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Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP
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   All Things Sewing - Public -> SWAP - Sewing with a PlanMessage format
 
Susan in Miami
Posted 2009-07-07 10:13 AM (#56504 - in reply to #56502)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Pam,

I am only 5' 2" but love to wear capris. If I remember correctly "pedal pushers" were shorter. I agree with Karen that if they aren't short enough they look as if you outgrew them and they make you look shorter but if they hit a pleasing area of the calf, they can be very attractive. Have fun playing - your first pair should start out longer and then keep shortening until you hit the spot that you like.

Susan

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pamelac858
Posted 2009-07-07 1:12 PM (#56508 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Thanks Karen and Susan.

I'm 5'4" but stout, so I am very aware of things that might make me look even more squat. I have a short torso and longer legs, so I might get by with it; I'll play with the visual and see what I come up with. I have a couple of friends who are bigger than I am and they wear them successfully; sometimes I think it's just getting the courage to try it.

Karen, you said you use the empire line for the visual effect. I find that empires look good on almost everyone, is it because they lengthen the torso? I'm trying to learn more about why WHY certain things look better than others - I think it's because I've been watching the Tim Gunn series. LOL He goes into the Why more than others like Trinnie & Susannah do; I'm a Why person.


Part of the SWAP is knowing what goes together and what looks good together, which I think is why we all like to see what everyone is making. Do you have other suggestions (anyone) about proportion and/or giving the illusion of longer and leaner? I like being a girl - rounded - but I want to be a long, lean round. LOL


Pam
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-07-07 1:20 PM (#56509 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I know Tim Gunn and Clinton and Tracy all like the empire because even if you are a bit thick in the waist, the higher line does give a longer leaner look. 

There are several books on proportions.  Personally, I'm a look in the mirror girl.  I really think if you play around you will see when something clicks.

When you do this be sure to have your hair combed and be wearing proper clothes that go with what you are testing.  Don't work on a linen blouse fit wearing PJ bottoms.

I know I've posted this before, but Loretta and I had a skit.  I would come out in an unhemmed dress, socks, fluffy slippers and messed hair.

The class would comment on the fit - always lots of suggested to improve it.

Then I would take off the socks and slippers, change to heals, comb my hair, put on a necklace and Loretta would pin the hem.  Suddenly the fit was improved.

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pamelac858
Posted 2009-07-07 1:29 PM (#56510 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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LOL I love it, Karen! We did something like that in college, as part of our 'professional training'. How we perceive ourselves is often completely wrong. For example, I always thought I had quite dark auburn hair. In a class of about 30, however, mine was second lightest.

What books would y'all recommend? I have bought a few, but none that 'clicked'. I'm afraid that I'm not as good as you are about looking in the mirror and knowing what looks good, but I can tell you what I like on you. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has a mental block that way.

Pam
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Beverly A.
Posted 2009-07-07 1:59 PM (#56511 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Location: Near Houston TX
The Triumph of Individual Style by Mathis and Connor.
Beverly A.
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Olwynmary
Posted 2009-07-07 10:39 PM (#56516 - in reply to #56511)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


About the empire line. It does look great on some people - mostly those who do not have a protruding tummy. (We have seen pix of Karen C. She is tall and slender, with broad shoulders and narrow hips. Wonderful to design for.)

I find that on figures like mine, decidedly rotund and busty, I just look pregnant. Now, I'm not that bad, I have a very heavy bust which, fortunately, sticks further out than my tummy does, but Empire is still a no-no for me. My best style is one which falls almost straight down from the bustline, with just a tiny bit of shaping at waist and hips, and covers what a sewing teacher from whom I once took a class described as "the bulge in the front and the bump behind me."

If you really cannot figure out what flatters you and what doesn't, go shopping with a trusted friend. One whom you can trust to say "That's fine" or "No, take that off, it's dreadful" and take copious notes.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-07-08 6:31 AM (#56522 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I have seen this design on a woman with a tummy and it was flattering.  It does not billow out.

As a note my hips are 2 inches larger than my bust.  I have some tummy.  You would be surprised if I posted a pix in a leo and tights - which I am not going to do.

Style selection is everything.

