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Simpli Liberty Tunic
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rebells
Posted 2012-09-11 7:26 PM (#83298 - in reply to #83297)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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Coopie - Could you post  your design ideas in jpg?  I am not able to open las files and I assume, this being a public forum, that some nonPMB users may be viewing this thread.
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 11:55 AM (#83302 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK

Hi Trish, take a look at this, it looks pretty good as a beginning in half scale. The pocket seems to lie pretty flat under the front, which was my problem with the lifted approach. Next step for me would be to take it into full scale. And of course all the nitpickey problems will appear there!

Coopie





(Print_file (Small).jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments c.las (5KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments Skirt_6_a.las (4KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments Print_file (Small).jpg (10KB - 1 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 12:03 PM (#83303 - in reply to #83298)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

Posts: 1985
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Location: Norman,OK

Las. is so simple, and most can open and use them. Jpg just takes more steps because they have to be resized.

Coopie

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 2:13 PM (#83304 - in reply to #83302)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee
ok, so in this example, is the rectangular area that I have colored RED the pocket facing that folds down?



(liberty cowl pocket skirt2.jpg)



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Attachments liberty cowl pocket skirt2.jpg (44KB - 0 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 2:32 PM (#83305 - in reply to #83298)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

Rebells, in this post, I showed Coopie's first iteration of this pattern in jpeg form.  She began with a dress, either Midriff or Empire, waist pointed up in front....or, she started with a sheath and then she created these style lines herself.  That part doesn't matter...

Oh, what the heck...I'll post it again, for clarity.

The skirt was separated.  She added vertical lines to slash and pivot the skirt to add flare to the center front area.

Then she drew in some U-V shaped lines to represent the folds of the cowl pocket she wanted to create...these are non-functional...just there to represent.  She split the skirt pattern down the middle of this pocket area and pivoted at the hem to open/widen the cowl pocket area.

Then I started drawing on her pattern...I attached a purple pocket piece, turned upside down, to the top of her pattern to represent the pocket facing...the back part of the cowl pocket.  I should have made it go all the way to the sideseam, but I was just after an idea...not realism.  The square/rectangle above that would be the pocket backing or yoke (as Coopie has called it in her next iteration).  That piece controls the cowl pocket, allowing it to drape and providing a bag that actually creates a real pocket, so you can put hands, keys, etc. in it and they are contained to a smaller area.  There would be a seam across the bottom of the inside pocket (where this rectangle joins the /-\ piece), plus a seam on each side of the inside pocket (where this rectangle joins the slanted sides of the /-\ piece).  There are no pocket seams on the outside.

ok...I'll show you the new one in a separate post.

 





(cowl pocket skirt.jpg)



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Attachments cowl pocket skirt.jpg (62KB - 0 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 2:45 PM (#83307 - in reply to #83298)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

Coopie's next iteration is just the skirt...again, flare is added to the front area.

But this time, before manipulating the pattern for the pocket, she delineated a YOKE area, to represent the back of the pocket bag...nice touch, Coopie!

The skirt pattern is again split where the cowl pocket would be...rotated open to provide the extra width at the top to create the drape for the pocket. 

After dropping down the sideseam a bit, she has added a wide rectangle to the top of this skirt piece to, I think (?), represent the pocket facing...the part that folds down on the inside of the skirt.  This would be sewn to the pocket YOKE piece on each side and across the yoke's bottom edge...and the TOP EDGE of the yoke piece would be attached to the midriff band...just as the central portion of the skirt would be.

Coopie, is there any significance to the little gap in the sideseam between the yoke and the skirt?  Was the yoke rotated or anything?  ...or is that just a product of getting the image once you start working?

Ya know, I really like this one better!  I *thought* I was fairly ssatisfied with the first concept, but I am seeing that the inside of the pocket (facing) should be shaped similarly to the outside, and let the YOKE do the controlling.  yes, that will lay flatter...of course!

What do you think about that upturned area at the hem...where the pivot point that created the pocket is?  Would you actually cut the pattern like that, or would you smooth it out, knowing that you are introducing length that will hang lower?  When I tried ON the top, it actually DID hang a little longer at each side where the pocket was.





