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Straight Leg Jeans
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StMike
Posted 2014-07-22 10:54 AM (#88340)
Subject: Straight Leg Jeans



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

I finally got the crotch curve almost exactly right with these.  It took a lot of study and a lot of muslins to get here.  I will get some photos up later.  Meanwhile, here is the .las for anyone who is interested.  By "Straight Leg" I mean the side seams are totally straight from the hip to the bottom hem.  To get that you have to do a lot of manipulation in PE.  Straight Leg are the common style in RTW for men.  Hear of Selvage Jeans.  That is when the side seam is put along the selvage.  I like that look as the leg shaping is done entirely on the inseam.

 





Attachments
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Attachments Classic_Pants_jeansJune242014Editfile.las (73KB - 107 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-07-22 6:47 PM (#88341 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans



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Do you have a bit of shaping along the outseam?
How does the fit change when you place the straight of grain along the outseam?
(Not that I'm going to try it on Donn!) Does that give you a bit more bias in the body of the pant? Or not enough to matter? I
I always assumed that selvege jeans were a cutting economy used in industry.
These look good--I'm glad all is going well.
Coopie
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EasilyAmewsed
Posted 2014-07-22 11:08 PM (#88343 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: RE: Straight Leg Jeans


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For 'boyfriend' or selvedge jeans there isn't any shaping on the outseam. Hotpatterns has a boyfriend jean, which I haven't tried yet. Maybe they arrived at it the same way this person did, using an existing pant pattern:

Jedidiah selvedge jean modification  

I'm guessing it's friendlier to those who don't have a lot of side hip definition ( like guys)?
Shelley

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StMike
Posted 2014-07-22 11:10 PM (#88344 - in reply to #88341)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans



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cfonfold - 2014-07-22 5:47 PM Do you have a bit of shaping along the outseam? How does the fit change when you place the straight of grain along the outseam? (Not that I'm going to try it on Donn!) Does that give you a bit more bias in the body of the pant? Or not enough to matter? I I always assumed that selvege jeans were a cutting economy used in industry. These look good--I'm glad all is going well. Coopie

No shaping at all along the side seam below the hip point.  I can't describe how the fit changes in technical terms, but there is a closer fit in the upper inside thigh, probably due to the increase in the bias.  When modifying the pattern in PE, you have to be very careful to avoid adding volume in the upper thigh and crotch.  You have to use negative back and front crotch extension and minimal crotch ease settings to compensate for the shifting of the side seams and grain lines toward the side seam vertical. Crotch curves are a little flatter than in a non straight leg pattern. I end up drawing the inseams above the knee by hand.  You also have to trim the back inseam at the crotch to assure it is the same length or a little shorter than the front inseam.  I read that selvage jeans were originally an RTW cutting technique to save on fabric.  However, with modern jeans the fit is tighter and the increased bias causes the fabric to pull into the thigh and gives the leg a slimmer look.  All RTW jeans I have examined in stores are cut this way.  If you lay them out flat, they look bow-legged. Trudy at Hot Patterns does a nice job describing the straight leg jeans design.  I am going to use these techniques on my kakis and slacks.  I really like how the jeans feel when worn.  Very comfortable and no bulging out seams, which was always the case with my standard PM pants patterns.

 

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lhaase0217
Posted 2014-10-29 6:47 PM (#88976 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: RE: Straight Leg Jeans


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I appreciate the way you notate your PE pattern pieces. Sure does make it easier when you know the proper points for knees, crotch, thigh and calf, doesn't it? Making men's wear is so much different than women's wear. I look at my son while trying to figure out how to make him jeans because he has very large calf muscles, just like his runner dad. Seeing this makes the process seem much less daunting.

Thanks for posting this!

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Cristina
Posted 2014-10-29 9:24 PM (#88982 - in reply to #88341)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans


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Placing the straight of the grain on the outside seam along the salvage of the fabric
is used only for men pants - if you try that for women pants the fabric used is totally lost
no matter you apply textbook solid prooved methods to alter the upper part of the pant
to fit a woman - you'll never get the right fit, you lost the fabric no matter how much you try.
Nonetheless this is the perfect hidden secret to get men jeans, you'll never get wrong
if you apply this method.
I found this the hard way

Cristina
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StMike
Posted 2014-10-29 9:52 PM (#88985 - in reply to #88982)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

Cristina - 2014-10-29 8:24 PM Placing the straight of the grain on the outside seam along the salvage of the fabric is used only for men pants - if you try that for women pants the fabric used is totally lost no matter you apply textbook solid prooved methods to alter the upper part of the pant to fit a woman - you'll never get the right fit, you lost the fabric no matter how much you try. Nonetheless this is the perfect hidden secret to get men jeans, you'll never get wrong if you apply this method. I found this the hard way Cristina

 There is a differet opinion on this as Trudy at HotPatterns.com has for sale a straight leg jeans pattern for women.  She calls them the boyfriend jeans and has a youtube video on her development of the pattern.

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Cristina
Posted 2014-10-29 10:09 PM (#88987 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans


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I lost the battle when I tried that method for women pants, since placing the straight of grain on the outside seam -!! and on the salvage of the fabric!!
is creating the most angled CF - the most biased front rise - and even though I'm not slim, I'm not medium and nearly touch the Plus Size
that method was a for me - I suppose though it's perfect for Maternity pants - in women department.
Otherwise it's extremely precious when making men jeans.
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Cristina
Posted 2014-10-29 10:42 PM (#88988 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans


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Now I see - you let the rise angle the same, but you increased the inseam angle while keeping the outseam vertical - quite inovative
I suppose you used strech denim?
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StMike
Posted 2014-10-30 12:39 AM (#88991 - in reply to #88988)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

Cristina - 2014-10-29 9:42 PM Now I see - you let the rise angle the same, but you increased the inseam angle while keeping the outseam vertical - quite inovative I suppose you used strech denim?

 I have used 13oz. RedLine Cone Mills Denim, 12oz. deep indigo denim from JoAnn, and 8oz. stertch denim from Fabric Mart.  I do not like the stretch denim; all the horizontal seams have to be stabilized with seam tape.  For all the jeans so far, the shape and length of the back inseam is most difficult to deal with as it is usually about 1/2" longer than the front inseam after side seam straightening.  I trim that amount from the back inseam at the crotch which also lowers the crotch curve in back only.  The crotch ease is no more than .5  setting to begin with. Next time, I will move the side seam to the 1/2" or more before straightening the side seam.  Then I can shorten the back crotch extension much less, and I think the front inseam will be easier to match the back one in length from the crotch to the knee.

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Cristina
Posted 2014-10-30 10:51 AM (#88992 - in reply to #88340)
Subject: Re: Straight Leg Jeans


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If you already have a pattern you are content with, you could make a template of the front and back rise
and use it in on the new patterns; you also may try to compare the new and the old pattern
and use PE to rotate the back pattern from rise down - rotate until the sideseam is vertical,
then merge the template of the front and back rise that you know it's already a perfect fit for you.
I suppose that in this case you didn't have another choise
but to shorten the back inseam at the thigh
which also took away a little bit from the thigh circumference.
You know so many things about patterns I'm glad you post so good quality threads.

Cristina

Edited by Cristina 2014-10-30 10:54 AM
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