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Shirt collar band ease question
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Julie in OH
Posted 2013-03-24 1:14 PM (#84951)
Subject: Shirt collar band ease question


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
What is the rule for the amount of ease in a collar band? I ask because I am getting HUGE amounts of ease when designing a basic button down shirt. The results:

When Neck Depth and Width are set at .25, I get a 16.3 inch neck length (consistent with my sloper measurement). However, I want a closer fit. So, I experimented...

When Neck Depth and Width are set at 0.0, I get a 14.9 inch neck length.

When Neck Depth and Width are set a -.25, I get a 13.6 neck length.

All I really want is a basic button down shirt with a collar and collar stand that doesn't gape horribly and doesn't ride up so far on my neck that I have no neck.

I will attempt to attch my summary and LAS (crossing fingers that the technology works for me today).

Suggestions welcome!

Julie



Attachments
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Attachments Button_Down_shirt.las (38KB - 0 downloads)
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Julie in OH
Posted 2013-03-24 1:25 PM (#84952 - in reply to #84951)
Subject: Re: Shirt collar band ease question


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
The summary would not upload and I have absolutely NO CLUE what the instructions in the bright red letters describing the fail mean -- it may as wall be written in Martian. I did try.

Julie
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Julie in OH
Posted 2013-03-24 1:28 PM (#84953 - in reply to #84951)
Subject: Re: Shirt collar band ease question


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oh, I should probably include that my neck measurement is 12.5, which is why I am trying to figure out the "recommended ease" thing. DH wears a size 17 shirt, so I'm rather perplexed that my shirt collar results are so large when I'm considerably smaller than he.

Julie
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sewsally
Posted 2013-03-24 2:19 PM (#84954 - in reply to #84951)
Subject: Re: Shirt collar band ease question



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1057
10002525
Location: North of Seattle, WA
I think 1 " is about right. Try on your tape measure to see what you like or measure a shirt you like. This would be the CF to CF measurement.
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StMike
Posted 2013-03-24 3:43 PM (#84955 - in reply to #84951)
Subject: Re: Shirt collar band ease question



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 541
50025
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Be sure to measure the pattern pieces (collar and band) where they will ride on the neck. Then adjust the neck settings in the chart until you get close to what you want. For me that works better than fooling around with the neck settings in SE. I use 1.5 - 2.0" ease in my collars, and I like the front to be lowered to 1". Also, be sure to shorten the collar fronts to avoid too much overlap at CF. I shorten those 1/4" on each side. Also I select a wider button size to give a wider front extension. Then I use smaller buttons.

Edited by StMike 2013-03-24 3:46 PM
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Julie in OH
Posted 2013-03-26 10:35 AM (#84963 - in reply to #84951)
Subject: Re: Shirt collar band ease question


Veteran

Posts: 158
1002525
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Thank you both so much!! I have tried the tape measure suggestion and will need to do a bit of futzing with where the pattern will fit on me and see if I need to make other adjustments.

Thanks for your help!!

Julie
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