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Button spacing principles conflict?
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NancyM
Posted 2016-04-30 12:53 AM (#91156)
Subject: Button spacing principles conflict?


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I have nearly finished a casual, unlined jacket with a 4" sport collar. I'm attaching a picture of an earlier version. For the new version (in lighter weight fabric) my daughter asked for a 2" increase in length, and buttons instead of a zipper, and I'm having trouble deciding how to place the buttons. They're 7/8" and perfect color for the fabric. I figured one on the collar and the other five on the torso. But the pattern didn't mark one on the collar. Will it look weird or feel wrong to have a button on the sport collar?

Also, the pattern positions the top button 7/8" down from the neckline seam, and then spaces the rest about 4.25" apart. This creates two puzzles for me. (1) If I center a button on the collar, it's only 2 7/8" away from the top torso button, a very obvious spacing difference from the rest. But if I move the top torso button down, will it be too far away from the neckline seam for proper function? (2) Also, the pattern spacing places the bust point in the middle of the space between two buttons. I've read that there should be a button at bust point level to prevent gapping.

So which principles are most important, or which do I sacrifice? Centering the button vertically on the collar for appearance? Spacing the buttons evenly, for same reason? Having buttons at functional strain points (top of torso, and fullest part of bust)?

I considered buying an additional button and spacing them all more closely, but the buttons are so big that six of them on the torso seems like too many.

Advice, please? I never know what to do when the "rules" conflict.

Nancy





(melton jacket front 27KB.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments melton jacket front 27KB.jpg (30KB - 0 downloads)
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sewsally
Posted 2016-04-30 11:48 AM (#91160 - in reply to #91156)
Subject: Re: Button spacing principles conflict?



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Location: North of Seattle, WA
You are the designer. Place them where you want just not too close to the edge.
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NancyM
Posted 2016-04-30 4:05 PM (#91161 - in reply to #91160)
Subject: Re: Button spacing principles conflict?


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sewsally - 2016-04-30 10:48 AM

You are the designer.


That's the problem, all right.

Nancy
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Katy in AZ
Posted 2016-04-30 4:34 PM (#91162 - in reply to #91156)
Subject: RE: Button spacing principles conflict?


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Posts: 24

Hi Nancy,

I'm looking at your picture and I'm not sure what you mean by a button "on the collar".

But that aside, it appears that if you had a button at the bust level, there would be room for two above and two below. The upper one would be where the zipper pull is in the photo.

Now, if you meant that there is a collar band that I am not seeing, then put a button on the band, one at the bust point and one anywhere else that makes sense. I have seem patterns on which, if there is a band, it does not reflect the spacing on the rest of the garment.

I often use more buttons than one would find on RTW, but remember that buttons cost money and if RTW can save a few pennies, they do.

Bottom line, if you and I were in a room of twenty-five people, only you and I would notice anyone's button spacing!

Katy in AZ
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NancyM
Posted 2016-04-30 7:25 PM (#91163 - in reply to #91162)
Subject: RE: Button spacing principles conflict?


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Thanks to both of you.

Katy, the sport collar is just a plain rectangle, in this case 4" high by the length of the neckline. In the picture the zipper teeth continue onto it, though not all the way to the top. In the photo the zipper isn't pulled all the way up. (If it were, the collar would stand up around the neck.) When you draft a single-breasted garment the collar overlaps pretty much the way a collar band does, so I guess I can treat the collar button as if it were a collar band button.

I will ask my daughter whether she ever wears that jacket with the zipper pulled all the way up, and reason from there.

Thanks,
Nancy
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rebells
Posted 2016-05-02 8:51 AM (#91166 - in reply to #91156)
Subject: Re: Button spacing principles conflict?


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
I believe I own a sweater that is similar to what you are looking for, with a stand up / fold down collar. My sweater is tunic length and has 8 buttons. I haven't measured them but I would guess about 1 inch diameter. There is one button in the center of the collar and seven down the front. It looks like the first bodice button is a little more than one button diameter down from the neckline seam.

Hope this helps.
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NancyM
Posted 2016-05-03 10:55 AM (#91174 - in reply to #91166)
Subject: Re: Button spacing principles conflict?


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"A little more than one button diameter down" is a useful guideline; thanks!
Nancy
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