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Please help me figure this out
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-11-01 6:57 PM (#83883)
Subject: Please help me figure this out



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Location: Louisiana
I'm trying to copy an old commercial pattern. It's a mock wrap dress which looks like the surplice style in PMB. The right front has all of the dart transferred to the surplice edge and it is lengthened to form a tie front with a decorative buckle. The left front has all of the darts transferred to the surplice edge and 2 tucks are formed. I can't seem to figure out where I should make the point for the dart transfer. The pattern naturally becomes skewed in the process. To make matters more complicated, I am large busted, so the darts are large.

This is the pattern:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-UNCUT-New-Look-Sewing-Pattern-Misse...

What style should I start with? The surplice style seems the obvious choice, but I'm not having any luck with it.

Thank you!

I need this dress finished in 1 week. Plus I have another function to attend the following night so hopefully I can make another cocktail dress for that one too.
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sewsally
Posted 2012-11-01 8:17 PM (#83884 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out



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Location: North of Seattle, WA
I bought a vogue pattern that is similar.
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margie2
Posted 2012-11-01 8:31 PM (#83885 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out


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Jill, can you find a better picture? That one is too small for a lot of definition. I am not going to be a lot of help if you do find a better picture, but someone else might be.
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-11-01 10:11 PM (#83886 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: RE: Please help me figure this out



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Location: Norman,OK

Hi Jill, Let me begin with an caution, you MUST do a mock-up. No matter how much time you have or don't have.

Start with the dress style, ( the front at least shows a waist seam)  cris-cross neckline. Maybe the a-line skirt. THE set in sleeve. Now you could use  the sheath if your fit is good at the waist. but it will be harder to design the skirt.

THE overlap for the skirt must be done either at the table or in PE. Cut the right bodice wider at the left side for adjustment. raise the neckline a bit to allow you to fit it at the cf height  you prefer. I'll bet the back is simple enough. Probably darts at the waist both in the bodice and skirt. Don't be intimadated by the gathers at the side. pull them down and distribute as you like. That will lower the neckline a bit. Won't know till you do a muslin.

Please post again to let us know how it's going!

Coopie

 

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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2012-11-01 10:24 PM (#83887 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out


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Its hard to tell from the picture. I have used the surplice style combined with princess darts and flare to achieve something similar but I chose to attach the tie as a separate piece. If you do have a large bust, the princess line might be more useful for the darts.
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-11-01 10:33 PM (#83888 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out



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Thanks guys! I think that I'm making progress. I'll keep you posted. And even though I'm in a hurry to get this made, I agree with Coopie that I should make a mock up first.
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-11-01 10:39 PM (#83889 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK
EVen though the cris-cross goes all the way to the side seam I think it's best to start there. You will have plenty of room to redesign the neckline.
Coopie
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-11-02 11:23 AM (#83893 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: RE: Please help me figure this out



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Location: Louisiana
Please take a look at this and tell me if you think that something looks wrong before I cut it out. I have an appointment this morning, so hopefully someone can give me feedback before I get back. This is the most complex pattern editor project that I've done so far.

I left the darts on the right front to show how I transferred, but they won't be sewn.
I created tucks on the left front and extended that more toward the side seam.
I tried to copy the commercial pattern as much as I could figure out.
I'm going to draft the left neckline facing at the table.
I'm leaning toward using a yoke style for the back facing instead of a regular one.

I've gotten to where I really enjoy playing with Pattern Editor. Karen's class was worth every penny!!

Jill



(NL 6447 Draft.PNG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments NL 6447 Draft.PNG (18KB - 2 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-11-02 1:15 PM (#83894 - in reply to #83893)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK
Looks like your off to a good start! You may be able to get rid of the tucks underneath for a less bulky look. The muslin will tell.
Coopie
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-11-02 2:19 PM (#83895 - in reply to #83883)
Subject: Re: Please help me figure this out



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Location: Louisiana
Thanks Coopie!
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