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Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-20 8:12 PM (#83715)
Subject: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: Louisiana
I copied a blouse that I bought at Coldwater Creek. This one fits me so much better!





(Blouse1.PNG)



(Blouse DF.JPG)



(Blouse Back.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Blouse1.PNG (93KB - 9 downloads)
Attachments Blouse DF.JPG (75KB - 8 downloads)
Attachments Blouse Back.JPG (98KB - 2 downloads)
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margie2
Posted 2012-10-20 8:28 PM (#83716 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: RE: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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That is really pretty, Jill.
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sewsally
Posted 2012-10-20 10:38 PM (#83717 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: North of Seattle, WA
Looks perfect.
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Grandma C
Posted 2012-10-20 10:54 PM (#83719 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Posts: 970
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Location: Alabama
You really have a knack for using PMB. I really like the blouse.
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rebells
Posted 2012-10-21 7:47 AM (#83721 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
I like it. What parts of the Coldwater Creek blouse did you copy?
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2012-10-21 11:34 AM (#83724 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: San Diego, CA
Very nice! That collar looks perfect.
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dotmoll
Posted 2012-10-21 10:22 PM (#83730 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Inspiring. I like 3/4 sleeves, they are very practical when working, and look SO much better than a roll-up sleeve.
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-22 10:33 PM (#83752 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: RE: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: Louisiana
Thank you everyone for your very kind comments.

I drafted this blouse in May and partially assembled it before putting it aside for a few months. It will do me good to go back and review what I did in both Style Editor and Pattern Editor since this is hands down my most successful garment using PMB software.

So, here goes...

FIrst, I examined and measured the details that I liked in my Coldwater Creek blouse. Specifically, the yoke, sleeve length, cuff width and length, front placket, and CB length. My CC blouse is a little too small, so I knew that I wanted a little more ease, but I wanted to wear it over a knit shell and I didn't want it to overlap at CF since I wasn't going to button it.

My Style Settings:
Classic Blouse
Jewel neckline
Closure: button placket
Side darts
2 front torso darts
2 back torso darts
Armhole depth 0
CF extension: 2.5
CB extension: 2.5
Shoulder length: 0.375
CB length: 24
Sleeve style: Set in, tapered
Hemline shape: Pleated
Length: 3/4
Cap ease: 0.96
Underarm length: 11.5
Cap Height: - 0.5
Cuff: Barrel
Cuff width: 2
Cuff length: 11.5
Sleeve placket: Bias bound
Collar style: Shirt
Collar styleline: Straight
Collar point width: 3
Collar width: 2
Hem allowance: 1
Chest ease: 1
Waist ease: 0
Hip ease: 2.5

Now for the changes that I made in Pattern Editor:
I eliminated the button placket and I drafted a new one that is identical to the CC blouse
I created a yoke
I eliminated 1 of the torso darts in the front and 1 in the back (This increased the amount of ease)
I extended the remaining torso darts to the hemline, and changed it's shape to allow more tapering at the waist.

The only thing that I will change when I make it again is to make the collar a bit more narrow.

Here are pictures of my altered PE pattern pieces:

Jill



Edited by JillRN1995 2012-10-22 10:36 PM




(CC Blouse PE.PNG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments CC Blouse PE.PNG (15KB - 1 downloads)
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margie2
Posted 2012-10-22 11:35 PM (#83753 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Jill, what fabric did you use?
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rebells
Posted 2012-10-23 7:55 AM (#83754 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Thank you for the details.
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StMike
Posted 2012-10-23 8:22 AM (#83755 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Great Blouse! Looks so professional. I don't understand the inclusion of both front an back darts and front and back extensions? Don't those cancel each other out? At least as far as ease goes? I am curious because I have stopped sewing front or back darts and opted for shaped side seams and ease adjustments instead. I have not used the front or back extensions, but maybe that is a better way to go?
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-10-23 8:51 AM (#83757 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Posts: 466
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Location: Louisiana
Margie,
This is the fabric, which is semi-sheer.
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p/15425/Mottled-Purple-Floral-Law...


Mike,
The front and back extensions are for length only. I created a shaped hemline with the extensions. It doesn't have anything to do with ease.

Torso darts provide shaping that is more flattering for women with a bust - and not just large busted women. If the fabric is allowed to hang straight down from the bust with no shaping, then it makes a woman look heavier. The garment looks like a tent. Karen illustrated this recently with silhouettes. Please look closely at how I shaped the torso darts. I didn't taper to the waist in a straight line. The dart that I used is much more flattering since it allows the fabric to gently curve. I hope that my description makes sense.

Jill
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StMike
Posted 2012-10-23 9:21 AM (#83759 - in reply to #83757)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Now I get it!  That makes a lot more sense.  I never thought of using extensions to add length for hem shaping.  Thanks.
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Grandma C
Posted 2012-10-23 9:41 AM (#83760 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Location: Alabama
Cool lesson in blouse design. Sounds like this may flatter my thicker middle also. I'm going to try it soon.
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2012-10-23 9:43 AM (#83761 - in reply to #83759)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves



1000100252525
Location: San Diego, CA
I use the front & back extensions for shaped hems also. The curved hem in PMB causes a flared sideseam. Using the extensions maintains the hip measurement at the bottom edge.
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Boomer
Posted 2012-10-23 10:20 AM (#83766 - in reply to #83715)
Subject: Re: Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves


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Love your blouse and thanks for sharing the settings with us!

Mary
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