the top went over my head easily and the darts and everything were in the right places.  The darts are where they should be and the waist appears to hang level.  But the sleeve slants down so much that movement is very restricted.  I knew my draft sloped more than the original but I didn't think it mattered.  Boy, was I wrong!  Measuring from the same spot, mine slopes over three inches and the original slopes one inch.  I only printed and sewed the two pieces that make up the torso so there wasn't a big investment in time or materials.  I will never use the kimono draft again.

To whoever suggested using the dolman style, thank you.  I think I will.  At least I won't have to start all over.  I can use the same settings then take it into Pattern Editor.  I should be able to overlay the previous work right on the new dolman sheath. 

And to whoever suggested that the side seam was above the waist, I think you are right.  After closer examination of the original pattern and observing my muslin I think the side seam needs to go up 1/2 to 1 inch.

I may never get this dress sewn.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-04 4:42 PM (#62807 - in reply to #62806)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK

may never get this dress sewn.

Of course you will!

Coopie

Profile Private message
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Marilyn R in IL
Posted 2010-06-05 9:16 AM (#62808 - in reply to #62806)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



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You're helping all of us!
Marilyn
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-05 11:27 AM (#62811 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

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Location: Minneapolis, MN
The second muslin is much better than the first.  This one is very comfortable.  There are some changes I am going to try.  I think it would look nicer if I removed some of the fabric folds by angling the sleeve down one inch and removing a bit of the chest ease.  I also found that I don't particularly care for the u shaped neckline so I will raise it up to more of a shallow basin.

There is one fitting issue.  The neckline gapes outward.  How do I correct for a shallow chest?




(20100604_Barcelona_Torso_bodice.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 20100604_Barcelona_Torso_bodice.jpg (56KB - 4 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-05 12:07 PM (#62812 - in reply to #62811)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Great job! At the neck pin a dart that snugs up the neckline. and then move and add it to the waist dart. You can ease a bit out when sewing --but it's always best to get rid of at least some. Depends on how much there is.

If the amount is a great deal, it might be fun to ----at another time perhaps---move the waist dart to the neck line instead and add a drawstring or just gather it!

Well you have learned a lot about kimonos and dolmans --how they are alike and how they are different---, which now gives you the knowledge to make  choices----I can hardly wait to see the dress when finished!

Could you post your dxf files? I'd like to compare them to the others you posted. Am curious about the ease factor.

Coopie



Edited by cfonfold 2010-06-05 12:10 PM
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-05 3:09 PM (#62813 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

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Location: Minneapolis, MN
On second thought I don't think I will angle the sleeve down any.  Setting the chest ease to 0 only decreases the bodice by one inch total.  Not much difference.  I made the muslin out of cotton left over from a table cloth.  The folds will look better in a softer fabric.

Star burst darts or pleats at the neckline would look nice, on the next project.




Attachments
----------------
Attachments 20100604_Barcelona_Torso_bodice.dxf (28KB - 13 downloads)
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-22 12:38 PM (#62955 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


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Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
After a much needed break, I am working on this again.  This morning I started on the skirt.  Originally I left one waist dart unsewn and rotated the second one into the hem.  This gives me too much fullness.  Is there anything wrong with getting rid of the dart by moving the side or front over?


Edited by rebells 2010-06-22 12:42 PM




(20100622BarcelonsViewA_Torsowork8_2.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 20100622BarcelonsViewA_Torsowork8_2.jpg (34KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments 20100622BarcelonsViewA_Torsowork8_2.dxf (11KB - 2 downloads)
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Patti
Posted 2010-06-23 12:52 AM (#62956 - in reply to #62795)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



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rebells - 2010-06-04 5:16 AM

Ready to cut the bodice muslin today.  Here is my pattern, so far:


Hi, Rebels: thanks for bringing this up. QUESTION: I see you've done something to the bodice underarms of front and back. What did you do and why? What was your final pattern?

I think I need this since the kimona and dolman draft for my measurements looks wonky. Thank you.
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-23 8:18 AM (#62957 - in reply to #62956)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Good morning Patti,

I just drew an arc under one arm and then used it on both.  The muslin of that draft, kimono style, was way too constricting so I switched to the dolman style.  That muslin fit well except for a few tweaks. 

