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New Shirt
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   Wild Ginger Software - Public -> PatternMaster Finished Garments - PublicMessage format
 
StMike
Posted 2014-05-09 3:44 PM (#87754)
Subject: New Shirt



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
I just finished this shirt.  Pattern made with TMx5, Dress Shirt Pattern. Collar was modified for semi-spread.  More pictures in my album.




(ShirtWornFront.png)



(ShirtWornBack.png)



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Attachments ShirtWornFront.png (63KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments ShirtWornBack.png (39KB - 5 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-05-09 5:33 PM (#87756 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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What fun Mike! Great job.
Coopie
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julie w
Posted 2014-05-09 7:25 PM (#87757 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt


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Fantastic! I love how well you have placed the stripes in the yoke and centre back, very effective.
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-05-09 7:34 PM (#87758 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Location: San Diego, CA
Very nice. Great use of stripes.
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StMike
Posted 2014-05-09 7:47 PM (#87759 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Thank you all for the nice comments. That shirt is made of a lightweight polished cotton (100%), and the stripes are woven in with the different colored threads. The pictures do not do it justice. It is a great fabric and light enough for all season use. And the fit is just the way I wanted it thanks to Tailor Made.
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kirsten
Posted 2014-05-10 12:04 AM (#87763 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Mike I love the shirt and the use of stripes. Please tell me more about the collar adjustments, like how this one looks.
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StMike
Posted 2014-05-10 12:17 PM (#87765 - in reply to #87763)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

kirsten - 2014-05-09 11:04 PM Mike I love the shirt and the use of stripes. Please tell me more about the collar adjustments, like how this one looks.

Thanks, Kirsten.

 

The collar specifications are:  2 3/4" collar points, 4" spread, 1" front collar band height, 1 3/8" rear collar band height, 3/8" tie space. removable collar stays, stiff fused interfacing.

To get there I started with TM collar pattern pieces from the following settings:  Collar Style:  Dress Shirt; Collar Styleline:  curved; Point Width: 2; Point Spread: 2;Collar Band width: 1.25; Collar Band Height: 0.25 Collar Width: 2.  I got pretty close to the specs but not exactly in every case.  Still, I was very pleased with the collar and band.  Also, I angled the front shirt center neck edges down about 5/8".  In other words, I cut the center front neck edges at an angle.  Most of my commercial shirts have that feature and it gives a modern look to the collar in front.  It does not affect the size of the neck opening significantly.

Here are the the original and modified collar and band patterns:

 



Edited by StMike 2014-05-10 12:24 PM




(TMCollars.PNG)



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Attachments TMCollars.PNG (4KB - 0 downloads)
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NancyM
Posted 2014-05-10 3:45 PM (#87766 - in reply to #87765)
Subject: Re: New Shirt


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Can you show how you cut the front center neck edges of the shirt? BTW, where did you find the fabric? Love the pocket.

Thanks,
Nancy
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margie2
Posted 2014-05-10 7:44 PM (#87768 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: RE: New Shirt


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Love the way you handled the stripes, Mike. You are getting very, very good at this.
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kirsten
Posted 2014-05-11 1:42 PM (#87778 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Thank you very much for the settings I will be able to go straight to what I want without too many tries. I have also used your settings that you posted quite a long time ago and they work very we'll.

Edited by kirsten 2014-05-11 1:44 PM
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vickys
Posted 2014-05-11 4:15 PM (#87780 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: RE: New Shirt


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Wow! Really neat shirt! Thanks for posting.
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SueC56
Posted 2014-05-11 7:23 PM (#87784 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt


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Looks great! Thanks for all the information.

Sue C
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StMike
Posted 2014-05-12 11:40 AM (#87788 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: RE: New Shirt



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

To answer some questions above:

Here is how I cut down the front of the neck edge of the shirt fronts.

I ordered the fabric from fabricmartfabrics.com over a year ago.

Thanks again for all the good comments!



Edited by StMike 2014-05-12 11:42 AM




(FrontShirtCutdown.JPG)



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Attachments FrontShirtCutdown.JPG (31KB - 1 downloads)
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NancyM
Posted 2014-05-12 1:58 PM (#87792 - in reply to #87788)
Subject: RE: New Shirt


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Many thanks! Necks have been a problem for me--this looks like great advice.

Nancy
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StMike
Posted 2014-05-12 2:37 PM (#87793 - in reply to #87792)
Subject: RE: New Shirt



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

NancyM - 2014-05-12 12:58 PM Many thanks! Necks have been a problem for me--this looks like great advice. Nancy

 

You are welcome.  The cutting line is just a reminder for me on the pattern piece.  I actually make the cut on the finished shirt front after building the plackets and sewing them.  I just take a ruler and measure down 5/8" and slice it off at an angle tapering back into the neck curve as shown in the diagram.  Take a look at some commercial shirts.  It is a very easy to spot that feature.  After reading Lisa's recent WIKI entries, I guess the slice is kind of a dart?

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yarndiva
Posted 2014-05-13 12:44 PM (#87804 - in reply to #87754)
Subject: Re: New Shirt



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Love love love the pocket detail and the back yoke fabric placement. Just may have to copycat this!
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