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Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments
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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-07-25 7:00 AM (#90109)
Subject: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Hi all
I am making my first proper skirt an 8 gore skirt with a facing, having completed my fit garments and adjusted accordingly.

Really want to get to grips with this as I don't really like waistbands and can see me wanting to use facings and yokes more with both skirt and pants.

I had some success with my muslin yesterday but would still like to tweek the waist.

My settings are
Waist 31.281
Length 20
Waist ease 0.75
hip ease 2
hip depth 8.25
Front dart length 4
back Dart length 6
Front Dart position 4.5
back Dart position 4.5

I was up until 1am last night reading through all the posts especially the ones on waist drops, but wonder if someone could confirm what I think I need to do now. Don't want to bother Karen again as I am sure many of you will be able to answer my query.

I want to drop the centre front waist by 1 inch. I am happy to leave the sides and back as they are. In the forums and in previous emails to me Karen has said that when she drops the waist or uses a facing as opposed to a waist band, she uses zero ease.

I am thinking waist 32.5 (remeasured my waist circumference with tape measure lowered by 1 inch at front)
Zero ease at waist
Hip ease 2 (no change)
Front dart length 3.5 (shortened by half inch) I drew a curve on the muslin I made yesterday, from the side to the centre front dropped at 1 inch and the front dart remaining was 3.5)
If I am leaving the back and sides as they are and only dropping the centre front, does the hip depth remain the same (8.25)? If it does, but I was also reducing the side drops would I reduce the hip depth?

In the absence of getting any replies I will try the above first, and also try another using the existing waist measurement with 0.75 ease, but using cf waist drop of 1 and shortening front darts, and if necessary another with the existing waist measurement with zero ease and the cf waist drop and shortened front dart, although I cant see that this will fit - I know we all learn more by trying things out but I am on a tight schedule wanting to make skirts for my hols next month and just want to save as much time remaking muslins and being able to make wearable garment.
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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-07-25 7:54 AM (#90110 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Actually another thought on this. I shortened my front dart by half inch to 3.5 instead of 4 because that's what I measured my drawn on curve on my muslin at, but should I have shortened it by 1 inch the same as what I dropped the front waist by?
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Marilyn in Oviedo Fl
Posted 2015-07-25 8:21 AM (#90111 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Veteran

Posts: 134
10025
Make a muslin with the setting all the same, except no waistband, use facings instead. Your waistband on your slopers is 1 inch. This will drop the top of the muslin 1 inch. Then draw on the muslin where you want the top of the skirt to be and use those measurement to adjust in the program. Add this amount to any waist drops you are already using. Don't change the hip depth, as it is set to your body already. Yes, I also use 0 ease on my dropped waists.
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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-07-25 10:18 AM (#90112 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Thank you Marilyn. I thought that the natural waist sits at the waist seam of the sloper and then the waistband when sewed on rises it above the natural waist by 1 inch. The muslin I made yesterday was for the Gores skirt with facing instead of a waistband and I used my natural waist measurement of 31.281 and 0.75 waist ease. It is from this muslin that I have decided I want to drop the centre front down by an inch from the waist facing seam, so just to confirm I am thinking zero ease and waist 32.5 (my waist measurement taken below natural waist) , front darts shortened by half or 1 inch and leave the hip depth to 8.25.
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Maria in Toronto, ON
Posted 2015-07-30 2:31 PM (#90124 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Veteran

Posts: 132
10025
Location: Toronto, Ontario
For pants and skirts I mark where I want it to sit bearing in mind waist seam sits below waistbandm measure the circumference at that spot and plug in that number for the waist circumference, no ease. I usually use 1 - 1 1/4 in waist band. I have a high waist so never use that as my waist for skirts and pants.

Hope this helps.

Maria

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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-07-30 4:30 PM (#90125 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Thank you Maria. So what do you put in the cf, cb and side waist drop settings? and do you reduce the hip depth and dart lengths by the amounts that you have lowered your waist from your fit garments? ie, if you have measured your preferred position to be 2 inches below your natural waist, do you reduce your hip depth and dart lengths by 2 inches also.
I drafted another pattern for my gore skirt keeping the centre back and sides the same and dropping the front by 1 inch, but it produced a very angular skirt front and a very odd shaped facing, so for the time being I am making a gore skirt based on my natural waist position, but I really would like to crack this and make what I really want in the future.

Caroline
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2015-07-30 11:19 PM (#90126 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
When dropping the waist do not change the hip depth. Do change the darts as desired.

Turn on the fit skirt red sloper and see how your new pattern compares.

I use a woven interfacing in drop waist facing a.
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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-07-31 2:40 AM (#90127 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Thank you Karen, I will have another go.
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Maria in Toronto, ON
Posted 2015-07-31 7:25 AM (#90128 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Veteran

Posts: 132
10025
Location: Toronto, Ontario
There are so many ways to draft depending on the person and everyone's shape and measurements are different. The WG group don't prefer my method but it works for me. I setup a separate chart for skirt and pants. I just plug in the same top measurements as it doesn't matter as I won't be using this chart for tops but plug in my actual measurements for skirts and pants. For instance, my waist measurement where I want my skirt to fit is 37" so I use that as my waist measuremen and no ease. I don't drop waist as I don't have a titlted waist but if you are dropping perhaps you do. Once I select my style I take it into show full screen and measure to make sure my waist does draft to 37" etc. as well as checking other key points, for skirt it would be the hip. I also then shorten my hip based on where my waist sits otherwise I would end up with jodphurs . I find I have more control by using separate chart others may like to use original chart and just drop waist. You would then have to shorten your darts otherwise you would have a too long dart. If you are using original chart and dropping waist then I would think you would have to fiddle with ease setting to make sure waist size is what you want. You would have to use show full screen to measure.

Hope this helps.

Maria
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Maria in Toronto, ON
Posted 2015-07-31 7:27 AM (#90129 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Veteran

Posts: 132
10025
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Sorry I don't know how I got the emoticons in my post I usually don't use them.
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Dancingqueen
Posted 2015-08-03 8:42 AM (#90136 - in reply to #90109)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments


Member

Posts: 15

Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. United Kingdom
Thank you Maria. I will certainly give your method a try, if the official way does not work out for me next time!
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2015-08-03 10:27 AM (#90137 - in reply to #90128)
Subject: Re: Gored Skirt Low waist adjustments



Administrator

Posts: 2951
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Location: Auburn, AL
Maria in Toronto, ON - 2015-07-31 6:25 AM

There are so many ways to draft depending on the person and everyone's shape and measurements are different. The WG group don't prefer my method but it works for me. I setup a separate chart for skirt and pants.

Maria


I think separate charts are a great idea. It allows you to experiment to find what does indeed work for you and can certainly reduce the changes you need to make for tops vs bottoms.
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