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new tunic length top
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-06 8:13 PM (#87570)
Subject: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
I posted a photo of my latest knit top. Finally finished after 4 try's to get the tucks and fit the way I wanted. It has tucks across the front and back to about 1" above my waist, but loose below. Not the best placement for the print, but I just barely had enough fabric.

This was the fabric I had planned to use for the Marfy top, but never got a good draft. Thank you Coopie for the settings to get a good cut-on cap when we were working on the Marfy draft.

http://www.wildginger.com/forums/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=493&...

Edited by JoAnndjob 2014-04-06 8:15 PM
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Grandma C
Posted 2014-04-06 10:52 PM (#87571 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top


Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
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Location: Alabama
That is really pretty. I like the style and the color
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-04-07 9:18 AM (#87573 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK
Beautiful top JoAnn! Well done and the fit could not be better. This is a sleeve I'll use this summer myself.
Coopie
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julie w
Posted 2014-04-07 10:11 AM (#87574 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top


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Very pretty!
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vickys
Posted 2014-04-07 10:38 AM (#87575 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: RE: new tunic length top


Veteran

Posts: 241
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Location: Texas Hill Country
Lovely top. Thanks for posting a photo.
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Tall Karen
Posted 2014-04-07 11:54 AM (#87576 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: RE: new tunic length top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 559
5002525
Location: Portland, OR
very nice top Joann...looks like you've mastered the settings!
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sewsally
Posted 2014-04-07 4:40 PM (#87577 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1055
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Location: North of Seattle, WA
What is the secret for the cut on cap sleeve?
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-07 4:53 PM (#87578 - in reply to #87577)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
These are the settings I used for the cut-on cap. Armhole depth 1.5 Extended shoulder length 2" front armhole shape down -3.5 clicks and left .7 clicks back armhole shape down -3.7 clicks and right .8 clicks
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Boomer
Posted 2014-04-08 6:08 AM (#87580 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top


Member

Posts: 37
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Wow that looks great on you - the fit is spot on! I love the sleeves too. Thanks for sharing the settings.

Mary
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sewsally
Posted 2014-04-08 12:14 PM (#87585 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1055
10002525
Location: North of Seattle, WA
JoAnn -- I was surprised at the armhole depth setting. Do you normally lower it that much or just for this sleeve?
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-08 2:19 PM (#87589 - in reply to #87585)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
My default armhole depth is .5 so this sleeve was 1" lower. My other defaults are SP = .25, NP = .25( these 2 move the shoulder seam forward), SH = .25, ( I think I used .5 for the cut-on cap) . The distance from the underarm point (end of sideseam stitching)straight up to the shoulder seam was 7.25. Anything less made the sleeve too tight. The actual opening was about 1" less.
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2014-04-10 5:46 PM (#87609 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top


Member

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Location: Cincinnati, OH
JoAnn, that is so pretty! Well done.
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KinDE
Posted 2014-04-12 9:58 AM (#87616 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Veteran

Posts: 294
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Location: Newark, Delaware
Jo Ann,
Is there any fitting in the tucks or are they just that: even tucks all the way until they end above waist? Or am I misreading when you said it took four times to get fit and tuck correct and the real problem was the fit, not the tucks (except maybe playing with spacing)? It is a gorgeous print and great color on you.

Kinde
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-12 11:31 AM (#87617 - in reply to #87616)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
There is no fitting in the tucks. I started with a basic draft using my defaults for ease and other settings. My first issue was with the fit. I drafted 1/4" tucks (1/2" fabric taken up), but the edge stitching foot I use takes up about 5/8" or slightly less so the bust was too tight. Getting the placement of the tucks was also an issue. My first test put some too far out on the sleeve and I also drafted with CF & CB tucks that I didn't know which direction to press. I ended up with no center tucks, 10 tucks across (instead of 9 with center tuck), closer spacing and drafting the slightly wider tucks. This made the hip & waist measurements bigger so needed to be taken in. Decreasing the hip ease on the basic draft changed the upper body sleeve area for some reason. I ended up using the original basic draft and trimming off the seam allowances at hip and waist and tapering out to original armhole.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2014-04-13 8:16 AM (#87619 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Great work to get a beautiful tunic.
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KinDE
Posted 2014-04-13 2:32 PM (#87620 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Veteran

Posts: 294
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Location: Newark, Delaware
Thanks, Jo Ann. That certainly is a full description of the design of the tucks. I am glad you worked on to get it just right.

Kinde
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-13 8:27 PM (#87621 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
I still can't manage to stand up straight, but I posted a photo of the tunic with the slacks I just finished.

http://www.wildginger.com/forums/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumi...
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-04-13 11:22 PM (#87622 - in reply to #87621)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



Expert

Posts: 1972
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Location: Norman,OK
JoAnn your proportions are just beautiful! Everything just right!
Coopie
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KynaCreative
Posted 2014-04-14 6:24 PM (#87624 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top


Member

Posts: 20

Very nice and flattering!
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2014-04-14 7:17 PM (#87626 - in reply to #87570)
Subject: Re: new tunic length top



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
Thanks for all the kind comments. Now I'm trying to come up with ideas for the other 2 fabrics that match the khaki pants. I want the same longer length and loose fit in the hips.
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