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New Winter coat
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-02-17 10:58 AM (#87339)
Subject: New Winter coat



Expert

Posts: 1972
10005001001001001002525
Location: Norman,OK

Welmoed, I started this coat several years ago! And just never had time to finalize it.

 My latest notes are from 2011.

Sheath

Classic, double breasted

Button size 1.25 to get a bit more cross over

Shawl collar to get the beginnings for the shape to be drawn in PE (I can't leave anything alone)

Shoulder princess seams

I applied the summary settings to my new -And smaller -measurements

There are new pictures in the album.

I'm not quick at resizing the photos

On my old computer I could resize them from the My Picture file. Haven't figured this one out yet.

Coopie

 



Edited by cfonfold 2014-02-17 11:02 AM
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2014-02-17 1:28 PM (#87344 - in reply to #87339)
Subject: RE: New Winter coat


Member

Posts: 2468
20001001001001002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
What amount of ease do you think it has, Coopie?

I'm in the middle of a faux sherpa coat that also has shoulder princess seams and a shawl collar. But now I wish I'd used the double breasted setting.
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-02-17 1:40 PM (#87345 - in reply to #87344)
Subject: Re: New Winter coat



Expert

Posts: 1972
10005001001001001002525
Location: Norman,OK
Chest 4
Waist 5
Hip 4
It's roomy around the body but fits fairly close at the shoulder.
I added 1" to my back shoulder width,(special chart to take it to 15"
Coopie
I don't wear shoulder pads and the wool is very, very thick. And I knew that I would use a shoulder roll in the sleeve cap.
The wool is so tightly woven that it does not ravel.
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2014-02-18 11:00 AM (#87350 - in reply to #87345)
Subject: Re: New Winter coat


Member

Posts: 2468
20001001001001002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Since it doesn't ravel, did you not use a lining or facings? That's what I'm doing with my sherpa.

I've flattened the sleeve cap, too, in addition to lowering the armscye two inches, to give me room to wear it over my usual winter sweaters.
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cfonfold
Posted 2014-02-18 11:51 AM (#87354 - in reply to #87350)
Subject: Re: New Winter coat



Expert

Posts: 1972
10005001001001001002525
Location: Norman,OK
No it's traditional dressmaker tailoring.
I did not use the lining PMB provided, but duplicated the shell pieces, re-cutting the CF as the facing panel.
I split the facing at the button position to accommodate the fur. (Not real of course!) For two reasons-- a very limited yardage and I could not get a machine made button hole through two layers of coating! I used a bound BH and split the facing/fur seam behind it.
I don't flatten my sleeve caps much anymore. I like the shape and look of the upper portion of the PMB sleeve. Although as with any custom pattern you must be diligent about truing all seams to insure a smooth crossing of the shoulder.
I dropped the armscye an additional .5". I like a rather high underarm, I need the visual length and Glory,Glory I no longer wear jackets and business type tops. This is a coat the will only be worn when "ressed up" in cold weather. But not this year I think!
Coopie
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2014-02-18 4:09 PM (#87357 - in reply to #87354)
Subject: Re: New Winter coat


Member

Posts: 2468
20001001001001002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
What a good idea, to use the facing seam for the back of the buttonhole. Is that what you meant?

Michele Obama just wore a gloriously beautiful red wool coat with two buttonholes, on the high-waist seam. In-seam buttonholes are my favorite way to close a coat.

My underarm drop is a total of 2", but I think it will be okay, even though I also like a high underarm, generally. This will be a casual coat.

If it works out I'll feel more comfortable then trying to make a tailored coat with the program. I'm good at the tailoring part, but not as good at making the pattern do what I want it to do, especially with sleeves, as you pointed out in the other thread.
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