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hemming jersey fabric
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phyllissit
Posted 2009-03-25 1:43 PM (#53385)
Subject: hemming jersey fabric


I made an off grain sleeveless sheath with draped neck. How would you recommend hemming the dress? I tried the machine hem stitch & it does not do well with the fabric. (I do not have a coverstich serger). Thanks.



Attachments
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Attachments summer_knit_dress.las (23KB - 43 downloads)
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Fashions by Joellyn
Posted 2009-03-25 2:19 PM (#53389 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


I am not able to open your attachment, but I do a lot of sewing with knits. I purchased my first Pfaff several years ago because of the dual feed, which makes hemming knits a breeze. The walking foot on my Viking did not do the trick. Sometimes I use a double needle, loosen the thread tension, and lengthen the stitich to 4. This gives the look of a coverstitich, and may work for your jersey. If I'm doing a cotton lycra knit, I may use a zigzag stitich. As a last resort, stiching by hand using a cross stitch will give you some stretch for a knit fabric, and is not obvious. I'm sure that others will give you more suggestions. I often experiment with different types of hem stitches if I'm using an unfamiliar type of knit.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2009-03-25 2:28 PM (#53390 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric



Expert

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Location: Miami, Florida

Although my machine works great on knits, I have learned a new to me way to hem knits that I love - it works great on both fine and heavier knits. Using 1/2" steam-a-seam lite and a 1" hem allowance I iron the s-a-s to the bottom edge of the hem on the wrong side. Take the paper off, turn up the hem 1/2", using the edge of the s-a-s as a guide and iron the hem flat. Then, the final step is to turn up the hem again 1/2" (for a total of 1" and sew a straight or narrow zigzag row of stiching around the top of the hem. The s-a-s controls the fabric like an interfacing would but you still have stretch and a perfect hem that can go through multiple washings and dryings in the machine.

HTH, Susan

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phyllissit
Posted 2009-03-25 2:50 PM (#53392 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


I have been told that an las file can only be opened in pattern editor, I was able to oen the las file once I saved it to a file & opened it in PE.
I have stitch-witchery. Do you think that would be OK?
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2009-03-25 4:40 PM (#53397 - in reply to #53392)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric



Expert

Posts: 1895
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Location: Miami, Florida

No, don't use Stitch Witchery or you will have a hard, non-stretch hem that won't hang correctly. Steam-a-Seam is very light weight and comes with a paper strip cover that you iron over during step one. It is much easier to handle. JoAnn's carries it and some web sites.

Susan

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phyllissit
Posted 2009-03-25 4:44 PM (#53398 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


Wow, thanks Susan. I did a sample strip & thats just what happened.
A trip to Joannes it looks like! Its times like these I wish I had gotten the 5-thread coverstich serger (it cost MUCH more $$$).
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Kathy Seidel
Posted 2009-03-25 6:55 PM (#53401 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric



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I've used wash-away stablizer to hem knits, but I suspect that Susan's method is superior.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2009-03-25 7:52 PM (#53404 - in reply to #53398)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric



Expert

Posts: 1895
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Location: Miami, Florida

I have a 5-thread serger and a coverstitch machine but I still like this hem for certain garments.

Susan

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phyllissit
Posted 2009-03-25 8:39 PM (#53408 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


Susan I just went out & purchased the lite steam a seam (40% off this week at Joanne's). If I understand what you are saying, you still double the hem, just in 1/2" increments? Then you zig or straight stitch? Have you ever just used the bonding stuff by itself or do you always stitch it afterwards? Seems like a great altenative technique. I'll try it tomorrow.
Thanks for the wisdom.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2009-03-25 9:08 PM (#53411 - in reply to #53408)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric



Expert

Posts: 1895
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Location: Miami, Florida

I always sew the seam as well. If you just use the bonding it will eventually give out in the washer & dryer. I never like to have to sew something over again.

Susan

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NancyM
Posted 2010-07-23 10:25 AM (#63644 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


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I use some stuff called fusible knit interfacing from SewKeys (nayy). Comes in black, white, & nude, 1 1/4" wide. Fuse to bottom of hem on wrong side, turn up along edge of interfacing, then (since my serger doesn't coverstitch) use my Pfaff, a twin needle (usually size 2.5) with the bobbin tension set way loose, and a stitch length of 3.5. I guess you could cut your own strips of fusible knit interfacing to any size you wanted, but the precut stuff is perfectly even and mine wouldn't be! I got it at a sewing show, then reordered off the Internet.

Nancy
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Olwynmary
Posted 2010-07-23 11:20 AM (#63650 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


Unless you insist on copying RTW exactly, you may not need to do all that work. Many years ago, in a "Sewing with Knits" class, I learned to use a roller foot and a narrow, short zigzag stitch. Knits do not ravel, so there is no need to turn the hem twice unless you want extra weight. I hem all my knit tops this way, and no-one has ever remarked on it.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2010-07-25 2:18 AM (#63724 - in reply to #53385)
Subject: RE: hemming jersey fabric


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I find I like to use a twin needle, sometimes with woolly nylon in the bobbin.  This works quite well, together with Vliesofix tape which, from the description above, must be a similar product. You iron one side of it to the hem, peel away the tape, turn up the hem and bond.  Gives a little stability when sewing afterwards. 
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