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Pants Ease and The Great Spread
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StMike
Posted 2015-08-08 11:30 AM (#90155)
Subject: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 537
50025
Location: Evansville, Indiana
I have been sewing for over eight years, most of that time with WG software.  uring that time I have put on 25lbs or more and mostly around my middle.  In the beginning, I would design the pants, with an ease setting of 2.5 or 3" around the hips.  The pants fit reasonably well, and I could sit comfortably.  Now, with extra girth, if I design the pants to look  nicely fit while standing with the 2-3" of ease around the hips I cannot sit comfortably and look like I am stuffed into a sausage casing when seated.  I finally realized that all the lower belly fat has no where to go but down and out when I sit.  My girth measurement around the hips goes from 42.5" standing to over 47"  sitting!  So, I will just have to have baggy pants while standing if I am going to sit comfortably and not split any seams. Thought I would share this because it was kind of a revelation to me. I just could not figure out where that extra girth was coming from when sitting.
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Patti
Posted 2015-08-08 7:04 PM (#90156 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Have you tried adding some ease everywhere, such as crotch, inseams, crotch length, and side seams. If it's just the tummy area, try doing the CF seam a little curved. I'm having the same problem and lengthening the crotch points dramatically helped. Good luck. Not easy fitting pants.
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StMike
Posted 2015-08-08 7:27 PM (#90158 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 537
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Thanks for the tips. I have tried the Trouser Cut and that helped as it lengthens the rear crotch seam under the seat. I also find that moving the side seams out an inch or so in PE provides more circumference in the upper thigh/crotch. That also lengthens the inseams, so you have to be careful to adjust the inseams in PE so that they are close to equal lengths or slightly shorter back inseam. I have not tried realigning or curving the front crotch seam, but that sounds interesting. So far, the combination of trouser cut, more hip ease and moving the side seams out appears to be a good way for me to go. Thanks again.
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Grandma C
Posted 2015-08-08 8:03 PM (#90161 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread


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Location: Alabama
Have you thought about putting a little diamond gusset in the crotch seam. My Dad didn't have a lot of rear but had the expanding middle and I remembered a tailor suggesting the gusset.
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StMike
Posted 2015-08-08 8:55 PM (#90164 - in reply to #90161)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 537
50025
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Never thought of that.  My skills are not likely up to that kind of installation.  I will check out YouTube for demo videos.  Very interesting suggestion.  Thanks.
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Towanda
Posted 2015-08-08 9:16 PM (#90165 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread


Regular

Posts: 75
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Mike,

Check out this blog post https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-belly-adjustmen... I have to make the same adjustments for all pants and skirts.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2015-08-08 10:16 PM (#90166 - in reply to #90165)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



Administrator

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Location: Auburn, AL
Karen and I have been working on several new style options for the last few months. We hope to have them ready for the October 1 update. These options are primarily for adapting patterns for special needs such as limited mobility, physical injury, loss of limbs, and confinement to wheelchairs. One of the options that will be included is a crotch gusset for pants. We have also added several new closures and options for the seated figure. We are hoping to have an interim update shortly for those who can help us work out the kinks
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NancyM
Posted 2015-08-09 12:02 AM (#90169 - in reply to #90166)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread


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Oh, Lisa, this sounds like just what I need for my MIL. I'm hoping that there will be really easy closures--she has almost no strength or flexibility in her fingers and can't handle buttons anymore, and I hesitate to use Velcro with knits because they snag on it in the laundry (no special-care items allowed for assisted living).

Many thanks,
NancyM

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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2015-08-09 8:51 AM (#90170 - in reply to #90169)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread



Administrator

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Location: Auburn, AL
NancyM - 2015-08-08 11:02 PM

Oh, Lisa, this sounds like just what I need for my MIL. I'm hoping that there will be really easy closures--she has almost no strength or flexibility in her fingers and can't handle buttons anymore, and I hesitate to use Velcro with knits because they snag on it in the laundry (no special-care items allowed for assisted living).

Many thanks,
NancyM



We have created several new closures such as a back gusset and and back overlapping placket. These are more for allowing someone else to assist with dressing though. They would also still require buttons, snaps, or velcro. I do know velcro can snag. One way around that is to make sure its closed when you wash it and wash the items in a mesh laundry bag if that is allowed.

If she is mostly dressing herself and can still manage, snaps are a good alternative. Look for snap tape that is used for infants clothing. Its soft, pliable, and easier to snap and does not require any special tools for attaching. You just sew the tape on both sides. You can order it online if you do not find it locally.

You might also look at magnets. They are becoming more common as an alternative to buttons, velcro, or snaps. You can also order them online. The ones you see below are marketed for purses but they might also work for garments.

If anyone has other ideas for closures that work in these situations, please let us know. We will certainly try to include them in the update.





(magneticsnaps.png)



Attachments
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Attachments magneticsnaps.png (191KB - 0 downloads)
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dotmoll
Posted 2015-08-21 11:56 PM (#90212 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Pants Ease and The Great Spread


Elite Veteran

Posts: 648
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I second the crotch gusset idea, for 2 reasons. 1, extending the crotch tends to make for wasteful cutting layout, and 2, a crotch gusset means that you have a single (or double) layer of fabric at the center, instead of a point where 4 seams meet.

A crotch gusset is also easy to recut if you decide to change the size or shape of the gusset.
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