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Dress/Skirt Length
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-10-20 8:33 AM (#83707)
Subject: Dress/Skirt Length



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Here is a picture to ponder.

I will be out all weekend at an Anita Goodesign Embroidery Party, so hope to see some thoughts on this from you when I get back.  Girls weekend in Denver!





(Dress_Length_picture.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Dress_Length_picture.jpg (60KB - 6 downloads)
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anniewear
Posted 2012-10-20 9:25 AM (#83709 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Unless the top row of dresses are made in extremely drapey fabric or belted we all need waistline darts!
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patmiller3
Posted 2012-10-20 9:33 AM (#83710 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: RE: Dress/Skirt Length


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As I have gained weight, I've been tempted to leave waistline darts unsewn so that it'll be more comfortable. I haven't done that, but I've made them smaller.
However, looking at this picture, I need to rethink that.
The third "lady" on the second row looks taller to me because of the length of the dress and the darts.
Pat
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2012-10-20 1:49 PM (#83712 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: RE: Dress/Skirt Length


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Really good illustration of how fitting a garment closer to the body is more slimming.

Wow, the difference the lengths make is really a revelation, too.

Karen, any hints on how to do this for our own design choices, using our own silhouettes?
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Grandma C
Posted 2012-10-20 6:09 PM (#83713 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Hmmm?? I actually like some of the top row for a coat style as I hate to be confined by a snug heavy coat. For a dress I agree that the darted dress do look slimmer but If it was stretchy and clung to close it would show the fat rolls and I think that is un attractive. .
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julie w
Posted 2012-10-20 6:37 PM (#83714 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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I agree that the darted version makes us look slimmer. To make us look slimmer we are usually told to hem a garment just above or just below the knee. On the slimmer silhouette I do like the calf length dress that makes her look tall as well as slim but as the weight increases I prefer the hem just below the knee, above the knee (which I do use and will have to rethink), makes her look a little short and dumpy IMHO.
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rebells
Posted 2012-10-21 8:18 AM (#83722 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
The tent dresses remind me of the waterfall front cardigans that are so popular. Without a belt there is too much volume. The top row looks like housecoats and are fine for that purpose. As dresses the top row would look better with straight hemline sweep instead of flared even without the darts of the second row.

My eyes don't see a lot of difference in how voluminous the models look in the tent dresses except for the wider longest length. It just looks too big.
All the darted dresses look fine to me except for the wider model with the longest length hem. It looks dowdy.
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2012-10-21 9:40 AM (#83723 - in reply to #83713)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
The key is not to make the garment snug, but to skim over the lines of the body. I also have those rolls, but you can use a fitted garment to camouflage them. It sounds counter-intuitive, I know.

Back when I was a WG educator and helped Lisa and Karen with workshops, it was always so fascinating to see users in their fit garments. They often came to the workshop wearing loosely fitted garments, which hid their shapes. When they walked into the room in their dress sloper, almost every single person, no matter what shape their body is, looked 100% better in the more fitted garment.

And we had all body shapes in the workshops, which was partly what made them so effective. It was great to see how different changes made a difference on others' bodies, as well as one's own.
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Marilyn in Oviedo Fl
Posted 2012-10-22 9:01 AM (#83734 - in reply to #83712)
Subject: RE: Dress/Skirt Length


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Hi Karen,

I was playing around and was able to use my own croquis in P.E. and try on the garments that were the examples that were las. files. I also tried on my sloper. I'm attaching the file so everyone can see.

Marilyn in Oviedo, Fl


tried to upload the las. files but it is too big.

Edited by Marilyn in Oviedo Fl 2012-10-22 9:05 AM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-10-22 9:14 AM (#83735 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Send them to me and let me see what I can do with them. No rush - I was at an embroidery workshop all weekend so lots to catch up on today.
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Marilyn in Oviedo Fl
Posted 2012-10-22 9:56 AM (#83737 - in reply to #83735)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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sent the file to Karen, I also did a snip it and put it in my album if anyone would like a peek.

