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Making my first pair of Jeans!
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tagsurf
Posted 2008-09-17 8:53 PM (#48149)
Subject: Making my first pair of Jeans!


I'm so about the way PMB4 works and how my designs fit that I'm ready to try my first pair of jeans. I'm thinking that I need to remove my hip ease/change it to zero. My question is does anyone have any recommendations on getting them to fit like a classic pair of blue jeans?

Thanks for the advice,
Teresa
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rowena___.
Posted 2008-09-17 10:09 PM (#48151 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



20001000500100100100
Location: music city, USA
welcome, teresa!

have you made your slopers? how did they fit? without knowing that, we can't really advise you.

once you have made your slopers and have gotten a good fit with them, we can give you specific suggestions.

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tagsurf
Posted 2008-09-18 8:14 AM (#48170 - in reply to #48151)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


Yes, I've made slopers. I've been using PMB for several years, just haven't done much with pants except for some simple slacks. I did have to make new slopers this year due to a weight change, lost 10 pounds, now the slopers fit better than ever. I also plan on making a test pair before cutting my jean fabric, but looking to the experienced for advice on this one before I start.

Thanks for the help,
Teresa
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2008-09-18 8:18 AM (#48171 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

For jeans use less hip ease and less crotch depth.  With fabric with lycra I go to 0 ease both hip and crotch.

The yoked jeans is not for everyone.  If you are curvey I would use jeans and do the yoke in PE and put darts in the front.  In my pants class I show 4 different pairs of RTW jeans each with different styling.  Only common factor is they are all denim.  You don't need a yoke.  You should do a style that best suits you.

Do your test from a heavy fabric.  If you use a muslin they will look like tight pants.  A heavy fabric holds you in.

Remember the traditional jeans design was for a ......man

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tagsurf
Posted 2008-09-18 8:34 AM (#48173 - in reply to #48171)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


Thanks karen. I was wondering about testing in muslin, you read my mind. I have two fabrics a 12oz demin, which is what I plan to do my first pair in, and a 3% lyria demin. So, you also answering my the questions I had about ease settings for lyria demin. If I don't make a total mess of them I'll take a picture.

Thanks again!

P.S. My husband thanks you for the changes made in measurement taking in PMB4. He loves the new videos and how simple it was for him.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2008-09-18 11:21 AM (#48189 - in reply to #48173)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Expert

Posts: 1895
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Location: Miami, Florida

Be very careful with demin with lycra - it can grow and grow and grow. Ask me how I know. Be sure to wash on hot and put in the dryer 3 times each. You might want to do your 1st pair without lycra so that the lycra does not throw off your fitting. Also cut jeans longer than you want and maybe wash again when finished sewing and before heming - they shrink vertically as well as horizontally. Once you know what should fit, you can adjust for the lycra. Enjoy the experience, I love making my own jeans and the compliments keep coming.

Susan

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tagsurf
Posted 2008-10-11 5:24 PM (#48913 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


I finished my jeans today and I'm real happy with the fit. I want to thank the ladies for all of their advise. I used all the advise given to me. I did make a yoke for my jeans because I don't have much curve and it can create one for me. I used the pattern editor to change the fit some and create my own yoke and pockets. I tried posting a picture but my jpg is almost 2mg. To get a closer fit around the hip I used the editor to shorten the back crotch extension and then increased the crotch length by pitching the back pant pattern. It worked out great.

I do have a couple of questions about construction. What buttons do you all prefer for jeans? I used the button from a overall buckle set but would like better options than that. What about rivets? What have you done about rivets? And lastly, topstitching. I know topstitching is in the design catagory but what choices have you made? I wound up using a 6.0 twin needle with Jean Stitch thread. It worked well but overworked my sewing machine. I tried using my Viking 936 but it kept skipping stitches.

Thanks again for all your suggestions!

Teresa



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Teresa_Jeans_092208.las (28KB - 54 downloads)
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Here_Fishey
Posted 2008-10-11 11:02 PM (#48917 - in reply to #48913)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 385
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Location: Gillette, WY
I used the "Jeans" buttons which are found in about the same place in the store as the overall set.  For top-stitching, increase the stitch length to about 4, and make sure that you are using a new denim needle.  I use a mock flat felled seam and top-stitch and edge stitch.  I also have not tried using the rivets, i just bar-tack for now.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2008-10-12 1:28 AM (#48918 - in reply to #48913)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Expert

Posts: 1895
1000500100100100252525
Location: Miami, Florida

When using heavy thread like Jeans Stitch, use regular thread in the bobbin. If you use bobbin thread to match the color of your jeans then it won't show in the top stitching but will be easier on your machine and will avoid skipped stitches. JoAnn's sells special jeans buttons and you can buy Tack Buttons from the Snap Source on line. These buttons look just like the buttons on the jeans that you buy. I love the look of rivets and when I finally got over the fear of putting them in, they really are easy to apply - the problem is finding a source for rivets.

