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Trousers/ Pants baggy at front but tight across the thigh
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Berninawoman
Posted 2018-08-18 1:07 PM (#92694)
Subject: Trousers/ Pants baggy at front but tight across the thigh


Member

Posts: 5

Location: UK		Hello,
I am trying to develop a standard trouser / Pant Pattern.
I have developed a bit of a tummy in my old age and the PMB v6 pattern I have made has a baggy crotch in front and strains across the thighs when I move. It almost feels like I have them on backwards (I don't...)

What am I doing wrong ?

My waist Measurement is 31.5"
High Hip (5" below my waist) is 39.5" (All out front)
Hip (7" below waist) is 40.5" (All out back - but not excessively so)
Crotch 28" Waist to waist


I did find my test pair had about 1/2 an inch too much at the waist height. When moved them up and redrew the waist line they fit & feel much better.
I also feel the front part of the leg at the inside is a bit too short and the inside seam the back seems to come to the front.
Otherwise they look good. The side seams fall straight and they are comfortable and fit well at the waist.

I am using PMv6. I am fairly new to PM, but I am a fairly experienced Flat pattern maker. So if I can get close I can make adjustments manually.

I have printed out and tried both the angled back piece and the straight up and down piece (Sorry don't know what they are called.) I think the Straight up was a bit better.
Should I lengthen the back crotch, or shorten the front ??

I would be grateful for any help,
I really need to make some crop trousers and some shorts but need to get this balance right first.

Many Thanks in Advance!

Edited by Berninawoman 2018-08-18 1:11 PM
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StMike
Posted 2018-08-20 8:46 AM (#92695 - in reply to #92694)
Subject: Re: Trousers/ Pants baggy at front but tight across the thigh



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 550
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Location: Evansville, Indiana		Just a wild guess, but it sounds as though the hipline is sagging in front. Was it level on the fitting garment? Pictures would help diagnose the problem. It was unclear whether you shortened the front crotch on the fitting garment or your trial run with the fashion fabric? There are some fitting issues pictured in the Help part of the program. Study those to see if you can find clues to your fit issues.
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cfonfold
Posted 2018-08-21 3:11 PM (#92697 - in reply to #92694)
Subject: RE: Trousers/ Pants baggy at front but tight across the thigh



Expert

Posts: 1985
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Location: Norman,OK

mmm- first things first!  You've done your fitting pant? And Karen has critiqued it? A good step if you are new the software.Doesn't mean that those photos will wind up before the public! I really encourage you to do this.

It's really hard for us to advise you with out visuals. We are only quessing based on our own experiences. St. Mile is a good advisor.Great intuition! 

I also have a round tummy. My fitting pants are a classic look for a tailored trouser. There is fullness across the front. Thats how the pattern draftsbecause of my generous hip. And rounded belly. Pants I make to wear under tunics and shirts I like to follow my body a bit more and round under my tummy  because I don't like all that extra fabric under a shirt!   So I tighten the hip a bit (ease) and using the crotch shapeing tool I scoop out the front area and reshape the CF seam a bit. If the pant;)  pulls across the upper thigh I drop the CF waist a bit.( How much? Don't really know.) If the pants a too tight across the upper thigh try increasing the knee width.  A bit. Always work on top of the red sloper. you will be able to see whats happening.

And really really? send Karen some pics.;)

Coopie

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2018-08-22 12:52 AM (#92698 - in reply to #92694)
Subject: Re: Trousers/ Pants baggy at front but tight across the thigh



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO		Karen has been hiking in Alaska the last week. Yes I do need pictures. Full front, back and side. Need to see the balance lines from the pattern
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