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Simpli Liberty Tunic
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-08 4:09 PM (#83264)
Subject: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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This week I tried on a top that I would love to recreate!  We had gone out for birthday lunches and were just browsing in a few shops afterward, so I didn't have time to really EXAMINE this top like I would have liked to!  Meaning-- pull out a measuring tape, measure and draw pictures! Plus, it was a small shop and that was just NOT going to be possible!

Anyway, I have started the basic designing.  I will be using either an Empire or Midriff waistline (either will have to be redrawn to reflect that upward point).  The neck is the draped neck...a moderate cowl.

The kicker, though, is those cowl pockets!  There is no seam along the top edge of the pockets...the fabric folds down.  There IS a vertical seam on the INSIDE of each pocket edge, as well as across the bottom, but none on the outside. 

And there is flare in the 'skirt' portion.  In PMK, when I select FLARE on the skirt, the sideseam swings outward, but the waist remains straight.  I need for the waistline to curve, too...more like a section of a circle skirt.  So I am thinking that skirt will have to be done manually, too....once I figure out how the pockets will fit in!

So, any takers?  ...anyone up for this challenge?  How in the world would you design the skirt portion of this top!?

BTW, I found these images at a site called AdaresBoutique.com.  The brand is called Simpli...and this particular style is the "Liberty" top.  The fabric is similar to slinky...it is 96% polyester and 4$% spandex.  I plan to use some of my slinky stash to make this top, as well as perhaps that "Cherish" dress and maybe that "Chakra" top!





(Simpli Liberty Tunic.jpg)



(Simpli Liberty Tunic2.jpg)



(Simpli Liberty Tunic3.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Simpli Liberty Tunic.jpg (37KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments Simpli Liberty Tunic2.jpg (33KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments Simpli Liberty Tunic3.jpg (46KB - 2 downloads)
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ambro0
Posted 2012-09-08 5:33 PM (#83267 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Trish,

 I am unable to offer any assistance but will follow this thread with great interest as I've wanted to create a garment with similar pockets/extra fabric but didn't know where to start. Good luck with this challenge!

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Grandma C
Posted 2012-09-08 6:10 PM (#83269 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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Trish, I know this is so far out of my league that I have no business even putting in my 2 cents worth but I will be reading along and trying to learn from your bank of knowledge.

Edited by Grandma C 2012-09-08 6:11 PM
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julie w
Posted 2012-09-09 1:58 AM (#83272 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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SorryTrish, another person who isn't much help but just wanted to say thank you for sharing. I went on to look at some of their other designs at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7dmTZ-fReQ&feature=related and really like their concept of having a style and altering it to create different looks by using different garment lengths and sleeve lengths together with add on layering pieces and hidden buttons and ties. Some great ideas.

I do hope someone else jumps in to help with the pocket design.

Edited by julie w 2012-09-09 2:00 AM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-09-09 8:21 AM (#83274 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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I think the pocket is a rectangle. Think how you would use one to create that pocket.
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rebells
Posted 2012-09-09 8:22 AM (#83275 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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There is a style #427 in the fall Burda Plus magazine that uses some of the same design elements. I haven't got any pictures. The pattern pieces look fairly easy but without a doubt, a PE project. Putting the pieces together is more complicated.
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Marilyn R in IL
Posted 2012-09-09 8:50 AM (#83276 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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The pockets look very similar to Vogue 8813, a Marcy Tilton pattern.
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TessainGabriola
Posted 2012-09-09 12:15 PM (#83278 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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I vote for an underskirt which would be the usual tightish skirt you would be expecting. Then one large over skirt shaped in a triangle - the width of the underskirt  at the hem and as wide as possible by the waist. Sew the side seams at the side seams, and , at the waist, sew the  center front at the waist. The left and right side panels just hang. 

Tessa



Edited by TessainGabriola 2012-09-09 12:17 PM
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-09 4:26 PM (#83279 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Trish, I'll go first--although I really don't want to be hangin out here all by my self!  I might drape this if left to my own devices. On the other hand, in for a penny--- Using your beginning suggestions I only really worked with the skirt. I will look at this in half scale tomorrow. It's been a while since Ive flat patterned something like this.

