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gathering a knit fabric
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magenta
Posted 2010-01-31 2:54 AM (#60942)
Subject: gathering a knit fabric



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Hello people.

I'm making a knit skirt gathered onto a yoke. Do I gather by elongating the stitch and loosening the top tension, as with a woven, or is there a trick to this? Thanks for any ideas.

Sarah
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-01-31 8:16 AM (#60943 - in reply to #60942)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric


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You can do that, Sarah, or you can also use "plus ease" kind of sewing. This involves lengthening the stitch, and placing your left index finger firmly behind the presser foot as you sew. Holding the fabric down to the plate forces more fabric into each stitch, effectively easing the fabric.

I use this technique for sleeve heads, or for short distances of gathers, as in a shoulder or underbust.

Hope this helps!
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magenta
Posted 2010-02-01 5:31 PM (#60977 - in reply to #60943)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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Thanks Karen. As there was a lot to gather I used the conventional method and it worked well. I'm making a double- sided tutu style skirt for my hairdresser with one side 'day' and the other side 'party'. Will post pictures in album when finished.

Sarah
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carolelgin
Posted 2010-02-03 10:24 AM (#61021 - in reply to #60943)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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Is this "Plus Ease" for knits only? Sounds like something to try.

Thanks!

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rowena___.
Posted 2010-02-03 10:28 AM (#61022 - in reply to #61021)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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i know this as "ease plus", and it is for any fabric.  

when i need to gather a lot of fabric really quickly and i don't feel like fussing with my gadgets, i just set the machine for a long stitch length and i turn the needle thread tension really high.  it gathers on it's own.


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Fashions by Joellyn
Posted 2010-02-03 11:55 AM (#61023 - in reply to #61022)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric


Good idea, Rowena--thanks!
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-02-03 1:18 PM (#61025 - in reply to #61022)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric


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Yes, it's "Ease Plus".

Thanks for the clarification, Rowena.
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magenta
Posted 2010-02-03 2:43 PM (#61027 - in reply to #61022)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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Rowena, how easy is it ti gauge the amount of gathering using this method, eg gathering 24" of fabric to fit a 10" yoke on a skirt.

Thanks - Sarah
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rowena___.
Posted 2010-02-03 3:57 PM (#61028 - in reply to #61027)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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magenta - 2010-02-03 12:43 PM Rowena, how easy is it ti gauge the amount of gathering using this method, eg gathering 24" of fabric to fit a 10" yoke on a skirt.  

i don't know, i have never tried.  :D   you'd have to make a sample to be sure, i make them by marking strips of fabric every 10", ruffle it, then measure.  i use 10" instead of 12" because it is an easier number to work with.

FWIW, i hardly ever use ruffles--i'm not a ruffle kind of girl--but when i use extra fullness i like a LOT, so the more the merrier.  and i've made a lot of ruffles in my day so i am pretty good at guessing which fabrics and which situations will give me the most fullness.  for the rest, i don't ruffle.  

oh i should mention that with this method you can pull up the gathering or let it out if you wish, so it isn't that critical to me if it isn't perfect when it comes out of the machine.


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magenta
Posted 2010-02-03 6:35 PM (#61032 - in reply to #61028)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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Thanks Rowena - already did the gathering for this project, but will try your method if I'm ever called on to make a tutu again!

Sarah
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2010-02-03 8:02 PM (#61033 - in reply to #61032)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric


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Omigosh, you were making a tutu? You really need to gather up a lot of fabric in order to make the net stand out, don't you?

You'll have to share some photos!
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cfonfold
Posted 2010-02-04 9:33 AM (#61042 - in reply to #61032)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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I find that tulle' is not espiecially responsive to this approach---it often gets jammed in the feed dogs. For tulle I form tiny "pleats" with my fingers in front of the foot and stitch. Tulle tends to "scrunch" it'self into very, very tiny pleats. After scrunching the first width, I measure and then adjust the tightness or looseness my work. I can scrunch a 45" width down to 6" or 7" with out any real effort at all.  All it takes is practice. And it is all but impossible to tell that it is not gathered.

I use ease plus along the cap seams of set-in sleeves.

Both techniques are good tools for your "workbox"!

Coopie

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mickeygirl
Posted 2010-02-04 11:07 AM (#61043 - in reply to #60977)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric


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Be sure to stay stitch the yoke piece you are sewing the gathered piece to.

If you were going to use a serger I would suggest serging over a piece of crochet thread or using a darning needle to pull crochet yarn through the ladders on the overlock stitch.

Another method is to zigzag over a piece of crochet thread or dental floss and use that to gather.

A long straight stitch works well except when the fabric is heavy because the thread sometimes breaks.
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magenta
Posted 2010-02-04 3:10 PM (#61044 - in reply to #60942)
Subject: RE: gathering a knit fabric



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I'm not making a real tutu, but, as stated somewhere above, a tutu-style skirt. It's for the young woman who cuts my hair now. The shop is next to a toy shop which sells fairy skirts for little girls and she asked if I could make one for her. There are skirts made from different fabrics gathered onto a yoke, and the skirt will be reversible. I'm going for another cut on Wednesday and might change my photo to show my new modern hairstyle. I'd had the style shown in the photo that's my present one since my teens - I'm 46 now. It was the first time I'd managed to find a hairdresser who will work with my naturally very curly hair, instead of trying to fight it. It cost 4x more than I'd ever paid for a haircut before, but was worth every penny.

Sarah
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