(liberty cowl pocket skirt.jpg)



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Attachments liberty cowl pocket skirt.jpg (37KB - 0 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 2:56 PM (#83308 - in reply to #83304)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Norman,OK

Yeah, and it could be seamed on to save yardage. I may have pictures in my album in a bit. I have a new camera and that means new software that I don't know well yet, as well as a new external storage drive to store such. My son seems to think that I am a bit behind the times. Well it's true! I'm not sure about the actual lower yoke shape, that would work out better in full scale. I think.

Note that the pocket fold begins somewhat lower on the side. The rust colored top seems to indicate this.And remember this is just a starting place.

Coopie

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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 3:05 PM (#83309 - in reply to #83302)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

ok, after playing with the pattern, I am thinking that some of the lines need to change in order for the seams to match up. 

I color coded the matching seams...and reshaped the fold-down facing so that the seams would match those of the YOKE piece.  Does this still meet with your approval, or have I ruined your concept?

The top seam of the YOKE is 5.25" long....the foldline (orange)/top of the cowl pocket is 14"...which means that it is almost 9" larger.  That would provide a nice amount of drape!





(coopies liberty3b.jpg)



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Attachments coopies liberty3b.jpg (43KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments Skirt_6_b.las (4KB - 0 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 3:16 PM (#83310 - in reply to #83309)
Subject: RE: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

I can already see I messed it up!  The PINK line of the fold-down facing needs to be shorter than the corresponding line on the yoke...because the yoke comes up higher than the fold! 

off to redo...



Edited by Trish 2012-09-12 3:17 PM
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 3:22 PM (#83311 - in reply to #83264)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

Posts: 1985
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Location: Norman,OK
Well I managed to get photos in the ablum--but they refuse to remain upright! I think a little more practice is in order.
Sorry.
Coopie
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 3:27 PM (#83312 - in reply to #83307)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

Posts: 1985
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Location: Norman,OK
What do you think about that upturned area at the hem

Not much---I would mark the hem anyway to make it even probably.
Interestingly enough in the photos that little hike is there as well. Perhaps it is part of the design concept?
Coopie
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 4:18 PM (#83313 - in reply to #83311)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

Posts: 2309
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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

Coopie, you are amazing!  These look great!

Ok, here is my remaining dilemna...  making the pocket bag and yoke seam lengths match.

I made the yoke deeper, to reflect a 10" deep pocket.  I increased the size of the fold-down facing, so that each side matches the length of the yoke seam (color coded).  However, the bottom edge of the yoke/pocket bag (green) is still smaller than the (green) edge of the fold-down facing to which it must be sewn.  WHERE would you make these equal? 



Edited by Trish 2012-09-12 4:20 PM




(liberty pocketbag.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments skirt_trish.las (6KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments liberty pocketbag.jpg (45KB - 0 downloads)
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Trish
Posted 2012-09-12 4:39 PM (#83314 - in reply to #83313)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

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Location: Germantown, Tennessee

here is what I was thinking of doing...unless you can come up with a better way.

First, I drew two circles to indicate the length of the lines...one radius = bottom edge of pocketbag/yoke) and the other = the pink side of bag.

Where they intersect is where the corner of the bag should be.





(liberty pocketbag2.jpg)



(liberty pocketbag3.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments liberty pocketbag2.jpg (57KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments liberty pocketbag3.jpg (44KB - 1 downloads)
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cfonfold
Posted 2012-09-12 5:01 PM (#83315 - in reply to #83314)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic



Expert

Posts: 1985
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Location: Norman,OK
That's what I would do---but only intuitively!
My math is not that strong. Girl you go! Remember I can't keep my photos upright!
And really ,you'll only know when you get there.
Coopie
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rebells
Posted 2012-09-13 8:08 AM (#83325 - in reply to #83315)
Subject: Re: Simpli Liberty Tunic


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Location: Minneapolis, MN

Wow!  You guys have been busy.  Most of the diagrams have left me confused so I will try this on my own in PE.  As long as I hang onto the idea of the yoke I can sort of see what is going on.

 

Coopie - I just looked at your album.  Now I understand.  Thank you for making a sample.  For me it is a lot easier to understand when I can see it in the cloth.



Edited by rebells 2012-09-13 8:19 AM
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