I took your suggestions and added the shaped raised waist to them. And Karen's as well. Saved in my forum file under your name. I drew in the waist bands and seperated everything and saved again.

I did not write down every tiny process but I think the notes are pretty easy to read. I did save every time I made a major change.  My fullness estimates are probably not generous enough, but I think the basic approach correct. Is there a side seam? What is the back like?

I will post las. files so they can be downloaded and fiddles with.





Attachments
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Attachments Original_file.las (25KB - 16 downloads)
Attachments first_skirt_manipulation.las (18KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments Save_4.las (13KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Adding_fold_lines_for_cowl.las (10KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Pattern_for_first_look.las (15KB - 4 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-09 6:28 PM (#83280 - in reply to #83279)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Coopie, I was thinking along those lines, too.   My initial impression was that the overall shape of the basic skirt piece would end up like this:  \_/ and have a pocket facing attached at the upper edge (cut-on, though, not sewn on).

So, taking your pattern, what if I added the pocket facing as shown (which is really the PMK 'GATHERED' pocket, flipped upside down...10" tall and 12" wide).  This would provide the inside surface of the pocket...then, I would use a 10x12 rectangle as the pocket base...the part closest to the body...and this would stabilize the cowl shape. The top edge of this base would be sewn to the waistband.

I am wondering if that little rectangle is enough support to hold the cowl in place...but maybe it is.

Thanks for taking the time to create this!

 P.S.  You said, "Saved in my forum file under your name."  Are you talking about the pictures?





(cowl pocket skirt.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments cowl pocket skirt.jpg (91KB - 1 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-09 6:31 PM (#83281 - in reply to #83272)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Julie, thanks for the YouTube link to this...cool! 

Obviously I spelled Sympli wrong.  And apparently, in 2011 it was called 'Sympli the Best'!  Now, just Sympli.

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-09 6:32 PM (#83282 - in reply to #83276)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Oooow! I wish I could see the pattern pieces for that!
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-09 7:48 PM (#83283 - in reply to #83280)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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<p>P.S. You said, "Saved in my forum file under your name." Are you talking about the pictures? No they are saved in My Pictures. I just wanted to indicate to others a way to store these files and find them again. I think on looking at a front cut from this pattern that I should start the cowling lower. And the tunic is too long to begin with. And was too generous with the additions for fullness. I should have printed the photo and not worked from memory. Working from a photo or drawing is an aquired skill, But I would really like to illustrate that most of us who perhaps seem to know what we are doing, just jump in with both feet and make mistakes. And often we have come across things in books or research that give us a place to start. For me it was the rememberance of a drawing in the Hillhouse/Mansfield draping book "ress Design. (pg.30 Not an answer to this problem but a hint as to what direction to take. That is the way I would expect the pocket to work. THe shape may be a bit different. </p><p>I'll do another quick trial tomorrow,</p><p>Coopie</p>

Edited by cfonfold 2012-09-09 7:58 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-09-10 6:13 AM (#83284 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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I think the pattern would look something like this.



(Draped Pocket.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Draped Pocket.jpg (9KB - 2 downloads)
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rebells
Posted 2012-09-10 9:51 AM (#83287 - in reply to #83284)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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I'm concerned about copyright issues but on the page it says "... All models are copyrighted. Copying for commercial use is prohibited."  This is from "Burda Style Special, Autumn/Winter 2012, 1/2012, page21".  I hope this helps.  I can't figure it out even after reading the directions several times.


Edited by rebells 2012-09-10 9:54 AM




(draped-front-pocket.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments draped-front-pocket.jpg (34KB - 4 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-10 10:18 AM (#83288 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Is there,perhaps,a pleat or two at the side seam? So that it doesn't all drape from the waist after all? Trish?
Coopie
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-10 6:26 PM (#83289 - in reply to #83288)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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cfonfold - 2012-09-10 9:18 AM Is there,perhaps,a pleat or two at the side seam? So that it doesn't all drape from the waist after all? Trish? Coopie

No, no pleats.  The pocket hangs from the band.  I cannot remember if the pocket reaches all the way up to the band at the sideside or if it entered the sideseam an inch or two below the band, but either way, there was no pleat.

