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Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out
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margie2
Posted 2016-07-26 2:18 PM (#91329)
Subject: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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I have discovered that my jackets all hang away from my body at the center back hem. I never really noticed it before. My DH pointed it out to me when I asked him something about the last jacket I was working on. I then took a good look at previous jackets and could see the same problem.

I have tried to figure out why, but have not been able to. I tried darts that go all the way to the hem and princess seams. Neither was an improvement.

It seems to me that the problem has to be corrected from the shoulders. I do have forward shoulders and neck and have made adjustments for them. My shoulder seam is exactly where it should be on my arm and neck. At least, I think it is.

Before I draft another correction, I thought I would ask if anyone knows how to tackle this problem. Do I need to shape the back seam rather than cut on the fold? Is the armhole the problem and pulling? I have so many "what ifs" that I don't know where to start. I cannot find any information in my many books because I don't know what to call the problem to look it up.

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-26 11:40 PM (#91331 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Might think about length and amount of hip ease.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-27 3:30 PM (#91332 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Been thinking about this. Put on a jacket and take three pictures like we do for fit garments. Front, back and side view. Then the pictures can give a clue to why it is sticking out. You can post the pictures or send them to me.
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margie2
Posted 2016-07-27 5:35 PM (#91333 - in reply to #91332)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Thanks, Karen. I have to rethink this. I had DH take the pictures in the only plain colored jacket I could find. It does not stick out in the back, but rises in the front. I have gained weight since I made it and it does not fit me very well.

The jacket that I was working on was just a muslin and is a bright colored, full patterned fabric that I bought in a thrift store. It will probably never be seen outside my sewing room. It is just too bold to be able to see the imperfections in a picture. I will make another muslin and use something less flashy. Then I might need some help.
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Denidoo
Posted 2016-07-27 9:26 PM (#91334 - in reply to #91333)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Hi Margie - it has been my experience when a jacket rises at the front I need a full bust adjustment and when the hemline hangs away from the back I need a rounded upper back adjustment. There are lots of examples of these adjustments on the net.
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margie2
Posted 2016-07-27 11:56 PM (#91335 - in reply to #91334)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Denidoo, thank you for the information. I do know how to make those adjustments to commercial patterns. I have gotten to the point where I don't like to use commercial patterns. I would like to be able to draft a pattern with those requirements in the draft. Might have to do it in PE. I have been looking through my books, since I posted the first time, and have decided that I might need to adjust for a rounded back. I thought the software adjusted for a FBA when you put in the cup size under measurements. Karen, Lisa, is this the case?

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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-28 7:49 AM (#91336 - in reply to #91335)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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margie2 - 2016-07-27 10:56 PM

Denidoo, thank you for the information. I do know how to make those adjustments to commercial patterns. I have gotten to the point where I don't like to use commercial patterns. I would like to be able to draft a pattern with those requirements in the draft. Might have to do it in PE. I have been looking through my books, since I posted the first time, and have decided that I might need to adjust for a rounded back. I thought the software adjusted for a FBA when you put in the cup size under measurements. Karen, Lisa, is this the case?



The software does an initial draft for a full bust using the cup size in the measurement chart. You may also need to use either (or both) the dart override or the bust cup adjustment settings on the Darts tab. Your fitting garment would indicate whether these settings might be useful.

For a rounded upper back, review the article on the Home screen Articles tab on Neck and Upper Back. We give suggestions on changes you can make to settings for a rounded back. If the main problem is that your jacket is sticking out in the back, you might try making a hip length (or shorter) fit garment with the new settings.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-28 9:06 AM (#91337 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Before you start over, please take pictures of the print muslin. We just may see something in spite of it being print to aim you in the right direction instead of starting from scratch. Send the picture to support@wildginger.com
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margie2
Posted 2016-07-28 10:17 AM (#91338 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Thank you, Lisa and Karen. Karen, I will get a picture taken later today. Lisa, I will learn about the adjustments you suggest. I have not needed those until now. The weight gain has changed everything.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-28 10:56 AM (#91339 - in reply to #91338)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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margie2 - 2016-07-28 9:17 AM

Thank you, Lisa and Karen. Karen, I will get a picture taken later today. Lisa, I will learn about the adjustments you suggest. I have not needed those until now. The weight gain has changed everything.


I know the feeling. I put on 60 plus pounds a few of years ago and of course, my whole body shape changed. I lost all of the weight last year and have kept it off but my shape is still very different. I am having to rethink the styles I wear now. I started sewing again for myself a few weeks ago. It's been challenging because even though the patterns "fit" me, I know longer like the way I look in the styles I used to wear. I made several test garments in a few different silhouettes and decided that I am going to stick to those styles and just change the necklines and sleeves or do color blocking, etc. Now I am getting styles I like on myself.
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margie2
Posted 2016-07-28 2:10 PM (#91340 - in reply to #91339)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Not only is weight gain an issue, but age also. While shopping with one of my daughters, she said something very profound to me. "Don't dress like an old lady if you don't want people to see you as an old lady." I am 75. I also don't want to dress like a teenager. It is very hard to figure out how I want the world to perceive me and still be comfortable with myself. I am still working on that.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2016-07-28 2:15 PM (#91341 - in reply to #91340)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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margie2 - 2016-07-28 1:10 PM

Not only is weight gain an issue, but age also. While shopping with one of my daughters, she said something very profound to me. "Don't dress like an old lady if you don't want people to see you as an old lady." I am 75. I also don't want to dress like a teenager. It is very hard to figure out how I want the world to perceive me and still be comfortable with myself. I am still working on that.


Yep, that is my problem too.
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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2016-08-08 7:26 AM (#91377 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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I share your pain. Being in the corporate world, I need clothing that says businesswoman but being short and overweight means suits don't look so good. And while most of us are proud of being mums, looking mumsy is somehow not so good. Probably because it means we look as if we've just got up off the floor after a frantic search for the toddlers dummy. So I'm sticking to PJs for the moment - nice loose fitting linen nightgowns and flowy satin thingys that feel sexy in the dark even if they look like a tent in daylight)
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dotmoll
Posted 2016-08-09 10:17 AM (#91379 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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Back - how about cutting a peplum just for the center back panel, so that you can include a fisheye dart in the peplum seam to control the fulness needed for a rounded upper back, and/or add a tiny bit of flare over the bottom, depending on where the jacket is catching.

Would fabric cut or choice make a difference? I'm finding that jackets with some give, or with a mix of fabrics (i.e. softer side panels have more give, main body panels remain more structured) look and feel less boxy. Have no time to sew at the moment but have considered cutting side panels on the bias for the same reason...anybody tried it?
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Grandma C
Posted 2016-08-09 1:26 PM (#91382 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out


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I frequently see scrub tops made with the stretchier side panels. The darker panels or solid fabric on the sides of the tops. I have gained so much weight, I am appalled. If I can get back to sewing, I aim to make some scrub tops this way to start out. I have turned into barrel. Terrible to fit and make to feel pretty.
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Patti
Posted 2016-08-09 4:03 PM (#91384 - in reply to #91329)
Subject: Re: Jacket Back Hem Sticks Out



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Not OT I hope. I like to look at retail sites that have plus size fashions in gorgeous and expensive clothes. The ones I go to are
http://www.lafayette148ny.com
Http://www.neimanmarcus.com
http://shop.nordstrom.com/c/womens-plus-size-shop?origin=topnav&cm_...
http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/Women-s-Apparel/Plus-and-Extended-Si...

Some sites use plus size models and it is easier to see how different styles look. I, too, a have a hard time getting it right. Good luck.

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