Marilyn



Attachments
----------------
Attachments french_curve_pe.las (5KB - 17 downloads)
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2012-10-22 10:40 AM (#83741 - in reply to #83734)
Subject: RE: Dress/Skirt Length


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Marilyn, how did you create the croquis?

I admit to not fooling around much with PMB5 as much as I should. Life has been crazy here.
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rebells
Posted 2012-10-22 5:45 PM (#83749 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Location: Minneapolis, MN
When I tried that I couldn't get the examples to fit the croquis. Looking at your example to occurred to me that maybe I should have been making the croquis smaller. It wasn't my silhouette but a generic plus size model. Didn't you explain how to make our own croquis once?
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Marilyn in Oviedo Fl
Posted 2012-10-22 6:12 PM (#83750 - in reply to #83749)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Threads issue 125 has the instructions. But simply I took my picture and printed it. Then outlined the figure with a dark line and scanned it into the computer. I wasn't able to change them to a las. file in V5, but V4 and 3 you can. Also Karen had said somewhere to scale the clothes pictures by 200%, and I guess I'm just the right height for her outfits.

I scaled them altogether and then grouped them separatly so that I could move them to try on. Since they are las. figures you can move the points for a better fit.


I see Karen attached my other play toy, A french curve for P.E.

Marilyn



Edited by Marilyn in Oviedo Fl 2012-10-22 6:14 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-10-23 9:06 AM (#83758 - in reply to #83707)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
The other file is too large with the jpeg in it.
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Marilyn in Oviedo Fl
Posted 2012-10-23 9:50 AM (#83763 - in reply to #83758)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length


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Location: oviedo fl
traced the croquis in PE. will try to upload this

Marilyn



Attachments
----------------
Attachments pe_croquis_and_hems.las (71KB - 10 downloads)
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KinDE
Posted 2012-10-24 10:08 AM (#83781 - in reply to #83763)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



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Location: Newark, Delaware

FWIW, in PE I took Marilyn's .las file and used the scale tool to shrink her model of herself by 10% horizontal direction only. I then merged in the file of shorter lady styles from the earlier discussion of sleeves and pants combinations where Karen had also posted a .las file. I think it was called short ladies in the discussion labeled tops with pants. As Karen had explained these ladies were about 20% heavier than her model with the more defined waist.

Magic! I now had a model croquis that fit Karen's short ladies almost perfectly. I really love the PE and cad type drawing tools of PMB!!

Now I have a croquis and can use Karen's advice to try out other PMB styles, like the asymetrical lines and see something closer to my proportions. I'm 5'1'' and a mature figure, I do have a waist yet not full figured.

Thanks Karen and Marilyn.

Kinde

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KinDE
Posted 2012-10-24 5:21 PM (#83788 - in reply to #83781)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



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Location: Newark, Delaware

Sorry for any confusion I causedl. I shrunk Marilyn's croqui by 10% in the vertical not horizontal direcion. I guess I'm vertically challenged in more than one way!! But if fits the short ladies  las file from Karen C pretty well. Remember that Karen also directed any images brought into PE from your patterns in PMB needed to be increased in size by 200%.

Kinde

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-10-24 7:09 PM (#83789 - in reply to #83788)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
I don't think I said 200.

I think I increased the pattern 20%.
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KinDE
Posted 2012-10-25 8:56 AM (#83795 - in reply to #83789)
Subject: Re: Dress/Skirt Length



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Location: Newark, Delaware
Yes, the short lady is 20% heavier--wider horizontally-by scaling, as Karen described in her original posting of the .las.  However, when I bring a pattern image in from my PMB garments into the Croqui file, I must also scale the whole image up 200% before I can compare. Maybe it's a difference in how my images merge into the file in PE. I haven't tried the reverse, to merge the croqui in the opened pattern image in PE. Anyway it is fun to play with the croqui and the pattern images that the PMB program creates.
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