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-10 6:31 PM (#83290 - in reply to #83284)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Karen, are you thinking this is the skirt, from CF to sideseam, or just the pocket, or pocket stay?

When I had this top ON, I pulled the pocket cowl out and kinda pinched it together.  It was straight across its top edge (fold) and formed a folded vertical wedge of fabric that could have been pinched out to eliminate it.  I estimate the size of the pinch was about 3-4" at the top edge...which would mean that cowl/pocket top would need to be 6-8" larger than the section of the waist it was hanging from.  But I haven't exactly worked out my pattern to that degree of 'exactness'!

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-10 6:33 PM (#83291 - in reply to #83287)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Thanks, rebells, I saved the image and will look more closely at that pattern to see how I might incorporate some details! 
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-09-10 7:29 PM (#83292 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Skirt with attached pocket that folds up. Just a general idea how they did that. I can't see enough detail to give more.
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KinDE
Posted 2012-09-11 8:30 AM (#83293 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Here is a link to the German Burdamode magazine with the pattern that is mention above:

http://www.burdastyle.de/burda-style/heft-katalog/jersey-kleid-plus-gummizug-burda-plus_pid_396_6376.html

The photo is clearer, and my google tool bar translates it automatically to English. Translation is not the best: describes as needing fabric with two similar "sites" not sides!! There is also a link to a larger copy of the technical drawing that was posted above. But the site no longer gives access to construction directions before purchase (as it had in the past). On this tunic the edges of the pocket are hemmed (not a fold as in the original garment).

This may help to design a close alternative: Karen suggested that the pocket is a rectangle; this Burda design is a single (not double folded) rectangle just added to the bottom of the skirt piece. I think the pattern was originally in an August 2011 magazine. It is available to download as a PDF if you have access to paying in Euros (3.99E). Some credit cards will let this transaction go through on the internet from the US, others block such charges, presumably for security reasons.

I didn't try to find the pattern on the US Burda download site.

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rebells
Posted 2012-09-11 3:49 PM (#83294 - in reply to #83293)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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The Burda example I posted actually has an inseam pocket but I thought the design elements looked similar to what you wanted.  Using the Burda diagram as my guide.  I would make a mirror image of the skirt at the hemline; extend the side seam down to the depth of the pocket; divide the lower waist into four segments;  draw a line from the lower side seam to an inner waist segment, this will be the top of the pocket; fold the lower skirt up onto the original skirt.





(fold_up_pocket-copy.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments fold_up_pocket-copy.jpg (17KB - 0 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-11 3:51 PM (#83295 - in reply to #83293)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Thanks for the Burda link, Karen!  Now that I have seen both the Burda and the Vogue patterns, I can say that neither one are really very similar to my original inspiration top.  Yes, they both have drapey pockets, but the similarities end there!

I think Coopie's example of creating a flared skirt then splitting and rotating to create the cowl for the pocket is a very reasonable starting point.  But it is also possible that the skirt is a big rectangle where the top edge is allowed to drape lower for pockets!  I'll have to play a bit with fabric... 

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-11 4:03 PM (#83296 - in reply to #83294)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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ok, Rebecca...I think I see what you are saying!  interesting idea...

In your example, I would extend the sideseam all the way to the lower waist, though, so it would be about as tall on the side as it is in the center (I think the original was pretty close to the same).

I am assuming your example is a complete front...left and right.

The issue with this design, though, is that you end up with one giant pocket bag...the whole front is a big pocket.  That is not how the original one was. 

Also, the original had a FOLD at the top edge of the pocket...no seam there, nor seam finish.  And in the original, there was no fold at the garment hem...other than the normal fold-up for a normal hem (I am pretty sure). 

But this would be a cute alternative design!  Thanks...

And you know, if you flip your design top to bottom, the basic shape of your skirt with pocket area is \_/...which is just what I had imagined! ;-)

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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-11 5:08 PM (#83297 - in reply to #83295)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



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Hi Trish, I haven't forgotten... I have a better pattern to post, but have not proved it yet. We are off to the circus right now. My husbands favorite thing in the world. ---there is a "mud" show in town tonight !

Coopie

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