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Fabricarts
Posted 2009-07-08 8:40 AM (#56524 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Pamela, another book to check out is The Pocket Stylist by Kendall Farr. It is succinct compared to Triumph of Individual Style but does a nice job. She discusses body types (A-B-C-D-E-F) based on proportions of shoulder, waist and hip. (The D-E-F group designates the plus-sized body.) There is a chapter for each body type designating specifics to avoid and what to choose. She talks about fit and has a chapter on how to work with a tailor - which translates well to what we can do ourselves! I like using the "Look Inside" feature at amazon, so take a look, if you get a chance. I see that she has a new book out - Style Evolution - addressing women over 40. 
This is an interesting topic. Thanks to everyone's input - especially Karen.
Miriam
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-07-08 9:01 AM (#56526 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: music city, USA

i'm partial to tim gunn's book "guide to style". 

my own view is that you can wear just about anything, if you wish.  style is at least 50% confidence.  the rest is personal opinion. 

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pamelac858
Posted 2009-07-11 10:30 AM (#56585 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Tim Gunn has just hit the air here in the UK and I thought he was going to be another Trinny & Susannah or Gok Wan, and I was prepared to not like him. However, he does have a more laid-back style and I think he's more educational regarding line, color, balance, etc., than the others - and his terms are a bit less abrasive.

Unfortunately, I'll probably miss most of his series as we are leaving next week for the US for 3 weeks and they'll run the series while I'm gone. I guess I'll either have to get his book or wait for re-runs.

I think topics relating to SWAPs and WHAT to sew are as important as how to sew for most of us. If we had a plan in front of us, we'd just get to it. I know I would.

Thanks for sharing.

Pam
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Mary Anne
Posted 2009-07-11 10:42 AM (#56586 - in reply to #56585)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Hello Pam,
Can you tell me when and where this is on?

Thanks,
Mary Anne
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pamelac858
Posted 2009-07-12 8:14 AM (#56609 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Mary Anne,

The listing is on Sky 3 at noon and 6 pm, different episodes both times. That's why I said I'll probably miss the entire series! Enjoy, though. Where are you in Scotland? One of my favorite places in the UK! We spend a lot of time up there for DH's work and for our time off, when we get to take it.

Pam
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Mary Anne
Posted 2009-07-13 10:19 AM (#56639 - in reply to #56609)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Thanks Pam,
Alas, we only have freeview not sky so will miss it also.
I am now in Kilmarnock Ayrshire, though was born and bred in Glasgow. My favourite part of Scotland is Breamar,
it is just beautiful up there.

Mary Anne
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Pam in N.Yorkshire U
Posted 2009-07-14 9:26 AM (#56652 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Mary Anne

Sky3 is listed in the Radio Times as Freeview 11 if that's any help. Sometimes the Freeview programmes start later in the day but it definitely lists this one.


Another Pam in Harrogate, North Yorkshire.
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phnip
Posted 2009-07-14 4:52 PM (#56655 - in reply to #56652)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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Very glad to hear that! We are off tomorrow for a few days to DM's house in Ayr where she has freeview. The men are going to Turnberry for the Open but if I can find that program I'll be a happy camper.

Vivienne
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-07-24 9:38 AM (#56836 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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I wore some of my swap at the ASG conference - I received the most compliments on the black and white check jacket - it is so simple.  It's the Surplice style as it prints (I think - I may have curved the neck edge - don't remember ) with a tie added to keep it closed.  Had several ask if it was a sewing workshop pattern.

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dressed2atee
Posted 2009-07-24 12:17 PM (#56840 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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wow, that's wonderful!

Did you say you were a long ways from Denver? I'll be in Denver on Tuesday for 4 days.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-07-24 12:28 PM (#56842 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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We are 70 miles south of Denver.  Normally I would plan to meet with you but Susan and Oscar will be here.

I plan to take Oscar on his first fabric shopping trip - will pick out some fabric for PJ sleep pants.  He likes to sleep in flannel pants with pockets, and T shirts.  Never know when you will need a pocket.