When I was working with the kimono style I fiddled with the sleeve length until the underarm and side seams were almost equal.  That was a mistake because it made the sleeve come down to my elbow and I could hardly move my arms.  A better way would have been to put the sleeve length where I wanted it and then redrawn the underarm.

I haven't got a final pattern yet.  Right now I am working on the skirt draft. 

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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-23 9:34 AM (#62958 - in reply to #62955)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

The dart is probably small enough to "smoosh". Just fold it out and press it till it disappears. I do it all the time.  Or ease it lightly across the seam.

Coopie

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rebells
Posted 2010-06-23 1:14 PM (#62960 - in reply to #62958)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Thank you.  I know i am probably over thinking this but here is another skirt question:  The original pattern has  the bodice dipping down 3 inches and the skirt waist seam curving up slightly like a circle skirt.  It does not curve down like mine.  The side, straight grain & on fold, is 1.5 inches longer than the center front seam.  This is a puzzle to me.  Perhaps this makes the skirt hang differently?

It looks to me like the centers of the skirt hang lower than just 1.5 inches in the picture.  I know from making it that the centers hang lower than that.  Stretching as it hangs or just looks longer than it actually is? 

The bodice is okay but the strange dimensions of the skirt have me concerned.


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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-06-23 1:22 PM (#62961 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Tech Support

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I wonder if you should do a "like" dress but not an exact copy.

Maybe something totally different but the "midi" length that you want.

I have found when I try to duplicate a favorite, it's never the same.

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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-23 7:39 PM (#62965 - in reply to #62667)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

I really agree with Karen here. There are too many variables at work to promise a perfect reproduction. Particularly since you are enlarging the pattern. And using a different fabric. I could go on and on.

However, if this design has become a learning device---and I do wholeheartedly approve of this teaching method--- then it would help if we could see the line drawing that normally accompanies a purchased pattern. Words often leave much to be desired----or simply guessed at. I think we have all learned a lot from this thread. I have anyway! And I am anxious to see the finished product. Keep on truckin' Rebells

Coopie

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rebells
Posted 2010-06-23 10:08 PM (#62967 - in reply to #62965)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Thank you Coopie and Karen.  What makes this design worth the effort for me is the way the skirt hangs.  The second time I made the original pattern I removed the skirt to make an alteration to the bodice.  When I replaced the skirt I mistakenly put the center seam at the side.  It no longer swished. It was a totally different skirt.  i removed it and put it back on the right way.  If the hang of the skirt is because the straight of grain is at the side and nothing else then I will just make it up as is.  I know absolutely nothing about pattern design or fabric but I do like to solve puzzles.

By line drawing do you mean the drawings of the pattern pieces?  I don't have a scanner but I know someone who does.

Yes this is a learning experience.  I could have enlarged the pattern in a more traditional manner but then I still wouldn't know how to make anything but skirts with this software.
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-06-23 11:19 PM (#62968 - in reply to #62967)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

By line drawing do you mean the drawings of the pattern pieces?  Yes. Seeing the pattern pieces would help solve the mystry of the funny shape. Pattern makers see shapes very differently. And many have much, much more experience and exposure to more sophistcated designs the I have. It is always interesting to see how some one else might solve the problem! It's how we learn. Shifting the straight of grain in a gored skirt is a classic way of flattening in one area and forcing fullness in another. 

I think you have done very well. I am always interested in unusual cuts. I think that the dress as you have it configured would provide a very wearable and likable dress.  Lengthening the skirt at the center front and back ,making the hem a straight line instead of curved would get you where you want to be perhaps?

Coopie

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rebells
Posted 2010-06-25 10:43 AM (#62983 - in reply to #62968)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
I forgot that I could just take a picture of the line drawings!  The waist seam looks a lot like my PMB darted flared skirt, the regular waist with the dart transferred to the hem.



(compare-waist.jpg)



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Attachments compare-waist.jpg (13KB - 2 downloads)
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rebells
Posted 2010-06-25 10:44 AM (#62984 - in reply to #62983)
Subject: RE: How do I copy the TS Barcelona dress?


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
I am thinking that the different waist seam shapes of the bodice and skirt is to make it hang slightly like a flounce.


Edited by rebells 2010-06-25 10:46 AM




(compare-flounce.jpg)



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Attachments compare-flounce.jpg (16KB - 2 downloads)
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