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Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist
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JillRN1995
Posted 2017-08-12 1:48 PM (#92201)
Subject: Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
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Location: Louisiana

 

I've been away from the forums for quite some time.  I'm checking in to see if there is now a way to draft a dress with an empire or midriff waistline that fits to the shape of the body.  The bodice front needs to lengthen to accommodate the under-bust, and the skirt or midriff need to be fitted to the body.  Furthermore, I want to be able to rotate the darts to form pleats.  I would LOVE to see a tutorial on how to do that!  This is my favorite dress style.  I am attaching a couple of pictures to illustrate. 

Jill





(S2217.JPG)



(S2145.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments S2217.JPG (11KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments S2145.JPG (8KB - 0 downloads)
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2017-08-13 10:58 AM (#92207 - in reply to #92201)
Subject: Re: Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Pretty Easy - Select Midriff and Surplice. Use the side dart for the back and for the front select Blouson. Blouson allows extra for pleating.

If you want to use the princess lines you need to just extend our the front to allow for pleats.

You will need to cut off the extension for the midriff and skirt.
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JillRN1995
Posted 2017-08-13 3:12 PM (#92208 - in reply to #92201)
Subject: Re: Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Thank you Karen. I can see the potential.

When I select "Blouson", then the back changes too. Would it work OK if I draft 2 patterns, one for the front, and another for the back? You recommended a "Side Dart" for the back, but that isn't an option.

I think that I will need more blousing to provide sufficient length to go under my DD bust? The program will not allow me to add "Blousing" in the settings menu. Is this something that can be "Turned On" on your end?

Please clarify this statement: "You will need to cut off the extension for the midriff and skirt." What "extension"? Are you referring to the added width at the side seams?

Jill

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2017-08-13 5:39 PM (#92209 - in reply to #92201)
Subject: Re: Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist



Tech Support

500050001000252525
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Use the back from the side dart pattern and the front from Blouson.

When you select Surplice it extends the front midriff piece and the skirt piece.

In your design they did not extend as far as the surplice folds.

Blousing is only available with waist length garments.
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JillRN1995
Posted 2017-08-13 6:08 PM (#92210 - in reply to #92201)
Subject: Re: Please help with design of surplice neckline with empire waist



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
OK. Thanks.
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