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dressed2atee
Posted 2009-07-24 1:29 PM (#56843 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Isn't that funny. Enjoy
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pamelac858
Posted 2009-08-05 1:41 AM (#57167 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP


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I agree with Oscar's dedication to pockets. I need a chapstick holder in everything.

Pam
PS The Sky channel is Freeview. I hope it's still on - I've missed all but about 3 episodes. Bummer.

Edited by pamelac858 2009-08-05 1:42 AM
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2010-01-13 1:18 PM (#60578 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: San Diego, CA
Karen, what ease settings did you use for the red empire blouse? Also, what setting did you use for the waist seam height? I need some inspiration and am thinking of making an empire blouse and then an empire jacket.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-01-14 7:06 AM (#60583 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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I did make one change - I slashed the back and folded out about 3/4th of an inch to the bodice and the lower (total 1.5 inches).  This makes it a bit snugger.  If I was doing a jacket I would not do this.

I am doing another one with a band at the waist.  I offest 1.5 inches along the top edge, added seam allowances.  I didn't make it one piece - it has seam a side seam.  I did put together the princess seams.

Style Name:                               Empire_Princess

Date:                                        1/4/2009

Last Update:                              January 1, 2009

Chart:                                        Karen Campbell

Garment Type:                           Dress

Style:                                        Bodice

Closure:                                     Single Breasted

Front Neckline:                          Straight Vee

Back Neckline:                          Jewel

Front Darts:                               Shoulder Princess

Back Darts:                               Shoulder Princess

Waistline Style:                          Darts

Sideseam Shape:                        Fitted

Bodice Length:                           Empire Waist

Button Size:                               0.5

Number of Buttons:                     5

Front Neckline Depth:                 6

Back Neckline Depth:                 0.25

Neckline Width:                                     0.25

Neckline Point:                          0

Armhole Depth:                          0

Dart Override:                            0

Shoulder Dart Position:               0

Side/Arm Point:                          0

Side/Waist Point:                       0

Side/Hip Point:                          0

Shoulder Pad:                            0

Shoulder Point:                          0

Skirt Length:                              Mini

Finished Cb/Hem Length:            26

Raise Waistline:                         2.5

Blousing:                                   0

Bust Pt Vertical:                         11.5

Bust Pt Horizontal:                      3.75

Upper Front Dart Length:             1

Upper Back Dart Length:             1

Lower Front Dart Length:             3

Lower Back Dart Length:             5

Back Shoulder Dart Length:         3

Skirt Style:                                 Gored

Front Waist Darts:                      1

Back Waist Darts:                      1

Hemline Sweep:                                     Straight

Number of Pleats:                       20

Pleat Depth:                  2

Hip Depth:                                 8

Sleeve Style:                             Full Cap

Sleeve Length:                           Wrist

Sleeve Cap Ease:                       0.24

Sleeve Elbow Depth:                  8

Sleeve Elbow Circum.:                10

Sleeve Cap Height Adj:               0

Seam Allowance:                        0.625

Hem Allowance:                                     2

Facing Width:                            2

Chest Ease:                               2

Waist Ease:                               2

Hip Ease:                                  2.5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-01-14 8:28 AM (#60584 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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As a note, I didn't make the change to the back when I made an empire dress.  Somehow the shorter blouse looked too full, but the dress was just find with the drafted width at the back waist.
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2010-01-14 10:28 AM (#60585 - in reply to #60584)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: San Diego, CA
Karen, I did a quick draft yesterday with 3-2-3 ease levels and the waist seam at 4 just to see how the style looked on me. The top side back waist seam measured 4.974 and the bottom side back waist seam measured 6.085. This is more than an inch different. Would I let out the top side seam or take in the back side seam if I was to use this pattern? The waist seams of the side front pieces were just over 1/8 inch different so not a problem.

Thanks for your settings. I will do a test and see which settings I prefer. I can see where taking in the back will be necessary on my first test. I get too much fullness in the back princess seams over the shoulder blade area - the "back boob" problem that others talk about.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2010-01-14 10:54 AM (#60587 - in reply to #54364)
Subject: RE: Karen's Spring/Summer SWAP



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
They should match - do you have the latest update.  I'm off today so won't be able to check until later.
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