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Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar
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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-06 5:13 PM (#89367)
Subject: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Veteran

Posts: 256
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Location: Montreal, Quebec
Hi, I need your advice,
I want to transfer my shoulder dart near the roll line of a lapel collar, I tried this way but as I have to make correction for my front collar I am afraid to disturb my collar fitting.
Any ideas ?
Thanks and Happy Year 2015



(IMG pince d epaule vs col tailleur.jpg)



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studiofaro
Posted 2015-01-06 7:42 PM (#89369 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: RE: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



New User

Posts: 2

Hi Monique

I would not transfer the bust dart (shoulder) into the collar area. It is better used to create shape in your jacket. The small dart you find under the lapel in a lot of jackets is much like a gape dart you would use to tighten a deep neckline fit.
Let me know if this makes sense. Anita
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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-07 12:07 PM (#89372 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: RE: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Veteran

Posts: 256
1001002525
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Thanks Anita to reply, where do you suggest to pivot this bust-shoulder dart as I don t want to see on my jacket?
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cfonfold
Posted 2015-01-07 5:24 PM (#89373 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK
Hi Monique, Since the waist darts come so close to the hem you might try movng the shoulder dart there and distributing it between the two waist darts. Aligning the dart with the roll line in order to hide it directs it away from the bust. Or a side dart might be a better choice and not be obvious to the eye.
Coopie
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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-07 5:33 PM (#89374 - in reply to #89373)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



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Posts: 256
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Location: Montreal, Quebec
cfonfold - 2015-01-07 5:24 PM

Hi Monique, Since the waist darts come so close to the hem you might try movng the shoulder dart there and distributing it between the two waist darts. I never think of that , it is a good idea, I will try.

Aligning the dart with the roll line in order to hide it directs it away from the bust. What do you mean, something different from my sketche?

Or a side dart might be a better choice and not be obvious to the eye.different from my ex.Coopie
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cfonfold
Posted 2015-01-07 9:04 PM (#89375 - in reply to #89374)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Expert

Posts: 1972
10005001001001001002525
Location: Norman,OK

Aligning the dart with the roll line in order to hide it directs it away from the bust.

         What do you mean, something different from my sketche?

Fitting darts should point at, or toward the bust point. From what I can see you have moved the shoulder dart (a fitting dart) so that it  points toward the CF of the jacket.

Coopie 

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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-07 9:09 PM (#89376 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: RE: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Veteran

Posts: 256
1001002525
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Yes ,you are wright, I suppose that is a mistake and will change the fitting?
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studiofaro
Posted 2015-01-09 8:48 PM (#89387 - in reply to #89376)
Subject: RE: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



New User

Posts: 2

I like what Coopie said: 'Since the waist darts come so close to the hem you might try movng the shoulder dart there and distributing it between the two waist darts. ' This seems like the most straightforward approach to me.
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cfonfold
Posted 2015-01-09 9:50 PM (#89388 - in reply to #89376)
Subject: RE: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Expert

Posts: 1972
10005001001001001002525
Location: Norman,OK

Yes. The fit through this area will change.

And also, the new dart is now a more complicated shape-- harder to stitch and to hide.

 It's not possible for me to know which position-(side or waist)  will give you the fit you want.

Coopie

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Beth in Wichita
Posted 2015-01-10 10:47 AM (#89391 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



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Location: Wichita, Kansas
I would use one of the princess darts. the dart is hidden in a seam.
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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-10 12:33 PM (#89394 - in reply to #89367)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Veteran

Posts: 256
1001002525
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Tanks Anita Coopie and Beth, Coopie I mare a half front muslin with a aidé
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monique montreal
Posted 2015-01-10 3:57 PM (#89396 - in reply to #89394)
Subject: Re: Shoulder dart pivoted to lapel collar



Veteran

Posts: 256
1001002525
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Sorry for this email, I thought that I had deleted it.
I want to mention Coopie that I try on a half front muslin with the side dart, you are wright it fits better and as my pattern has a pocket (flap), to end the darts at the bottom of the flap give to short darts. Beth, the princess may be a good idea for a next project. Anita I received mails from your site, it is very interesting but not too easy for me, but I will try the twist blouse and let you know if I have success.
Thanks again for your replies.
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