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Lower the waist
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JudySewsToo
Posted 2015-10-06 8:12 PM (#90429)
Subject: Lower the waist


Member

Posts: 7

My natural waist is high and that works for dresses, but not for a blouse with a peplum. I want to lower the waist 1" to start. Do I increase the front and back length by 1" and increase the front and back shoulder slopes by 1/2"?
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-10-06 11:03 PM (#90430 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Increase the lengths and slopes the same amount.
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JudySewsToo
Posted 2015-10-07 3:28 PM (#90435 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Member

Posts: 7

Thanks Karen. I'll try that.
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freetime
Posted 2015-11-07 3:01 PM (#90589 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Veteran

Posts: 123
100
Location: Georgia
Just made a criss-cross dress with the waist seam and attached gored skirt. After stitching and checking fit, noticed waist rides up about 1 inch higher than it should. Just measured pattern and center back is about an inch shorter than it should be. Karen, would increasing the lengths and slopes the same amount work for lowering the waist seam back where it should be?
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-07 6:44 PM (#90591 - in reply to #90589)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Yes, add to cf, CB, fss and BSS.
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freetime
Posted 2015-11-07 9:35 PM (#90596 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Veteran

Posts: 123
100
Location: Georgia
Will a new measurement chart have to be made for a dress/blouse with a waist or are the adjustments something we can do while drafting?
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freetime
Posted 2015-11-07 9:58 PM (#90597 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Veteran

Posts: 123
100
Location: Georgia
Also, when doing measurements for the waist, the directions say that the waist is approximately 1 inch above the navel. Is this from the center of the navel or the top?
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-08 12:12 AM (#90601 - in reply to #90597)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
You may want a chart just for dresses with a waist. The naval is a general location. Some high, some low, some big, some small. Best way I use to locate the waist is from the back. Top of the hip curve.
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maryann
Posted 2015-11-14 1:24 PM (#90626 - in reply to #90601)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Regular

Posts: 68
2525

Why would the waist level of a waisted garment draft higher than that of a sheath-type garment in the program?

 

Maryann 

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southerngal
Posted 2015-11-15 5:32 AM (#90632 - in reply to #90626)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Member

Posts: 11

In lowering the waist measurement, the cf, cb, ssf, ssb , does this also effect the bust point of a garment?
The reason I am asking this is because I did this and laid over another pattern and it effected the bust point in being lower. I thought that it would stay the same but it did not.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-15 7:50 AM (#90633 - in reply to #90632)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Administrator

Posts: 2951
20005001001001001002525
Location: Auburn, AL
southerngal - 2015-11-15 4:32 AM

In lowering the waist measurement, the cf, cb, ssf, ssb , does this also effect the bust point of a garment?
The reason I am asking this is because I did this and laid over another pattern and it effected the bust point in being lower. I thought that it would stay the same but it did not.


The initial position of the bust point is calculated based on the center front length. If you change that measurement, you will need to change the dart point/vertical setting as well to keep the bust point in the original location.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-15 8:01 AM (#90634 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
The waist position on the sheath style and the dress with a sewn waist is exactly the same.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-15 8:23 AM (#90636 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
An easy way to add desired length for style is to use blousing in settings. This just adds to the length and doesn't change any other settings.



(Blousing.png)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Blousing.png (16KB - 2 downloads)
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southerngal
Posted 2015-11-15 4:42 PM (#90637 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Member

Posts: 11

Thank you Lisa. I did change center front and back length. So I also changed the others but forgot about bust point. So I will have to change it also.
The bust point must be measured from the neck edge on the shoulder down is my guess. Is this correct.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-16 8:44 AM (#90638 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
If you made your lower waist chart separate from your original chart, open you original chart and check the bust point settings there. Enter those in the new chart.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2015-11-16 10:16 AM (#90639 - in reply to #90637)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Administrator

Posts: 2951
20005001001001001002525
Location: Auburn, AL
southerngal - 2015-11-15 3:42 PM

Thank you Lisa. I did change center front and back length. So I also changed the others but forgot about bust point. So I will have to change it also.
The bust point must be measured from the neck edge on the shoulder down is my guess. Is this correct.


Yes, that is correct. Look at the Help for the Dart Point Vertical setting and you will see a picture of how to measure.
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StMike
Posted 2015-11-16 11:30 AM (#90640 - in reply to #90429)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 537
50025
Location: Evansville, Indiana
I am just curious as to why you don't use the blousing feature as suggested by Karen? It looks like a much easier way to accomplish what you want? Just curious. I sew for my daughters from time to time and have run into some problems with the length above the waist.
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Maria in Toronto, ON
Posted 2015-11-17 12:41 PM (#90646 - in reply to #90640)
Subject: Re: Lower the waist


Veteran

Posts: 132
10025
Location: Toronto, Ontario
I have used the blousing to lower the waist quite successfully. Not much else to adjust. Just have to make sure the new waist circumference is correct when using the blousing.


Maria
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