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Inseam or Outseam First?
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StMike
Posted 2013-01-09 10:25 PM (#84361)
Subject: Inseam or Outseam First?



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Does anyone have a compelling reason why one cannot sew the inseam in jeans before sewing the outseam?  I have the pockets finished and the zipper installed.  I want to do the inseam first because I know it will be so much easier to finish a flat felled seam for the inseam with the side seams unsewn.  However, I have never done it that way and wondered it there are lurking problems that lie ahead if I do.


Edited by StMike 2013-01-09 10:26 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2013-01-09 10:33 PM (#84362 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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I always sew inseam first in any pants.
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StMike
Posted 2013-01-09 10:44 PM (#84366 - in reply to #84362)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

Karen - Tech Support - 2013-01-09 9:33 PM I always sew inseam first in any pants.

 Cool!  I will forge ahead, then.  Thanks, Karen

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2013-01-10 10:56 AM (#84373 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
I just took a look at a couple of pairs of jeans and it looks like the inseam is sewn before the crotch seam.

When I do pants, I sew the crotch seam to about 2 inches from the crotch point.

I then sew inseams.

Then finish crotch seam.

Last I sew side seams.
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StMike
Posted 2013-01-10 1:07 PM (#84378 - in reply to #84373)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

Karen - Tech Support - 2013-01-10 9:56 AM I just took a look at a couple of pairs of jeans and it looks like the inseam is sewn before the crotch seam. When I do pants, I sew the crotch seam to about 2 inches from the crotch point. I then sew inseams. Then finish crotch seam. Last I sew side seams.

 Thanks, Karen.  That is what I was thinking too after I examined a pair of RTW.  I was wondering just how to handle the crotch seam and this helps a lot.  I will get to the sewing this evening.

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SueC56
Posted 2013-01-12 12:28 PM (#84389 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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I used to wonder why Karen said to do it in the three steps she described but after trying various combinations, it "seams" to me that doing the way Karen described makes it easier to fit the sharp corners of the crotch pieces together more nicely.
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StMike
Posted 2013-01-12 1:19 PM (#84390 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
I just completed my jeans to the point of installing the waistband. I followed Karen's method above and it worked so much better than when I sewed the out seams first in previous jeans and pants. This time, I sewed the crotch seam first, finished the seam flat felled, and did the topstitching. Then, I sewed the inseams, serged the seam allowances and completed a mock felled seam inside with top stitching like the crotch seam on the outside. At the point of the crotch seams, the crotch seam is wrapped under and caught in the fold over of the serged inseams. I hit that with a hammer a few times to loosen it up before sewing. That's the way an RTW pair I have was done. Then, I sewed and serged the out seams (no felled seams or top stitching there). The jeans look great so far, and the fit is really nice. I am using a completely straight side seam with all the fitting curve done with the in seam. That takes some work in PE. Next step, the waistband.
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aradia
Posted 2013-01-12 3:30 PM (#84392 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?



Member

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Location: Germany
That's exactly how I sew my Jeans, minus the hammer :-D But I like the idea and I'm going to try this the next time. Thanks for sharing! :-)

Olivera
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barbara
Posted 2013-01-13 11:02 AM (#84395 - in reply to #84392)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?


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using a hammer to pound out the thick areas is a technique worth using. it make the fabric much easier to to sew. It is not for the faint of heart, it takes a real hammer and sturdy table and a lot of pounding.
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Grandma C
Posted 2013-01-13 12:35 PM (#84396 - in reply to #84361)
Subject: Re: Inseam or Outseam First?


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Is it usable on more fragile fabrics that also have thick areas? I considered using that trick on a jacket I have made that is a layer of poly satin, a layer of wool and a layer of poly lining treated as one fabric. the unserarm seams and corners are really thick. I have trimmed the wool out of the seams down to the stitching but some are still thick.
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