HTH, Susan

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tagsurf
Posted 2008-10-12 4:02 PM (#48933 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


Thanks for all the feedback. My machine is a little older and can only go through six layers of jean fabric successfully. Going over felled seams at connection points gives her a workout. If you find a source for rivets please post it and I'll do the same. Meanwhile I think it's time for my serger to go in for service.

Thanks again,

Teresa
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cfonfold
Posted 2008-10-12 4:51 PM (#48935 - in reply to #48933)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK

Hi Teresa , take a hammer to your jeans seams. I really mean a HAMMER. Flattens them a bit and it will really help.

Coopie

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Susan in Miami
Posted 2008-10-12 5:48 PM (#48936 - in reply to #48933)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Expert

Posts: 1895
1000500100100100252525
Location: Miami, Florida
Coopie is si right, I pound my denim seams until they scream - it's like magic. Also, I use a mock felled seam so there are not so many layers and no one would know. Sew your seams, right sides together and then serge the edges together, don't cut off more than a hair of fabric. Pound your seams and use steam to flatten, then edge stitch and top stitch on the right side of the seam - looks very professional.
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tagsurf
Posted 2008-10-12 7:39 PM (#48941 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


I love to take a hammer to things, it sounds like fun. I'm going to make another pair in a month or so (after wearing my first for a while so I can determine my changes for improvement) and I promise to beat them senseless!

You guys are great - thanks for everything,
Teresa
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Beth in Wichita
Posted 2008-10-12 8:47 PM (#48942 - in reply to #48936)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 902
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Location: Wichita, Kansas
I used to think it was cheating to use a mock flat felled seam.  I did it, but, like you, I figured no one would notice.  Then I looked at the inside of a pair of RTW jeans & realized they "cheat" too.  I've never bothered with rivets & usually skip belt loops since I wouldn't wear a belt anyway.  Trust me, no one ever notices.  I once told someone I have no idea what my RTW size is because I make all my clothes.  She looked at me like I was nuts & said I had to know what size I wear because I was wearing jeans.  They, of course, were a size "Beth", which I've never seen in a store.

I use the widest twin needle I can find & a topstitching stitch that basically sews each stitch twice.

Beth in Wichita
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patpetinga
Posted 2008-10-16 8:41 AM (#49066 - in reply to #48935)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


2525
Location: Ventnor, NJ
about the hammering-just to "guild this lily" a little

Try using the hammer with the jeans draped over a brick, cinder block or cement. This does and even faster job of taming the seam intersections and gives the added benefit of distressing the fabric.
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rowena___.
Posted 2008-10-16 10:47 AM (#49073 - in reply to #48942)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!



20001000500100100100
Location: music city, USA

Beth in Wichita - 2008-10-12 6:47 PM I used to think it was cheating to use a mock flat felled seam.  I did it, but, like you, I figured no one would notice.  Then I looked at the inside of a pair of RTW jeans & realized they "cheat" too.  I've never bothered with rivets & usually skip belt loops since I wouldn't wear a belt anyway.  Trust me, no one ever notices. 

amen,  but what they ALWAYS notice is how well things fit! 

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sewcello
Posted 2010-08-27 3:28 PM (#65272 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


I've made several pairs of jeans. I use a jean a ma jig to jump the intersecting seams when topstitching. I edge stitch and then stitch again 1/4 inch away. I use jeans weight orange colored thread and multipurpose thread in the bobbin. I have found that using a twin needle leaves jumped or skipped stitches.

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kerry
Posted 2011-02-21 10:03 PM (#72683 - in reply to #48918)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


New User

Posts: 1

rivets are easily purchased at tandy leather craft stores or puchased as a mail order
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-02-22 2:35 AM (#72689 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
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Location: Alabama
Years ago my dh did soem leather work. He purchased at Tandy Leathercraft, a small piece of granite to work on top of. It would be an assett for pounding seams.
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Mollie M
Posted 2011-07-28 3:59 PM (#76974 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


New User

Posts: 3

I made a pair! They are my favorite jeans of all time. The only fitting problem I had, was the hips were too big. I put them on wrong side out (before putting on the waistband) , pinned them, made a chalk mark where the pins were, and then sewed on the mark. Perfect! I think I'll try the close fit for the hips next time. Hope that'll work.
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Mollie M
Posted 2011-07-28 4:05 PM (#76978 - in reply to #48149)
Subject: RE: Making my first pair of Jeans!


New User

Posts: 3

I forgot to mention, I re-inforced my seams with a bar tack stitch. Worked well. And, after reading more of these, I think I'll try the very close for the hips instead of close. Looking forward to making my next jeans.
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