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I've been sick with a virus for the past 2 weeks, so I've been studying my flat pattern drafting books a bit to pass the time.
I came across some interesting information on darts, which I think would be a wonderful topic for discussion.
It's far too much for one post, so I'm going to post the key points over the next few days (if there seems to be an interest in this discussion).
The rules for darts apply not only to our settings in Style Editor, but also to how we choose to manipulate the darts in Pattern Editor.
I'm taking these excerpts from a book called Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method, 7th edition. By Norma R. Hollen and Carolyn J. Kundel.
"The bust circle encloses the area of the pattern that covers the bust. With a compass, draw the circle around the bust point. Use a radius of 1 1/2" for sizes 8, 10, 12 and use 2+ inches for sizes 14, 16, 18"
I never even knew what a bust circle was before I started using PMB!
Do you agree with this rule? I've come to think of the bust circle as being more dependent upon bust size, rather than overall size.
I've found that a 2" radius works well for me, and I'm a DD size 20 by commercial patterns.
Here is the location for the setting that determines the radius of the bust circle. Jill
Dart length.JPG (9KB - 1 downloads)
|The bust circle is of use when splitting one dart into two or more. There are two examples in my Forum Album. They also help in the addition of extra fullness and working with complex designs. A large cup size often benefits from splitting a large dart. |
Coopie - Thank you for posting that instruction in your album.
A. Fitting Darts point toward the bust point and end on or within the bust circle.
B. Decorative Darts point outside the bust circle and do no fitting. The dart angle must be very small so no bulge is created.
C. Fitting Darts must not point outside the bust circle.
D. All fitting darts must extend to the bust circle. This is the minimum length.
E. A fitting dart may not extend beyond the bust point or apex. This is the maximum length.
F. Both sides (lines) of a dart must be the same length.
G. If one dart has a larger angle than another, the dart with the larger angle should extend farther into the bust area.
H. If two fitting darts are of almost equal size, and originate in different seamlines, then both darts will end at or slightly within the bust circle.
There's still more to come.
Location: Texas Hill Country
|Thanks Jill. This is fun and interesting for me, too.|
|I apologize for giving wrong information. I was working from memory, not a good thing. Since it has been longer than 30 minutes I could not delete my message.|
|I think that in most cases you're right with what you said Margie. I'm going to experiment with making my side dart 1/4" longer, but keep the torso dart at 2" from the bust point. It's a small change, but I think that it would help to get a better dart end.|
Location: San Diego, CA
|I have the 2nd edition from college and have wondered since buying PM if it would be worth it to buy the newer addition. The 2nd edition give lots of drawings of drafts to try but only instructions for the basics. The instructor that taught the class had never done flat pattern so we really didn't learn much. She mostly taught the draping class that I didn't take.|
|I have the sixth edition of this book. I took a night class at the local vocational technical school a number of years ago and this was the book the instructor used. I have found it very useful over the years. Obviously, I need to go back and review certain parts. |
Location: Eugene OR
I hadn't really heard of the the bust circle before I looked into this program either. Also had not considered the bust radius untill it turned up as one of the measurement chart fields.
As to the dart ends, no offense meant to anyone, but I'd wager some of this depends on how you fill out your cup. As for myself, I'm pretty flat, topside, and being a B, not a lot of volume on the sides either so I'm quite conical. I also stick to 1.25 from the bust apex, any closer and there's no movement ease. For someone who's bigger, and is rounded on all sides, maybe a little shorter is better and for good measure, the dart could be curved a bit instead of hard edge straight ( that's also mentioned in the Holland book and been the subject of at least one Threads article). The set measure and dart you stated make sense to me and they are the same in my 3rd edition of the Holland book.
Thank you for pointing out that the shape of the bust, and not just the size, needs to be considered when determining the dart length.
Moving on with the rules for darts...
I. If all of the fitting is accomplished by two darts on the same seamline, both darts extend almost to the bust point or apex.
J. A combined bust-fitting dart and waist-fitting dart should extend almost to the bust point or apex, because the large bulge created by this dart fits better if it goes close to this point.
K. If two fitting darts in different seamlines are lengthened to the bust point or apex, the darts will take up some of the normal ease, and the garment will fit more snugly.
The first two rules here have confused me. I would think that the darts should still end at the edge of the bust circle. Could someone please explain?
Here are some more dart rules.
Coopie has a good example of this in her album. Here is the link to the final step:
M. Vertical darts originate in horizontal seamlines. Make the first crease on the dart line nearest to center front or center back line. Vertical darts fold toward the center on the inside of the pattern or garment.
N. Horizontal darts originate in vertical seamlines. Make the first crease on the lower line. Horizontal darts fold down.
O. Fitting darts may also be decorative, and for decorative purposes, can be folded as indicated by the design.
P. The shape of the wide end of a dart is determined as excess paper is cut from the pattern along the seamline once the dart is folded. (Truing Darts)
When truing darts in Pattern Editor you must choose which side the dart will fold into. Here is a picture from the "True Dart" video to illustrate.
Truing Darts.JPG (35KB - 4 downloads)
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