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Jacket
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-29 3:10 PM (#83842)
Subject: Jacket



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
I finally finished my jacket and fixed the sleeve problem that I was having. I am in love with how well it fits! I'll be using these settings again and again!

I'm not crazy about how big the collar ended up being.





(Jacket Front.JPG)



(jacket back.JPG)



(layne and me2.jpg)



(Jacket.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Jacket Front.JPG (99KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments jacket back.JPG (86KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments layne and me2.jpg (83KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments Jacket.JPG (93KB - 1 downloads)
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ambro0
Posted 2012-10-29 3:58 PM (#83843 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: RE: Jacket



Veteran

Posts: 192
100252525
Location: Queensland, Australia
Love your jacket Jill! Perfect sewing and what a great fit!! Excellent choice of fabric - love the textured self stripe in the weave, I think it really improves the overall look! The collar looks fine to me but then I'm no fashionista.
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Katy in AZ
Posted 2012-10-29 4:05 PM (#83844 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: RE: Jacket


Member

Posts: 24

Jill, I had a collar like this and I opened the outer seam and reshaped it sewing by hand and then redid the topstitching.

Katy in AZ
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Grandma C
Posted 2012-10-29 4:32 PM (#83845 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: Re: Jacket


Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
5001001001001002525
Location: Alabama
The collar really looks good on you. IMHO I love the color on you.

Edited by Grandma C 2012-10-29 4:33 PM
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2012-10-29 5:23 PM (#83847 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: Re: Jacket



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
Very nice jacket. What is the fabric and ease levels?
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-29 11:06 PM (#83851 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: RE: Jacket



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Thanks everyone!

This is the fabric that I used:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p/EE489/Blue-Ottoman-Suiting

I wasn't sure what to expect when I ordered Ottoman fabric. It has a wale similar to corduroy, but with a completely different texture. It has a bit of stretch to it even though it doesn't contain lycra. The weight was perfect for an unlined jacket. Unfortunately, I couldn't get all of the creases pressed out, as you can see in the pictures. Hopefully that will improve with washing.

I used 1" of ease in the chest, waist, and hips. I drafted 2 torso darts in the front and back, but I only sewed one in the front and back. I used straight side seams.

I created the sleeve problem myself when I drafted a split sleeve with a cuff and I cut everything out. Midway into the garment's construction, I decided that I didn't want that sleeve style and so I changed to a 1 piece set in sleeve. The set in sleeve cap was much too big for the armscye that I had drafted for the split sleeve. I finally discovered that I needed to trim fabric from the lower armscye, thus increasing the circumference of the armhole.

I used the seam ripper on this jacket more that I have on any other garment! I won't bore you with the details, but I'm sure glad that it's finished so that I can move on to something else!

I just scrolled back up and looked at the pictures. I didn't have it sitting level on the dress form! The yoke is level, but you wouldn't know if from those pictures!!

Jill



Edited by JillRN1995 2012-10-29 11:16 PM
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margie2
Posted 2012-10-29 11:44 PM (#83853 - in reply to #83851)
Subject: RE: Jacket


Elite Veteran

Posts: 747
50010010025
It is a lovely jacket, Jill. You can be proud. I love the color on you.
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rebells
Posted 2012-10-30 12:14 AM (#83855 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: Re: Jacket


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
5002525
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Great jacket and thank you for letting us know how you fixed the sleeve problem.
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ursulab
Posted 2012-10-30 4:06 PM (#83865 - in reply to #83851)
Subject: RE: Jacket


100100

..." but I only sewed one in the front and back. "

 

 How do I decide which one to sew? The ones in the middle or the ones outside? 

 

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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-30 4:18 PM (#83866 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: Re: Jacket



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
I sew the ones closest to the center. This provides shaping, but increases the overall ease.

Just to clarify, each front and each back has one torso dart, but two are drafted.

If you want a bit of shaping in the side seams, then you can draft straight side seams and then shape them a bit in PE, or at the cutting table manually.

Jill
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-30 4:18 PM (#83867 - in reply to #83842)
Subject: Re: Jacket



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
I sew the ones closest to the center. This provides shaping, but increases the overall ease.

Just to clarify, each front and each back has one torso dart, but two are drafted.

If you want a bit of shaping in the side seams, then you can draft straight side seams and then shape them a bit in PE, or at the cutting table manually.

Jill
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-10-30 6:10 PM (#83870 - in reply to #83867)
Subject: Re: Jacket



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Please note that straight side seams are only good for a balanced bust and hip. Straight side seams draft to the largest circumference plus ease. If there is difference bust - hip you may end up with more ease than desired for the smallest measurement.
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ursulab
Posted 2012-10-30 6:53 PM (#83871 - in reply to #83870)
Subject: Re: Jacket


100100

Karen - Tech Support - 2012-10-30 6:10 PM Please note that straight side seams are only good for a balanced bust and hip. Straight side seams draft to the largest circumference plus ease. If there is difference bust - hip you may end up with more ease than desired for the smallest measurement.

 Yes, I know, the straight side seams are NOT for me..

 

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